New quarks vs old for a new ice climber

Hey, brand new here. Been rock climbing for a while but just getting into ice climbing this year. I’ve got a set of boots and crampons and am just looking for a set of ice tools.

I really like the feel of the new quarks. I’ve also tried the nomics (a bit more than I’d like to spend) and the vipers which I didn’t like as much as the quarks.

I see that the old quarks can be had pretty cheap but I’ve never climbed with them. Was wondering if the extra money for the newer model is worth it for a guy like me.

I live in the twin cities and would like to get out climbing every other weekend. They would be used only for vertical ice. I don’t anticipate any lead, multi pitch or drytooling.

you should anticipate. ice would be pretty fuckin' boring if you only toproped every other weekend, but I guess that's the price you pay living in the twin cities.

there you go with my completely unhelpful post. you're welcome.

Go with the newer one. It has some features (trigger rest, modular head weights), that will make it a little more customizable.

pT

If your mind is set on Quarks than ether one will be fine for what you plan on doing .

However if you ever have any plans to climb steep ice n have fun doing it I would start looking for a sale on Nomics, they can be had for a few dollars more than the new Quarks if ya just shop around.

the new ones are less ugly.

id go with cassin-x all mountain though over nomics. save yourself some $$$

wisam wrote:Hey, brand new here. Been rock climbing for a while but just getting into ice climbing this year. I’ve got a set of boots and crampons and am just looking for a set of ice tools. I really like the feel of the new quarks. I’ve also tried the nomics (a bit more than I’d like to spend) and the vipers which I didn’t like as much as the quarks. I see that the old quarks can be had pretty cheap but I’ve never climbed with them. Was wondering if the extra money for the newer model is worth it for a guy like me. I live in the twin cities and would like to get out climbing every other weekend. They would be used only for vertical ice. I don’t anticipate any lead, multi pitch or drytooling.

I have the old quarks and love 'em. That being said I'd recommend the new ones for two reasons. One, and this is really the only one you need, the old quarks use the Cascade Pick which Petzl no longer lists on their website and despite what they have said I don't see them manufacturing more. You'll find plenty of websites that list them as "out of stock" and a few websites, EMS, that have them. Your probably don't want to buy a tool that you won't be able to buy picks for. The new quarks take a different pick.
Second, the larger pommel spike with a biner sized whole is a nice feature compared to the old quarks which can't accomodate a biner unless you tie a loop of spectra though it.
As far as going with a leashless tool straight off, IMHO I think the quarks are a great all aroudn tool that can handle some casual mixed and steep ice.

iceman777 wrote: However if you ever have any plans to climb steep ice n have fun doing it I would start looking for a sale on Nomics, they can be had for a few dollars more than the new Quarks if ya just shop around.

Agreed. Ice can get pretty boring if you stay on moderates...

I know they are not your first choice, but I do have brand new (less than 3 pitches) vipers that I would be willing to sell.

Josh Brown wrote: I have the old quarks and love 'em. That being said I'd recommend the new ones for two reasons. One, and this is really the only one you need, the old quarks use the Cascade Pick which Petzl no longer lists on their website and despite what they have said I don't see them manufacturing more. You'll find plenty of websites that list them as "out of stock" and a few websites, EMS, that have them. Your probably don't want to buy a tool that you won't be able to buy picks for. The new quarks take a different pick. Second, the larger pommel spike with a biner sized whole is a nice feature compared to the old quarks which can't accomodate a biner unless you tie a loop of spectra though it. As far as going with a leashless tool straight off, IMHO I think the quarks are a great all aroudn tool that can handle some casual mixed and steep ice.

Not to hijack, but do you know if the old quarks will accept the new picks?

I know the first generation nomics will take the new picks securely. You'll actually HAVE to use the old picks if you also want to fit the old nomics with a cold thistle hammer (or mill the old style picks down, which doesn't make me feel warm and fuzzy).

The old Quarks have better swing weight and balance than the new ones. The old ones' Cascade pick cleans from the ice significantly easier than the new ones' Ice pick. The new ones have a grip that is better suited to leashless climbing. And AFAIK the new ones don't come with any sort of leash, so you're "expected" to climb leashless. Call me old school, but for leads at my limit, I still use leashes.

My suggestion - get the new ones, add pick weights, and figure out how to de-tune the teeth on the pick so it cleans easily. You should never have to do the "Black Diamond Shuffle" (pump the tool up and down a few times to loosen it in the ice, slide hand up to near the head, lift the tool up out of the hole, jiggle your hand back down to the grip).

OR - spend $275-325 on a pair of the old ones with picks in VG-EXC shape. If you only climb occasionally and are careful not to swing into rock, those picks can last 3-4 years easily. Keep your eyes open for replacement picks in that time, or simply sell the tools when they wear out.

I've climbed on both the old quarks and the new quarks, and I really love the new ones. While the cascade picks were undoubtedly a better designed water-ice pick, with a little modification, the Ice pick works just fine. Add pick weights and waterproof electrical tape to the upper shafts, and you've got a tool capable of getting you up WI5 or harder, while still being able to be used in a more traditional setting.

I currently own the new quarks, and I've had nomics in the past. I love nomics, but I have a hard time getting them to fit my hands. The quarks (with the adjustable trigger) do wonderfully in that respect.

I've led up to WI4 in the quarks, and top-roped stuff a lot tougher. No wrist pain, and I don't pump out like I used to on my nomics.