Petzl Ange S users?

bearbreeder wrote:god i must be a zombie then ... night of the living dead notched biners ... ive got tons of em ...

If you haven't had one of those little bastards snag you haven't been climbing enough!

Two pounds near your limit is a lot of weight. The idea that it isn't is kind of absurd. Two pounds on a single pitch trad route could easily be the difference between onsighting a hard move and hanging on the rope. Or the difference between the redpoint and yet anoooother one hang. If this wasn't true, we wouldn't rack only what is specifically needed for the redpoint burn on a single pitch trad route.

In the alpine environment, that same two pounds equals a LOT of food. It has nothing to do with how much weight you can lose, or how much you weigh. It is just a trade off that you can make (for a price, and some drawbacks), to be lighter-and therefore move faster, or carry more food, water, etc.

The idea that it isn't much weight is kind of an astounding one to me.

I've found that when you adopt the "It's only a pound" philosophy you end up carrying a 60lb pack when everyone else is carrying a 40lb pack.

I'm done with heavy hook nose biners. I'm considering the Ange but will most likely stick with the Helium or Nitro.

alexanderblum wrote:Two pounds near your limit is a lot of weight. The idea that it isn't is kind of absurd. Two pounds on a single pitch trad route could easily be the difference between onsighting a hard move and hanging on the rope. Or the difference between the redpoint and yet anoooother one hang. If this wasn't true, we wouldn't rack only what is specifically needed for the redpoint burn on a single pitch trad route. In the alpine environment, that same two pounds equals a LOT of food. It has nothing to do with how much weight you can lose, or how much you weigh. It is just a trade off that you can make (for a price, and some drawbacks), to be lighter-and therefore move faster, or carry more food, water, etc. The idea that it isn't much weight is kind of an astounding one to me.

Where's your evidence on this one? The best I saw was "If this wasn't true, we wouldn't rack only what is specifically needed for the redpoint burn on a single pitch trad route." People only rack light because they think that the weight makes a difference. It would be interesting to do a scientific study on this but I suspect there would be too many independent factors to yield a clear result.

Go find a 2-lbs weight and put it in a back pack and carry it around for awhile, yea you can tell it's there cause it's something, but can that little weight actually make a significant difference? I don't think it will. If you do go out and by the Ange, at 28 grams they're the lightest on the market (notch-less), we charge $10.95 for one and I will gladly take your money ;) Sucker.

Ray Pinpillage wrote:I've found that when you adopt the "It's only a pound" philosophy you end up carrying a 60lb pack when everyone else is carrying a 40lb pack.

I like to carry the heavy pack ;)

2 pounds can be a lot if your pumped and climbing at your limit, but your gonna get more pumped wasting time trying to clip these things.. Unless you got itty bitty hands, the average person, or people with big hands like me, will fight tooth and nail to get clipped in. I got large hands, for reference, the XL OR Alibi's don't even get past my knuckles... I cannot clip these things easily at all... Nano's I have a hard time with, I found BD OZ's work the best. If I had to choose between, ease of clipping and not wasting time, or saving 2 pounds, ill shoulder the 2 pounds. 2 pounds of alpine food isn't worth it. It's not even a ton of food.. Even dehydrated you will only get an extra meal if that when dehydrated. If your packing more food you need more fuel and more water, so it probably ends up being more weight anyways.

Nick Rhoads wrote: If you haven't had one of those little bastards snag you haven't been climbing enough!

actually you dont even feel the notches on the Nitros ... the notch is totally minimal ... but hey ... heres hans florine after speed climbing the nose in under 3 hours with those snagging notched biners ...

Poor Hans! If he would have had the Heliums he would have been ok!

bearbreeder wrote: actually you dont even feel the notches on the Nitros ... the notch is totally minimal ... but hey ... heres hans florine after speed climbing the nose in under 3 hours with those snagging notched biners ...

Totally, if you're not forging your own carabiners on your driveway you're just wasting your money on worthless gadgets.