Looking for a particular sort of route at Red Rock

I've only been to Red Rock once, and didn't do a ton of climbing...a bunch of routes on the Panty Wall, Cut Your Teeth crag, Cannibal Crag and Cat in the Hat (on a cold Christmas day) on Mescalito.

I took a bad fall last September and broke a lot of bones, including a bunch of the bones around my right shoulder and both the tib and fib in my right ankle. I'm back on the rock and was looking to see if there's some long, well-protected routes you could recommend. I can't risk a hard fall on my ankle for a while, but am getting back into the 8s. Anything that will eat gear regularly or well bolted lines would be great.

Are there any routes that are multiple pitches of climbing (that can be or already are) protected as well as the lines on the Panty Wall that go at 5.8? Approach distance and difficulty are not an issue. I'd gladly hike quite far to avoid a crowd either slow ahead of me or faster than me on my heels.

Thanks.

You might get better responses by posting this in the Nevada forum. Just a suggestion.

-Mike

Mike wrote:You might get better responses by posting this in the Nevada forum. Just a suggestion. -Mike

Crap. Clicked the wrong forum link. Sorry. Moving along.

And that is why Mike is such a great guide!

The Angel Food Wall has some moderate multi-pitch. Bit of a hike in.

Also, go do Olive Oyl, multi-pitch 5.7.

Ed Wright wrote:The Angel Food Wall has some moderate multi-pitch. Bit of a hike in. Also, go do Olive Oyl, multi-pitch 5.7.

Thanks! I'll check out the Angel Food wall. Olive Oil was our backup route in case cat in the hat was crowded, so I've got that one on my to-do list.

When are you going?

I'll be heading out this fall. Trying to work up a list of to-do's for when it's less of a furnace out there.

Dark Shadows is a nice walk; shouldn't be too taxing. It is a good line with great pro. The steep thin section takes good gear and it is steep enough. Although you belay from ledges. It continues past the usually done first four pitches. Keep going for more fun if you feel up to it. Otherwise, rap off and chill your healing bones in the cool water below.

The routes on Angel Food Wall are not well protected.

Crimson Chrysalis is super-well protected, but is always crowded (especially on weekends). It is rated 5.8, but is on the easy end of that rating.

Olive Oil is a great suggestion.

Birdland, 5.7, fits the bill well. It also suffers from crowds, but not to the extent of CC.

Frogland, 5.8, is well protected on all but one pitch (it isn't very runout, but it is spicy). If you are swinging leads with another partner that might be a good option also. Fewer crowds and shady.

I would argue that Birdland and Frogland are even more crowded than Crimson.