First Multi-Pitch in Denver area.

JLSmith526 wrote:Wow guys, thanks for all of the input, I really appreciate it! I'm definitely going to take Chris up on his offer and contact him. I don't feel like she would freak out, she's pretty calm and actually a decent lead belayer (she insisted on taking classes and getting experience with help of others backing her up). And she's super safe. I definitely think it would be great to have someone there though that is experienced. Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive guide service, just in case Chris is not available. I just would like to have a back up in case to be safe. For either of the areas previously mentioned in this thread. Thanks for all of the help, it is greatly appreciated!

I definitely wouldnt go on your first multipitch without someone who knows exactly what they're doing, period

JLSmith526 wrote:. Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive guide service, just in case Chris is not available. I just would like to have a back up in case to be safe

In this, as in all things, you get what you pay for. Would you want a "fairly inexpensive" surgeon? Guides work long and hard to get experience and skill and pay lots for certifications on top of that. Respect their effort, skill, and experience..

Kevin Craig wrote:Would you want a "fairly inexpensive" surgeon?

Don't ya think surgery is just a TAD more complicated than leading someone up a 5.7?

Jason Killgore wrote:young and the rackless in boulder canyon. Super well protected easy 5.9. 4 short pitches. Seems like a perfect intro to multipitch sport.

killgore speaks the truth.

Eric Dorsey wrote: Don't ya think surgery is just a TAD more complicated than leading someone up a 5.7?

famous last words!

seriously--you could contact Tom Sciolino with Exum Boulder...307.730.1185....

or Joey Thompson with the Colorado Mountain School.

both great guides and very experienced. you'll have a great time, but also learn a ton.

coppolillo wrote: famous last words!

I realize both the surgeon and guide have your life in their hands but guiding someone up a 5.7 line is no where near as complicated as surgery so lets not suggest they are similar.

At Tonnere Tower in Bocan is a nice line. It's right across the falls which are nice to visit as well. This time of year you might get away with hopping across the rocks on the stream and avoid the tyrol.

Does your girlfriend have experience with Rappelling? This is often the "crux" of a multipitch with a new climber.

If you are more adventurous you might try Lost in the Jungle 5.9 at The Jungle of Devil's Head. It's about 1 hour drive from downtown to the parking lot.
There is a wealth of single-pitch easier climbs at the The Training Ground , which is just off the trail to the Jungle of Devil's Head.

The Training Ground has spectacular position too:

dudes. these people have come and gone. no more suggestions necessary.

Percious, lost in the jungle is not a good suggestion for a first multipitch lead. The crux is at a point where the leader is out of sight from their belayer, and it is STOUT. (My short ass couldn't even clip that first bolt from the ledge) Adventurous, sure, but I would not get into the habit of suggesting this as a good first multipitch for a 5.9 climber.

I would say listen (as it seems you are) to the advice on a 3rd party. Even a competent leader with someone on their first multipitch should take along a 3rd party. It's not unsafe, but climbing is supposed to be enjoyable. And on the first time, it's scary. I can remember my first multipitch, I about had a heart attack just belaying from the third pitch. And with some people, a freaked out belayer makes for a distracted belayer. Another person at the belay just adds some comfort level to the climb.

RyanO wrote: Percious, lost in the jungle is not a good suggestion for a first multipitch lead. The crux is at a point where the leader is out of sight from their belayer, and it is STOUT. (My short ass couldn't even clip that first bolt from the ledge) Adventurous, sure, but I would not get into the habit of suggesting this as a good first multipitch for a 5.9 climber.

Interesting. I am guessing you are talking about the p3 left-leaning crack. When I did the FA I didn't place the bolts, I lead it on trad. It was retro'd later with my permission. I have not gone back and climbed it since. The route seemed like 5.8 to me, even given that I was climbing it on trad gear, cleaning the filthy out of the crack as I went along :-).

cheers.
-chris

Eric Dorsey wrote: I realize both the surgeon and guide have your life in their hands but guiding someone up a 5.7 line is no where near as complicated as surgery so lets not suggest they are similar.

joking, boss, as my "seriously" in the next sentence hinted. no sweat. i totally concede surgery is way less important and complicated than guiding 5.7.

percious wrote: Interesting. I am guessing you are talking about the p3 left-leaning crack. When I did the FA I didn't place the bolts, I lead it on trad. It was retro'd later with my permission. I have not gone back and climbed it since. The route seemed like 5.8 to me, even given that I was climbing it on trad gear, cleaning the filthy out of the crack as I went along :-). cheers. -chris

Sure, man. FWIW, I agree with you on the 5.8+ rating. If it was in eldo, it would be a 5.6 and the bolts would have been chopped long ago ;) BUT, at devils head, that's a full value in-your-face 5.10a(b/c?) move - which would be much more secure on gear for those that can't reach the first bolt.

All I'm saying is that this is not a good first multipitch for a breaking-into-5.9 climber. My breaking-into-5.9 friends would not enjoy themselves on "Lost in the Jungle", even though it is technically 5.8 and has seen an FA on The Trad.

Maybe I should just write this on the mp page for the route and leave it at that. Cool?

I think updating the infos on the route's MP page is good. Not surprising you cannot reach the first bolt. Tod is pretty tall, and sometimes places his bolt accordingly. I guess you could bring some trad gear up there to protect the move to the first bolt. I told Tod to bolt it because I had bolted the first pitch and he had bolted the final pitch. We should grab a beer at GCB sometimes since I'm near to Golden.

cheers.
-chris