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opinions on Beal Cobra or Mammut Geneis ropes?

Original Post
Kai Troester · · Pepperell, MA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 95

I’m in the market for a new set of double ropes. My current set (Blue Water Excellence) is getting more than 5 years old and I while I haven’t used them as much as I would have liked to (don’t we all :) ) I think it’s time to replace them. One thing I didn’t like about the Excellence is that with its 8.4 mm it feels a bit skinny.

The doubles I’m looking into buying is a pair of “Beal Cobra II Golden Dry”. On paper they look really nice. 8.6 mm, ~15 falls and low impact force. Another good option seems to be the Mammut Genesis (8.5 mm and about the same spec as the Beal)

Does anyone here have opinions for or against these ropes? I’d be buying it off the internet, so I won’t be able to feel it before I commit to buying it.

Jody Jacobs · · NE, GA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 220

I'm also shopping doubles. Here's my 2 cents.

In my limited experience, Beal ropes exhibit a lot of elongation to get that low impact force. It means you get a softer catch but a longer fall. I personally don't like that, some people do.

I've never owned a Mammut, but folks I know who have them have like them.

I'm considering the Bluewater Excellence, Sterling Duetto, Mammut Genesis, and Metolius Monsters.

Kai Troester · · Pepperell, MA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 95
bkb0000 wrote:ju gunna sell your 8.4s?

I haven't considered that. Mostly b/c I don't feel comfortable selling gear that I'm retiring for the sake of retiring it.

Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20
RadDawg wrote:Beal ropes exhibit a lot of elongation to get that low impact force. It means you get a softer catch but a longer fall.

...and also much less force on your placements, equaling potentially less chance of pro blowing out.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

No experience with the Beal's but the Mammut Genesis is a known performer and would be my choice based on my experience with Mammut ropes.

Anthony Nguyen · · Philadelphia · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 50
Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 441

I own the Mammut Genesis.

They are good ropes, but I prefer the Metolius/Monster/Tendon 7.8

metoliusclimbing.com/monste…

Twin and double certified, 36gm/meter, nice hand, durable, good center marking.

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I've got mammut genesis ropes - I wouldn't buy them again. They are quite stiff, and have remained so despite a fair bit of use. I guess that's my main complaint about them. They just don't have as nice a "hand" as some of the other doubles I've used (Bluewater, Beal). The dry coating is very good, the best I've owned actually. My other complaint is that my 60m (purchased new, from MEC) genesis are a fair bit shorter than other people's differently branded 60m ropes. 2-3 meters at least. They're the same length as each other though. My final gripe about them is that my pair - yellow and blue actually have enough yellow in the blue, and blue in the yellow that in very low light conditions, they look very similar. Mine are a few years old, and the colours seem to have changed for the better in the current genesis, but it's still something to consider. Just my 2 cents...

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I love the Genesis. They are very durable, and I find the stiff hand means they are less prone to tangling, and easier to handle with gloves on.

W.S. · · Montana · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 65

Climbed on both, prefer the feel of the Beals. The Mammuts are stiffer, but will probably last longer. Go with whichever is cheapest.

cellige · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

I've had a pair of Beal ice line 8.1 (doubles) now for almost two years and I must say the impact force is fantastic, however they pigtail like no ones business.

I am very inclined to try the genesis since I am in the market, but are there any other alternatives that have just as high of fall ratings but still low impact force? The pig-tailing does seems more important at the moment though... nothing more annoying! :O

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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