Ten Sleep vs Wild Iris?

I just remembered that sport climbing is really fun.

I'll have 3 or 4 days. Got any opinions?

Tensleep hands down

djkyote said it. WI has shorter/more powerful routes, TS is less powerful, but longer and techy. Both also have great free camping. You can’t lose either way. Could do both in one trip, they are only 2.5 hrs apart. However, WI does have the Lander Bar, which is a big +1.

For towns, I'd take Lander over Ten Sleep.

They both have great scenery. I kinda liked the climbing at Ten Sleep better for me, as, was less fingery intensive and easier on my pinky's.

I'd probably give the scenery location head nod to Wild Iris, though. Toss in South Pass for a burger as an option. Ice Cream in Farson.

The free camping scene in Ten Sleep can be a touch itchy. Last year, was a bit of an issue between groups that got a bit out of hand, rumor has. Not sure I'd hassle with that, but, preferred to pay for camping in Ten Sleep and we really liked it.

Wild Iris is a bunch closer to SLC. Cody is a day trip option from Ten Sleep, though, and, worth it to see the museum.

You've not been to either?

Climbing - Ten Sleep
Town - Lander

Depends on your priorities. Climbing or social/eating/drinking.

Really can't go wrong with either.

The free camping at Tensleep is hard now. The free area is small and limited and now you have to camp on right on top of other campers. I like Lander because there is great food to be had in town. The food sucks in Tensleep except for Sackett's Fork Pizza.

Tensleep has more good routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. Wild Iris has some really great harder routes, but Tensleep seems to be better in that grade range.

I've had no problems with the free camping in Ten Sleep (been there three times this year so far) but every time I've been ther this year Sackett's Fork has been closed :( Lander is also rad, why not do both?

tenesmus wrote:I just remembered that sport climbing is really fun. I'll have 3 or 4 days. Got any opinions?

Sinks Canyon has a bit o'sport and located on the way to Lander Bar from the Iris. Could hit up both in that time frame -good camping in the Canyon w/water (free spots do exist if you hunt)

imo do it all and take a lake-break at Shoshone National forest at the mouth of the canyon, free camping, lakes, boating etc. Fiddler Lake is pretty nice, picturesque lily-pads & serene -lake kayaks small boat paradise. Views south capture the northern alpine rim of the Winds --have fun!

Thanks guys. I'm psyched to maybe do both? Depending on the group, we'll likely end up at Ten Sleep for a weekend in August.

And Brian, I haven't actually gone on a road trip out of state for pure sport climbing in a very long time (read, maybe ever?). I always end up exploring or going to some of the high mountain gems.

Either works. Go to 10Sleep before its becomes completely over-run. A real good place to never be in danger, inflate your ego with the soft grades and look at the new Prius models available in Boulder.

kirra wrote: Sinks Canyon has a bit o'sport and located on the way to Lander Bar from the Iris.

While technically accurate, driving through Sinks to get to Iris will add about an hour to an otherwise 20 minute drive. And anyway, the sunny side of Sinks in August is HOT. Like mix up some brownie batter in Killer Cave in the morning and you'll have brownies by lunch. At least the main wall in Ten Sleep gets shade, and the hike to the main wall at Iris is shady.

Awhit wrote:Either works. Go to 10Sleep before its becomes completely over-run. A real good place to never be in danger, inflate your ego with the soft grades and look at the new Prius models available in Boulder.

So its the Maple of WY?

Just came back from Ten Sleep and the camping was COMPLETLY over run. Every campsite, creek boulders, spots along the forest road, and the pay spots at the bottom were all packed. To make matters worse...it didn't look like anyone was going to be leaving anytime soon.

There are plenty of free camping options just above Tensleep canyon along FS roads across from Meadowlark Lake. In the middle of summer those options are cooler than staying down in the lower part of the canyon.

FC John wrote:Just came back from Ten Sleep and the camping was COMPLETLY over run. Every campsite, creek boulders, spots along the forest road, and the pay spots at the bottom were all packed. To make matters worse...it didn't look like anyone was going to be leaving anytime soon.

Tzilla is right on this one. Since you have to drive to the crags anyway, the fact that the camping gets progressively farther up canyon isn't that much of a problem. Moreover, the free camping along the old highway is getting overrun by inconsiderate jackasses who will cost us that camping area anyway.

How about top routes/walls recommendations for Ten Sleep, from 5.11 to 5.13 - ?

Just got back from 10 days at both Ten Sleep and Wild Iris. For me hands down ten sleep is better but maybe it's because I don't enjoy the pocket pulling common at WI as much as the aesthetic lines at ten sleep.

There was a lot of standing water at ten sleep and plenty of mosquitos. If camping there BRING MOSQUITO REPELLENT!!!

btw you can reserve some of the pay camping sites at ten sleep. Here's a link. Click on the name of the campground and it takes you to a reservation page.

publiclands.org/explore/reg…;forest_name=Bighorn%20National%20Forest&plicstate=WY

After 5 days of camping at ten sleep the town of Landers was a treat. We camped for free in the city park and treated ourselves to dinners out. Landers Bar and if you like asian you gotta go to Asian Cuisine, one of the best asian meals i've ever had (and I know good Asian food).

Lastly, if you go to Landers you might also want to climb at Sinks. The main wall is very similar to ten sleep, awesome, and was in the shade about 4:00. Stayed light until about 9:00 so plenty of time to climb.

Enjoy

vacano wrote:How about top routes/walls recommendations for Ten Sleep, from 5.11 to 5.13 - ?

French Cattle Ranch... That's all I gotta say

Thanks for the suggestions. What a killer place!

just got back from climbing both - love wild iris but would have to go with ten sleep