The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

I'd also post on 14ers.com Lots of people from that site go to the Long's parking lot, maybe one of them found it.

Colin Simon wrote:that long walk back was really horrible. In my hallucinating stupor I left my pack in the parking lot.

Colin- saw the pack next to the bathroom around 6:30 this morning. Other cars in the lot so I didn't think much of it. Congrats on the ascent.

Took a walk around the Chasm Lake cirque this morning. A few notes on conditions:
-Ice above Peacock Pool looks big and blue.
-The small flow below Lady Washington was nice but short.
-Martha was warm with little to no ice but ok snow. Climbed most without gloves on. No ice on crux.
-Lambs slide is in awesome shape.
- Came down the loft. The high elevation ice is really nice... but in agreeance with Eli, its a long walk.

I changed the title by your requests. Next year, the 1st one to start this should try 2012-13, maybe.

The route was very thin on the lower pitches. Ended up having to do a lot of mixed. The final pitch had thick ice.

Leo Paik wrote:I changed the title by your requests. Next year, the 1st one to start this should try 2012-13, maybe.

You're asking ice climbers to think. Good luck with that.

OW!

Black Lake area climbs are in FAT for those who are willing to navigate through the tree fall.

But, be prepared to add some time to the approach. It's crazy how many trees are down. I think the hardest move of the day was the no-hands high-step onto and over one tree from a sit start underneath the tree laying next to it.

nice work Colin! impressive

Climbed Stairway to Heaven 1/8/12. Forgot "Anker" ice screwholder and an old stubby. If you are in the neighborhood and would like some beer, I would love to get it back! It's on the ridge next to the climb just above the climbers trail. It is gray with a rock on it, just above the bush in this picture (Center Left). Cheers

Latest update on Martha's Couloir was 3 days ago - good snow and no ice.

Anything more recent? I'm going there on Wednesday and just trying to get an update.

Eli, can you see it from you window?!

John Fatseas wrote:Latest update on Martha's Couloir was 3 days ago - good snow and no ice. Anything more recent? I'm going there on Wednesday and just trying to get an update. Eli, can you see it from you window?!

Let us know how it goes, I'll be headed up there this weekend.

Can't see Martha from this angle, but the snow has melted quickly on south aspects the last few days, and with up to 10" of new snow in the Longs Cirque (not yet blown off by the wind!!), it's likely that some melt-freeze has helped out that warm little cleft on the lady.

Im pretty new to ice and im looking for some top rope routes. Anybody have any suggestions for ice in the denver/boulder/RMNP area? Does little eiger area in CCC have ice? Im looking for somewhere that i could get a few routes in on Saturday (1/14/2012). Thanks

Colin, nice send! My brother and I were the guys y'all saw in the parking lot. Though it was a nice day to be on Long's, I can't imagine climbing the Diamond in that weather.

These conditions were from 1/6 (hence before the snow Eli mentions), so take them with a grain of salt, but here goes...

The Flying Dutchman had mostly hard snow the whole way. At the crux step, the ice was not continuous and didn't look well bonded, so we climbed the rock about 20 feet to the left. The rock was great with big holds. It felt maybe like 5.4 in spots, though hard to judge with crampons and gloves. The steeper section was longer than the normal route, about 80 feet.

The traverse to the Homestretch from the Loft was quite dry, with more talus scrambling than snow climbing. The Homestretch had some icy spots, though all were easily avoided. We didn't wear crampons from the Loft to the top.

After descending the rocky section of the N face, the small amount of snow was hard and frozen. The slog back to the car was long, as usual. We didn't carry or need snowshoes, even on the winter shortcut, as there was a packed trail.

Rigggs, please use the Partner Finder or CO Partner thread, this thread is for conditions

S Denny wrote:Rigggs, please use the Partner Finder or CO Partner thread, this thread is for conditions

I have a partner to climb with and I asked about the conditions of CCC.

Rigggs24 wrote: I have a partner to climb with and I asked about the conditions of CCC.

Loch Vale in RMNP is probably you're best bet for setting up some TRs on the Front Range. Clear Creek was largely dry the last time I drove by.

my apologies Rigggs, didn't read right, sorry

as for CCC, rumor is someone messed with the farming system and it prolly won't come in this year naturally.

Thanks guys. I will probably check out Loch Vail. Too bad about CCC. Hopefully it comes in later this season.