Best shoes for slab climbing?

I'm looking for a good pair of shoes for friction slabs. Looking primarily for smearing rather than edging ability. I have found 5.10 Spire shoes to be pretty good on slabs, any other suggestions?

I like 5.10 Moccasyms.

Mythos

Yup, the Mythos get my vote too.

5.10 Newtons I love them very comfortable and they have surprisingly good edging ability for what they are. I have sent up to 5.12's in them but its not recommended at all lol it was a lot of unnecessary work.

i did some slab with some fiveten grandstones the other day and they were simply amazing on it...i've also climbed in miura's and they were pretty good on steeper slab

Mark Straub wrote:I'm looking for a good pair of shoes for friction slabs. Looking primarily for smearing rather than edging ability. I have found 5.10 Spire shoes to be pretty good on slabs, any other suggestions?

Depends on the TYPE of slab. I've been told by "slab master" friends of mine that very different shoes are needed depending on the place. Smooth slab ala the Glacier Apron likes a different shoe than rougher slab that requires more edging.

Same goes for rubber. I've found C4 does better on smoother slabs and the Vibram holds up better to edging (especially in hotter weather)

All of this is my opinion of course!

These days, if you're climbing slabs up in squamish, I check out the TC Pros. I've been REALLY impressed with the XS Edge rubber and the TC Pro shoes overall.

For years I swore by an old pair of Sportiva Cliffs resoled with newer rubber...

Mattm is correct. Different types of slab require different shoes. Different angles of slab also.

The mythos are a great all around shoe. They have good edging power, but are also great on smearing. They have been around forever for a good reason.

I like my Miuras for sandstone slab, because that is typically steeper and more edging.

The Scarpa Technos work amazingly well on difficult slab also. Right now I am digging the Evolv rubber, its sticky! I have been getting my shoes resoled them in and really like them, but they wear fast.

Mythos with Onyx rubber....sticky.

For true slabs, Boreal Ninja's.

comfy pair of 5.10 Verdes (with onyx of course)

I bought a pair of Mythos used on the forums here, I'm excited to try them out! When they get a hole, I'll get them resoled with C4 rubber.

Testerosas are awesome - but they sure do hurt like a bitch. When I took my dad up the first I gave him my comfy shoes and wore those. Incredible grip, haha!

As with most climbing conditions, the answer is: "It depends".

Quick story: Climbing a slab route in the South Platte last fall with party of three, girl-friend and boy-friend. I led the first pitch. While belaying them both up it was interesting to watch. Boy-friend can lead 12 in the gym, 11 outdoors. Girl-friend doesn't lead at all and struggles to follow 10-. Boy-friend, in his Muiras and trying to edge fell repeatedly. Girl-friend, in her comfy Mythos and smearing (toe in) climbed without much difficulty.

Bottom line, technique and gear matter:

edging=more precise shoe
warm temps=harder rubber
smearing=comfy flexible shoe
cold temps=softer rubber

In the end, technique trumps gear every time.

i use miuras on squamish slab .. they are stretched somewhat and have been resoled with stealth rubber though ...

use what feels best and works for you ... dave macloed used sport shoes for a slab route before ..

"A case in point - Recently I climbed the famous death defying slab route Indian Face. My ascent was just before the Vapour Velcros came out, and I wore a pair of Scarpa Stix. Some climbers asked me why I would wear an apparently turned down boot on a smeary slab climb? The implication is that turned down boots wouldn’t smear well because they don’t bend back enough to make full contact with the smear. But they do! You just have to let them. This is a limitation of climbing technique, not the versatility of the boot. "

5.10 Gambit's and there on sale! They sick to everything.