Queen Creek vs Mt Lemmon (Jan 2012 trip)

Hey everyone,

So I have read a lot of information about both of these great places, but have never found anyone who has compared them or suggested one over the other. I am starting to plan a climbing trip for early/mid January and have narrowed it down to these two choices. Which place would you suggest if you had 3 days to spend climbing?

Some things to consider:
- Sport climbs only
- Moderate (only comfortable leading up to 10b/c)
- Weather at that time of year
- Access and approaches
- Nearby camping or cheap motels available
- Overall climbing quality (just looking to have some fun and get in some climbing during my winter break)

Thank you for any help or suggestion!
-Adam

At Queen Creek you would be climbing at the Pond Area this time a year. There are a lot of moderates. The rock quality is about B- and the area get the full sun all day long. The rock is really sharp so climbing for 3 days in a row could be a problem. There is a free camping at Oak Flat campground near by. Mt. Lemmon has less moderates for this time of the year. Your best bet would be Hairpin Turn, The Ruins or Sun Spots. You could camp at Molino Basin campground for $18 a night, or get a motel for under $30 in town. I personally would prefer Mt. Lemmon because it's not right by the road, but it's for you to decide.

You would have more options than just The Pond at QC. You could hit up Upper Devils Canyon, The Mine Area or Euro Dog which all have sport climbs in the range you have specified. Camping at Oak Flats the climbing is within a 5 minute drive. Marty Karabin has affordable fold out guides to all these areas that up can pick up at REI. Haven't climbed @ Mt Lemon at this time of year so I can't really say much for it. The rock quality @ Mt Lemon is probably a bit better.

Queen does in fact have a lot to offer that time of year. In the end, it's going to be apples and oranges.

Have fun either place you go.

I say Lemmon...although I support local CLimbing here in PHX.

The wealth of Rock CLimbing on that mountain is sick!
Jailhouse Rock is a day in itself, Rupley Towers, the list goes
on and on. Plus if your into canyoneering - Its another plus!

Queen Creek has a number of areas from Atlantis and the Towers, the Pond, the Pancake House and Throne, Hackberry Creek and Northern ... the List Goes on and on...

Go to Both. Who needs a job anyway!

CLimb Safe and CLimb Strong

Shiloh@CLimbPHX.com

Thanks guys! The suggestions have been really helpful. I was leaning towards QC when I posted the question, and it looks like you all have good things to say about it. Lemmon is almost an extra 2 hours of driving (coming from phx airport) and it sounds like both spots are great...so proximity might be my deciding factor.

ClimbPHX, I really wish I could hit up both places...but car rentals ain't cheap, especially for someone under 21!

Thanks again!

I have got a couple more quick questions if ya'll don't mind.

1. How is the access to Upper Devil's Canyon - MP and RC both talk about a "bumpy dirt road". How will a small 2wd handle this access?

2. I plan on hitting up the Pond...but what is your experience/thoughts with these other crags? Do you think they would make good winter spots and are worth a visit?
- Mine Area (Lower Looner Land and Magma Gardens)
- Upper Devils (Pancake and Throne)
- Devil's Rejects

Thanks again!

AdamJ13 wrote:I have got a couple more quick questions if ya'll don't mind. 1. How is the access to Upper Devil's Canyon - MP and RC both talk about a "bumpy dirt road". How will a small 2wd handle this access? 2. I plan on hitting up the Pond...but what is your experience/thoughts with these other crags? Do you think they would make good winter spots and are worth a visit? - Mine Area (Lower Looner Land and Magma Gardens) - Upper Devils (Pancake and Throne) - Devil's Rejects Thanks again!

1. I do it in my Nissan Sentra without any difficulty. You just have to walk an extra 200 yards at the end.

2. The Pond and Mine Area are both great winter areas. Upper Devils may be cold mattering on the temps. Get a "Marty Guide" and do routes with multiple stars. You'll have blast.

Hey Adam... if Lemmon is of interest and I'm available, we can carpool
down there... just a thought. Make a trip of it.
The Pancake House and Throne are worth a good day - beautiful area
The Pond is exposed so cold days will bode well since its in the sun.
Atlantis might get a little cold (winter) in the AM ...
PM me if interested :)

Hey Shiloh, thank you for the offer...but I think I am set on Queen Creek. There definitely seems to be enough routes/crags there to keep me busy for a couple days.

But of course we can still car pool or meet up at QC! I'll bump this topic when January gets closer to see if you or anyone else is down.