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Pablo-Roberts
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Sep 14, 2011
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Prescott, AZ
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 1,165
Im planning on climbing Mount Washington this winter via the Central Gully route. I was wondering when the best odds of a summit bid will be between the months of December and March. Clearest day's and best ice/ snow conditions
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divnamite
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Sep 14, 2011
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New York, NY
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 90
March probably give you the best option. Day is longer, and the condition is generally nicer. If I was to do it, watch the condition report and make the trip based on that.
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Jon H
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Sep 14, 2011
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PC, UT
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 118
Conditions are super fickle. They can be great one day, horrendous the next. Unless you have the flexibility to go any weekend of your choosing, you're just gonna have to pick a date and go, hoping for the best. Bailing is just another facet of climbing, don't be too proud to walk away.
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DannyUncanny
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Sep 14, 2011
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Vancouver
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 100
I've only been once in the winter, but my impression was that the two main concerns are wind and snow. Below the tree line you may have to deal with deep snow, especially on the less popular routes. Snowshoes might be handy. Above the tree line you have to deal with the crazy wind. Above 100 mph and it gets pretty hard to move. The wind buffets you, everything freezes, spindrift blocks your vision.
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Pablo-Roberts
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Sep 15, 2011
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Prescott, AZ
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 1,165
Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated. I am planning to shoot for the summit somewhere between febuary and march. if any one would like to join me shoot me a pm.
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divnamite
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Sep 15, 2011
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New York, NY
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 90
Below the treeline you should be OK. The trail up from Pinkham Notch to Harvard Cabin area is well packed in assuming you are not going up after a big snow dump. From Harvard Cabin to the bottom of the Central gully is pretty nice trail as well. If it's your first time there, know your descent routes before hand. You don't want to be up there in deteriorating weather trying to find the descent. If you are camping at Harvard Cabin, make sure you wait for the avalanche report before you head out. It comes in around 8AM. If you are doing for one day, check the report on your way up. Be smart, if you exercise caution, listen to the rangers and pay attention to weather. It'll be a grand time.
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doligo
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Sep 15, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 264
March. More stable snowpack.
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John Husky
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Sep 18, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 5
All times of year are just fine, though the Central gully takes some winter weather to come in. I've climbed it before it was in and it was scary, postholing through into waterfalls beneath the snow. Later in the winter climbers use it as a walk down. As stated, the weather conditions are what you ned to consider. Go into the Pinkham Notch Baselodge. There are up to date weather conditions posted, as well as avalanche conditions. As small as these mountains seem, take the avalanche warnings to heart. The mountain isn't going anywhere, but you will be if you're standing in the wrong place at the wrong time. The prevailing weather patern blows a lot of snow over the mountain from the east to the west, filling the Huntington and Tuckerman's Ravines with avalanche prone areas.
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