Climbing Baboquiveri (in winter)

So my girlfriend/climbing partner and I were thinking of trying Babo this winter. I was hoping to talk to someone here has done it (in winter or otherwise) and that we might be able to pick your brain for a few minuets. Shoot me a PM if that sounds like you.

Or if you have done some other peak here in SoAZ that you would recommend I would love to hear about it. We are looking for something that will involve some snow/ice travel/climbing/scrambling, and technical climbing.

Thanks,
Nick (and Kristina)

cool temps should be good for the hike
prolly a lot of ice on the approach and descent
se arete is so cool

I would wait for a couple warm days

elephants head west gully is also a cool summit
bring a helmet
cheers

What route were you planning on. I have been up the west approach which is a great trail and summited using the great ramp and ladder pitch. While on top I ran into some people that used the east approach and said the trail is very difficult to follow. Also the ladder pitch faces NW so it never sees any sunlight. Good Luck.

Not 100% sure which route. Probably Forbes route or SE arete. We are kinda looking for an alpine/ mountaineering type experience so we are hoping to have to deal with some snow and/or ice and hopefully get/have to use the crampons and axes we were just given.

You might consider doing the Forbes Route on your first trip up. This route is also the descent, and it can be a little tricky to find if you haven't been there before.

Nick... where are you planning on doing this mountaineering you are training for ? Any snow/ice conditions you encounter on Babo are unlikely to simulate the conditions you will find in the northern Rockies or Sierra Nevada.

Not too sure if Skine meant elephants dome if he did thats closed down to access issues.

As for Babo I did the South East Arete which was a really fun climb/scramble. Though I doubt its going to covered in much snow or ice, I stil recommend itthe summit is unbeatable.

not elephants dome but eleph. head south of green valley
if you wanna use some axes and such, maybe southern arizona is not the right place
was just in flagstaff/ sedona area, got a fair amount of snow
i hear valdez alaska is also a great spot for crampons
cheers

If you time it right, Babo will be a pretty rowdy winter adventure that needs ice tools. I spent the night up there a couple weeks ago and there were some snow patches below and above the ladder pitch. We had a nice bbq on top. If you want snow, hike in from the west side after a couple good storms and there will be snow on the great ramp and on the ladder pitch as they don't see much sun. The SE arete will not be a snowy endeavor unless you head up there right after a storm. The great ramp would be a good intro to winter climbing if it is filled with snow (although it might be super easy to posthole) and the ladder pitch, and the gulley above it, could be pretty exciting when icy. With no experience, you might really get the blood pumping depending on the conditions even though it is not that steep besides the ladder pitch. I think this could be a good primer for some Sierra peaks that can sometimes involve moderate mixed terrain (Russel arete, Ritter north face, Palisades, etc..). The thing is, it is hard to know what is going on in the north facing Babo gulleys without getting up there.

Thanks for all the replies. Obviously AZ is not the best place for this but trying to make do with what we have so that we are not 100% green the first time we run into snow/ice on a bigger adventure or waste the time and money involved in getting to a bigger adventure and being totally unprepared for it and being forced to bail. It seems like things are going to be very condition dependent so we are going to go in with a flexible plan. If we end up climbing a completely dry SE arete we still wont be disappointed.

Does anyone have other suggestions for places in So/Central AZ or SW New Mexico for us to try?

The ladder pitch can be downright gnarly when it's icy--no pro either. You might want to train in the Sierras or Rockies for Babo!

Go up there today. It will be good.

No offense to you and your partner but why do I get the feeling we are going to being hearing about a rescue and/or accident report in the near furture. Not wishing it upon you guys or anybody for that matter but I'm sure I'm not the only thinking it. Whatever you guys choose to do, best of luck to you and be safe.

+1 ryan

Consider taking a NOLS snow/ice course in the Wind Rivers. Or spend a few weeks in a fairly benign alpine environment like the Snowy Range in late June / early July. There you could learn snow traverse, glissade, self-arrest and other basic mountain travel skills.

mountainproject.com/v/10619…

hey Nick, make sure you read up on proper S.AZ bolting/chopping ethics and what color slings to use for a proper ascent. mountainproject.com/v/south…
also, you need to apply for a permit from the sonoran desert alpine climbing coalition and since it is your first time climbing and you had better send out some invites to the guys who make the rules so they can come along and make sure your climbing it right. hope that helps

You mean like the hikers who needed a rescue from thimble peak on Saturday because it started snowing? Don't hold your breath waiting to hear about a rescue for us. Or better yet do hold your breath. Hahaha. Thanks for the constructive post BTW.

NickMartel wrote:hopefully get/have to use the crampons and axes we were just given.

Thread shoulda ended there.

If you don't all ready know the answer to your question you obviously aren't ready to be up there. Not familiar with the area and heading off on an adventure that impresses the locals but taking gear that you don't know how to use because it was just given to you. Nice! Good luck... it sounds like you're gonna need it. Can't wait to read the TR!

Experience is getting into trouble and getting back out again.

That said, there's no place in Arizona to get the kind of experience the OP seems to be seeking. jbak nailed it.

Don't know who said it but it's as true in life as it is in climbing..."good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from bad judgement"

Bear Canyon, Mt Lemmon, AZ 12/8/2011.

Nice! TRing 30ft verglassed boulder problems. Looks like a hell of a good time!