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Mt. Moran CMC Route Condition

Original Post
LanceSullins · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 375

Quoting the Teton climbing blog:

"Mt. Moran - CMC Route- snow - axe recommended to gain Drizzlepus. Cornices overhang much of the route."

Anybody know a little more detail? Are these "it was a pain routefinding around those cornices" or "not safe to do the route cornices"?

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Drove past yesterday, and I would say that from the current snow pack, probably the latter. There is a LOT of snow up there.

But I'm no expert. Call the ranger station.

Taylor Morgan · · Draper, UT · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 105

Cornices do tend to overhang much of the CMC route during the summer, though they are not usually as robust.

In the past, safe practice has been to traverse or climb left (south) to avoid the cornice, which is thicker near the dike.

I have a permit for CMC this weekend, so I'm hoping the cornices will have retreated enough on the south side to permit climbing on the face. I'll post a TR or update next week.

LanceSullins · · Ridgway, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 375
Taylor Morgan wrote:I have a permit for CMC this weekend, so I'm hoping the cornices will have retreated enough on the south side to permit climbing on the face. I'll post a TR or update next week.

Sweet, I look forward to your report.

I was aware of the 'normally present' cornice at the top of the face and plan to quiz the rangers once we get there end of next week. However, I'm anxious to hear what it looks like!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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