Washington Weather/Route Recommendations

I'll be in Seattle next week for work, but am flying out tomorrow (Friday) to get some weekend climbing in. Saturday's forecast looks good and we are planning to climb Outer Space. The forecast is calling for rain on Sunday. Is there anywhere, in Leavenworth or otherwise, that stays dry (cragging, bouldering)? Thanks!

Dan

Hey Dan,
If you haven't already, you might try posting on cascadeclimbers.com as well.
The East side tends to stay drier and even days that call for some rain, I have friends who are able to boulder in the Leavenworth area without any trouble.

Vantage, WA is a bit farther away and is cragging on basalt columns. The advantage (pun?) is that it's usually sunnier/drier over there.

Pashastin Pinnacles State Park is about 20 min further east of Leavenworth on US-2, and tends to be somewhat drier and sunnier. I've also heard good things about Banks lake, but that's a little further afield to the northeast.

Pashastin, March 2010:

I could only imagine Outer Space will be buried in snow this time of year, yes?

Andy is probably correct. There has got to be a lot of snow up there. Call these guys leavenworthmtnsports.com/ to see if it would be worth your time. If it's dry enough Outer Space is a lot of fun. I have bouldered around Leavenworth in all kinds of weather. You can probably get a fix even if it is raining lightly.

Peshastin sucks and is barely drier than Leavenworth. If you've gone all the way to Leavenworth, it starts raining, and you reaaaalllly want to climb your best bet is probably Vantage. Don't expect anything amazing but there are some fun routes for sure.

On another note, Index has some of the best trad/crack climbing anywhere. it drys fairly fast and is so accessible that you can dodge questionable weather. It is on the west side of the Cascades and so will get wet if the region gets hit with something. It is on the way to Leavenworth so you can stop and check it out on the way.

Hope you have a good trip.

Seriously doubt that Snow Creek wall would be climable now. Probably a ton of snow on top and runoff down the wall. I imagine most of the stuff up Icicle Creek will be wet, except for some bouldering. Frenchman's Coulee (Vantage) would be your best bet.

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking forward to a great weekend!

Eat lots of Oysters at elliottsoysterhouse.com/ .

I would skip the drive to vantage and just head down to smith, its only 5-6 hours compared to ~3 to vantage and the climbing is just so much better

Dan,
Just from looking at it...since I've never climbed Vantage...might be tempted to agree w/ the Redlude97's Smith comment...

That said, I'm new to the area (Ellensburg) and live about thirty minutes W of Vantage. If you end up out that way and need a partner let me know! (ltjroth@yahoo.com)

Jacob

If your really wanting to climb I would definitely agree with Smith Rock. It is awesome. However, if you want to hang out in Washington you should try to spend one day at Index and forget about climbing on Sunday if the weather sucks. One day at Index would be worth the whole weekend without making the 6 hour drive to Smith. Besides, then you can go eat a bunch of seafood and check out the Puget Sound. It is awesome in Seattle.

Vantage is so-so and Leavenworth is good, but will not be accessible (at least what you want to climb). My vote is definitely for Index. Hands down one of THE best climbing destinations in the country.

You didn't list your climbing level but you should probably be a solid 5.9-10 trad leader to get the most out of your trip to index

God I miss Index. Let us know how your trip goes Dan.

I am planning a 7-10 days climbing trip to Washington in September. Can anyone recommend the best guide book, I lead up to 5.8 trad, 5.9 bolts. Am looking for quality routes & easy to find and to maximise a short visit. The Weekend Rock looks like it might be quite good, any comments on this versus the "Rock Climbing Washington" Falcon guide.

I am also looking at a similar time in Smith Rock and have the same question - Weekend Rock versus the 2nd edition of the Falcon Guide - Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park.

Any comments on where you would spend more time?

Thanks
Philip
NZ

Philip Green wrote:I am also looking at a similar time in Smith Rock and have the same question - Weekend Rock versus the 2nd edition of the Falcon Guide - Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park. Any comments on where you would spend more time? Thanks Philip NZ

The 2nd edition Falcon Guide is perhaps the best rock climbing guidebook in my collection, if that means anything.

@ the OP, I still rate Vantage as my favorite (aside from Trout Creek, OR) second-rate crag that I've climbed at. Certainly take the advice to go elsewhere on the West-side, but if the weather is bad and Smith is too much of a drive, Vantage is a good option, IMO.

Philip Green wrote:I am planning a 7-10 days climbing trip to Washington in September. Can anyone recommend the best guide book, I lead up to 5.8 trad, 5.9 bolts. Am looking for quality routes & easy to find and to maximise a short visit. The Weekend Rock looks like it might be quite good, any comments on this versus the "Rock Climbing Washington" Falcon guide.

Phillip, if you know where you are going to be climbing, then an area-specific guide might be better. If not, the Falcon guide is pretty good and covers many great climbing areas in the state.

Based on your climbing ability, both Leavenworth and Vantage should suit you well. But really, you should also consider Squamish in BC. It has loads of climbing for you in those grades.

I saw that you also posted an inquiry about the City of Rocks guide. I don't know the answer to that question, but wanted to tell you that you will LOVE the City of Rocks. Any of the Bingham guides will work fine for the City. It is actually pretty easy to find your way around there.

Here is a really cool guidebook to Vantage if you don't plan on visiting a bunch:

justgetout.net/ClientFiles/…

+1 for the Bingham guide to the City. I know there is a lot of debate regarding guidebooks there, but the Bingham guide seems to work well.

Philip Green wrote: I am also looking at a similar time in Smith Rock and have the same question - Weekend Rock versus the 2nd edition of the Falcon Guide - Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park. Any comments on where you would spend more time? Thanks Philip NZ

not even a comparison- the 2nd edition of the Watts book is a high water mark for climbing guidebooks. It's amazing and worth every penny.

Thanks for great replies, yes keen to get City of Rocks, Squamish was on the list also to but can only do so much driving, will be toss up between Squamish and CoR as 3rd destination.

Phil

Philip Green wrote:Thanks for great replies, yes keen to get City of Rocks, Squamish was on the list also to but can only do so much driving, will be toss up between Squamish and CoR as 3rd destination. Phil

If you want long routes, then Squamish is probably where you should go. If you want tons of cragging, then go to the City. The weather in September is more reliable in the City also. But really, it is a false choice because you will have an awesome time in either place.