Joshua Tree: Well protected 5.11's

Headed to Joshua Tree in early December. Looking for some well protected 5.11's to get on. Any recommendations?

Rollercoaster, 5.11-, is highly recommended. It is right by Rollerball, a popular 5.10 slab/roof handcrack in Steve's Canyon. The upside is making all the low lifes who just toprope it after leading Rollerball look like chumps for passing up such a well-protected lead (for JTree).

Coarse and Buggy, 5.11-, well-protected (if you have a good selection of small cams and nuts) and very classic thin crack climbing. It will be shaded later in the day but is right by the road.

Heart of Darkness is an arguable 5.11 (some say 5.10+), that is nevertheless well-protected. It will probably be pretty darn cold as it is located in a shaded corridor. Perfect for lady hands.

Alf's Arete, 5.11a, is reasonably protected bolted face climbing.

Jane's Addiction is well-protected sport climbing.

Other ones I have my eyes on are Left Ski Track (although I hear pro can be dicey down low?), Jumping Jack Crack (5.9 ow to 5.11 crack), Wangerbanger, Papaya/Banana Cracks, Hot Rocks (maybe just TR - pro is thin), Be-Bop Tango (well-protected sport), Big Moe (well-protected by TR)....

That would get you started, anyway, I haven't done that many 11's in JTree. Pay attention to the aspect of these climbs, it will probably be chilly for shaded climbs.

Wangerbanger on the Rusty Wall has perfect pro. I remember Winds of Whoopy protecting well also. Its only 10c or d, But make sure to do Rubicon. Double rope technique reccomended. Oh yeah, Hercules also has perfect pro (but very pumpy)

Hardhat n Hexes wrote:Wangerbanger on the Rusty Wall has perfect pro. I remember Winds of Whoopy protecting well also. Its only 10c or d, But make sure to do Rubicon. Double rope technique reccomended. Oh yeah, Hercules also has perfect pro (but very pumpy)

I agree, the list of quality 5.10 climbing is also extensive. Besides Rubicon, Clean and Jerk, Illusion Dweller, Bird of Fire, and Tax Man are stellar, well-pro'd crack climbing that should not be missed.

I'd suggest just doing the most highly rated climbs at whatever grade and start off slowly if you're not used to the Joshua Tree style. It might take a couple of days of tuning up.

Crime of the Century
Wangerbanger
Oyster Bar
Path of the Oyster
Janes Addiction
Heart of Darkness
Wedlock
More Monkey than Funky
Vector
Scary Poodles
Misfits
Overnight Sensation
Morongo Man
Hercules
Silent but Deadly
Cleared for Takeoff
Bebop Tango
Coarse and Buggy

That should get you started.

John Wilder wrote: If you're climbing .11s in Josh, just solo the bottom of Rubicon and have your belayer stand below the crack proper. Or you can boulder the .11ish direct start. Either way its not really worth messing around with 2 ropes for 10 feet of vertical 5.6 and 30 feet of horizontal 5.easy.

When I did it I had two ropes and two belayers! I wouldn't do that now, but it sure is fun to have done that maneuver at least once. I am your waste of climbing resources, mountainproject!

Options D) and E) are to back clean pro as you go along, and just sling your placements long in the traverse and beginning of the finger crack (a buddy of mine did that and said the rope drag issue was non-existent).

Russ Walling wrote:As for Rubicon... If you are not up to the traverse without pro, pro the thing as needed, get to the actual start of the vertical crack, pop in a fake anchor, tie off, pull your rope through the traverse, and then start fresh from right there with your belayer directly below you. Follower can clean the traverse or you can grab the stuff when you rap off.

Wow, option F) arrives. Lotsa ways to skin this one. What it really shows is that we need an intermediate anchor installed after that traverse. The bodies are piling up and latest reports are that the funeral pyres at Rubicon and Double Cross are being used as smoke signals for inter-park communications.

Typical of the internet, we are belaboring a 5.10 in a 5.11 thread ;). Quick, Allison, start a JTree 5.10 thread now! NOW!

I think the ratings are generally comparable at those three areas once you get used to the rock at Joshua Tree.

I know that alot of people recommend soloing the start and traverse of Rubicon. That's fine for the leader if he/she is comfortable with that. I don't like to force that risk on the second.

Russ Walling wrote: To muddy the thread some more.... second climbs on the TR, in which the rope is from above, not off to the side.

I think he's worried about the second cratering due to the first piece being high and way left.

I usually pull the rope and throw it back down on Rubicon. Minimal swingage either way. Also, since it's .10b it shouldn't even be on this thread.

Don't forget Grit roof. Where have all the cowboy gone is only 10d but worth it.

Hot Rocks

Check this link out...

joshuatreeclimb.com/members…

Way of Life and Physical Graffiti are both totally bolt protected with super safe falls at the crux, with short approaches and right next to each other.

Lots of good suggestions, but I'm kind of surprised by the suggestion of Hot Rocks, which is easy to TR but not the best lead since the pro isn't too great at the crux. Maybe the advent of smaller camming devices has helped here but caveat emptor.

Also, while Coarse and Buggy pros pretty well, my recollection is that part of the crack in the upper dihedral (where it curves right near the top), is kind of flaky and loose and a fall in the wrong spot seems like it could pop out a cam. Since lots of people seem to get befuddled by the last set of moves, you might want to feel that one out first.

Lastly, Scary Poodles is, well, scary because you're kind of run out at the crux. I still have to sack up and finish that one.

Fat Dad wrote:Lots of good suggestions, but I'm kind of surprised by the suggestion of Hot Rocks, which is easy to TR but not the best lead since the pro isn't too great at the crux. Maybe the advent of smaller camming devices has helped here but caveat emptor. Also, while Coarse and Buggy pros pretty well, my recollection is that part of the crack in the upper dihedral (where it curves right near the top), is kind of flaky and loose and a fall in the wrong spot seems like it could pop out a cam. Since lots of people seem to get befuddled by the last set of moves, you might want to feel that one out first. Lastly, Scary Poodles is, well, scary because you're kind of run out at the crux. I still have to sack up and finish that one.

Hot Rocks - The pro, while not obvious is actually fairly good. Purple BD's and/or Red Metolious.

Coarse and Buddy - If you use cams, you'll screw the pooch. Nuts give your fingers room. As Vogel has noted, they didn't think much of it at first due to the fact that it was scaly as hell. In general, it has cleaned up nicely.

Scary Poodles is actually easy to protect at the crux, if by the crux you mean the hard move right towards the top. The middle section, by contrast, is a bit fiddly.

Russ Walling wrote: When did it get upgraded? Industry standard for 10a

If you've got man hands/fingers it can be a bit harder.

Simon Hatfield wrote:Way of Life and Physical Graffiti are both totally bolt protected with super safe falls at the crux, with short approaches and right next to each other.

If by right next to each other you mean completely different formations in the same general area, then yes, they are right next to each other.

Most budding 5.11 leaders like a #2 BD before the first bolt on WoL.

Murf wrote: If by right next to each other you mean completely different formations in the same general area, then yes, they are right next to each other.

He's right of course, if needlessly aggressive. My point was that if you're climbing one, the other is right there, and both are safe and worth getting on.

Someone decked and died on Coarse and Buggy BITD (early '90's?). Small pro at the start, and bouldery landing.

caughtinside wrote: Larry, you've got that confused with Double Cross. The bolt there is in for the season, so it's a good warmup on the way to Josh 5.11.

bolt? on double cross or on C&B? I haven't been on either for a couple seasons now. Is this a new addition? Would be a bit of a shame if either had a bolt, i think.