Looking for info on North Carolina

Scott O wrote: Are we? A low mileage 5.6 leader probably shouldn't be down in the gorge with a first-timer in December. It's going to be cold as hell, you're unlikely to be able to call for help, and the route finding can be adventurous. Did I mention it's going to be cold as hell? I don't think anyone is trying to make Moore's sound scary. It's just going to be really cold and not fun. Coming from Raleigh and only leading 5.6, that pretty much leaves you with Table Rock (if it's warm), Stone, Pilot, or the Bald.

I agree with Scott O. I remember learning to climb in NC. I had done 5.10 sport climbs before and still wandered around aimlessly on 5.6's in the gorge and at Moore's. NC isn't scary really, but it can turn scary pretty fast if you don't bring your A game. Plus... Linville and Moore's are not December areas... unless you climb 5.11 and enjoy running it out on the Fire Wall.

Go to Table Rock or Stone.

TarikaM wrote:Thanks for the advice. I've been looking at pictures and routes and the climbing in NC looks awesome, but I'm starting to second guess how much of it I can do with a first timer. It wouldn't be very enjoyable for me to be restricted to just the one easy climb in the area. Maybe it makes sense to wait until spring to take her to the Gunks where there's a plethora of 5.2s and 5.3s. I guess I'm also a little thrown by the ratings. Most of what I'm looking at in NC, TN and other climbing destinations seems to be in the 5.7, 5.8 and up range. That's probably out of my leading range at the Gunks, and I've always heard that Gunks climbs are rated harder, but it surprises me that there would be that much of a difference. If I'm comfortable leading 5.6s at the Gunks does that mean I could lead up to 5.8/5.9s elsewhere, or am I just not cut out to lead in those areas?

There are good 5.6-5.7 routes in NC but most of them are adventurous and more serious than the grade might imply. Linville is pretty out there for the east coast.

But yea, most of the climbing in this part of the countr starts around 5.8. That's just the way the rock is here... especially the sandstone.

I'd say taht Looking Glass is your best bet, but I hesitate to send 5.8 climbers up the Nose if I don't know them, so I'm not going to recommend it. Plus, it's a long ways from Raleigh. You'd be better off flying to Charlotte or Asheville.

Being a 5.6 climber at the Gunks means you can climb 5.6 at the Gunks. You may feel comfortable on a 5.7 in other places but not everywhere. In general, NC grades are pretty solid, and I'd be surprised if they were any softer than the Gunks. The grades in the Adirondacks were very similar to the grades here in NC.

Unanimous opinion seems to be that I need to start climbing harder. I will be heading down to Raleigh at some point for work anyway, maybe I can partner up with a more experienced local and learn the rock that way instead of bumbling around a mountain with a gumby. If I'm going to take a first timer out I should probably stick to a crag I know well. Thanks for all the advice.

I'll PM anyone that expressed interest/is open to climbing with me when I do end up in Raleigh. I'm excited to check out Bald, Stone and/or Table Rock now.

Man I forgot, but was just out that way last week. Stone Depot has short multi-pitch routes that are mostly bolted. 5.4 and up, w/ bolted anchors every hundred feet or so. Guides teach up there sometime. It faces SW and would be great that time of year. Unfortunately it's 5 hrs from Raleigh.

Anyways, you really REALLY need to hit up Moore's, preferably w/ someone who can show you around. A lot of good climbing at your grade and even more just a number or two above. It's my favorite crag in the world. If you like the Gunks you'll like Moore's Wall.

PS the only reason I'm not offering to show you around is that I don't live in Raleigh anymore :(

@Ryan Williams - Thanks anyway! A few people offered to show me around/put me in touch with local climbers so seems like it would be a great trip if I can make it. It sounds like it would be too cold for me to go to Moore's in Decemeber, but hopefully something works out.