The single-half rope system??

I was flipping through a rock and ice today and came across a sterling rope ad that mentioned using the fusion nano (9.2mm, rated single and half) and a fusion photon (7.8mm rate half and twin)as a rope system. This is the first time I have heard a system like this before and I want to see if anyone out there is using a setup like this or what your thoughts might be regarding it? It seems like a number of rope companies are coming out with single/half and half/twin rope now making this a viable option, but looking around I haven't seen much information.

I've thought about this a bit so ill start with my initial thoughts...It seems like it would be a good setup for alpine, allowing one to use the single most of the time for speed(only dealing with one rope) but then having the option to pull the second rope out of a pack on meandering pitches...This system would be a bit heavier than a half/twin setup but it seems like a significant amount of time could be saved only having to deal with one rope the majority of the time. It also seems like it would also work well for parties of three.

Here is the link to rope stats if your interested

I don't think climbing with twins or half ropes slows down the climb too much if at all. I don't think you would save any time by climbing with only one and packing the other. If anything it would slow you down carrying the extra load in a pack and having to pull it out to use it and then recoil again. In my mind the main advantage is more options when using these new fangled ropes. Being able to use them as a twin or half depending on what the next picth has to offer would be swell.

I've used a 9.4 Petzl (single) and a 8.3 Edelweiss (double/twin) together. We climbed on the single alone most of the time and trailed the 8.3, but some times we'd use them as doubles. Either way, I see no reason to ever carry a rope in a pack unless you are climbing ropeless.

I don't see any advantages of twins over doubles, except for that you can use thinner ropes w/ twins. Many ropes, including the Edelweiss I have, are rated for use as twins AND doubles - so if you have two, you can do whatever makes sense.

Edited to add that climbing on a sinlge is no faster than doubles, whether your carrying a second rope in the pack, or even trailing one. One could make the argument that doubles are faster, because you don't have to extend out as many pieces. The advantage of a single is that there is less rope stretch so you don't have to worry quite as much about your partner hitting a ledge if he/she falls.

You may find some useful info from this discussion here highinfatuation.com/blog/st…

I use a half rope + single-half rope for cragging and alpine climbing alot. I use a 9.3mm single-half and a 8mm ice line together. The 8mm rope has less impact force on suspect gear and comes in handy for other alpine/aid trickery. The single-half rope provides more confidence over sharp egdes and rappels.

Ryan Williams wrote: I don't see any advantages of twins over doubles, except for that you can use thinner ropes w/ twins. Many ropes, including the Edelweiss I have, are rated for use as twins AND doubles - so if you have two, you can do whatever makes sense.

Twins are great if you have a long rap descent.

Correct me if I'm wrong, as I have very little experience with doubles, but isn't it possible to use ANY two dynamic ropes as doubles? As long as you are never falling on them at the same time (like you would be if using them as twins) the ropes that you are using as doubles do not have to be marketed as doubles. Not that you'd want to lead with dual 11's but there no reason not to use any two ropes with doubles technique as long as they are not rated as twins. No?

Leeroy Jenkins wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong, as I have very little experience with doubles, but isn't it possible to use ANY two dynamic ropes as doubles? As long as you are never falling on them at the same time (like you would be if using them as twins) the ropes that you are using as doubles do not have to be marketed as doubles. Not that you'd want to lead with dual 11's but there no reason not to use any two ropes with doubles technique as long as they are not rated as twins. No?

If you had 2 placements close together with 1 rope clipped to each placement, and then fell......... you'd lose some of the dynamic stretch that helps reduce the impact force on you and your pro.

I did doubles technique using a single 9.4 and a half 9.1 for years. It worked great. I really like using doubles technique in a lot of scenarios. And having one real single rope is nice for cragging days.

GO

Leeroy Jenkins wrote:Correct me if I'm wrong, as I have very little experience with doubles, but isn't it possible to use ANY two dynamic ropes as doubles? As long as you are never falling on them at the same time (like you would be if using them as twins) the ropes that you are using as doubles do not have to be marketed as doubles. Not that you'd want to lead with dual 11's but there no reason not to use any two ropes with doubles technique as long as they are not rated as twins. No?

Yes, you could use any two singles, but... In many cases, both ropes will contribute to stopping your fall. This is likely to put more force on you (although not your gear) than two doubles might.

That, and they'll be a little heavier.

GO