Rai Leh guied book recommendations?

My buddy gets one day to climb in Rai Leh and he was wondering which guide book would be the best for moderate sport, and deep water solo routes with easy approaches and near by bars. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks, b.

HE better change his plans cause one day is not, not, not.............................................................................................................................................

Even worth setting foot on the beach.........................................................

Don't worry about the guide. It's better if he only has a day to meet up with other groups to climb with and get the most out of his time. I do not agree with the other comment about it not being worth it for a day. you deal with life anyway you can and if that's what he gets. Take it! ( he could be joking)

i like the small world bar, i think it's across from green valley? i would say that he is best just heading down to the bar off of the main path by the beach for breakfast and chatting up some folks. and the climbing is waaay better than the deep water soloing i think... tonsai is heaven!!!

Actually Tonsai is a toilet... other lesser known and clean areas in Thailand could qualify as Heaven though.

Your friend will find someone to climb with by just hanging out on the beach. Unfortunately they will probably be a gumby American, fresh out of the gym. Tell him to be careful.

If he really wants a guide book he needs to buy one in Railey and support the locals (duh). I recommend King Climbers, as they are now the ones that are strongly supporting the re-bolting effort. Other than that, Thailand is well documented on this site, perhaps more than any other country overseas.

Find out what grade and style he's looking for and I'll make some recommendations.

Thanks guys this is good info, I'll pass it along. I'm thinking he'll decide to spend more time there once he's hanging on the beach.

Ryan Williams wrote: If he really wants a guide book he needs to buy one in Railey and support the locals (duh). I recommend King Climbers, as they are now the ones that are strongly supporting the re-bolting effort.

It just makes my stomach turn... you know this cus they told you so? And yeah, I take it personally.

Brian, if you are trying to buy a book and support the rebolting effort, and you should, then that is bad advice. Also, if he wants to just try out the Deep Water thing then he doesn't need a book. He will get on a "tour group" of climbers that is put together at one of about 3 or 4 shops. I recommend Hot Rock in Ya Ya's, but they are all about the same. They take you out and show you where the climbs are, so no book needed.

If you really want to support the rebolting effort buy a copy of Josh Lyons film The Thaitanium Project.

BTW, just what is a "local"?

Sam, I didn't mean any disrespect at all, to you or anyone else. If I had any idea of your current situation or status in Thailand I would be recommending your book because I think it is by far the best and most useful. I've read it cover to cover more than once and will always treasure my copy. It is obvious that you have a passion for the place.

However, I spent three years in Thailand helping re-bolt, spent a lot of my own money, and I never met you so I didn't have the opportunity to ask you about your current involvement or why you haven't put out a new addition to your book. I never once doubted your statement to give all profits to the bolting fund but I've often wondered if you've simply decided to move on.

I recommended King's guide for a few reasons. They did buy hundreds of bolts last year and even though I know you don't like the ones they bought... they are Titanium and they are being used.

Also, I worked closely with Toto last year, helping him re-bolt and update King's guide. He made it a point to learn how to bolt, and he worked his ass off last year. I know him quite well and believe what he tells me. He said that King's new book was going to help support the re-bolting effort and I believed him. I can't imagine such a clever and sincere guy working towards a false goal. Maybe I am being naive.

I second the idea of buying a copy of Josh's film. He, and countless others, have gone to great lengths to keep Laem Phra Nang a safe and fun place to climb and I know for a fact that he is supporting the cause.

And Sam... I know that you are (were?) more of a local than anyone who is currently living on that peninsula but sadly we've never met so I only know what I've read and heard. Hopefully you can fill me in, privately if you wish, about why exactly my last post made your stomach turn.

If you buddy has only a day or so to climb I'd say any book will do. There is so much to climb it won't matter. I know some of the books have a little more beta for what's new and what's dangerous but really, if you can't decide what is safe for yourself you probably won't like Tonsai. I love it and go by Sa Wa De bar (sp?) and tell Nat I said what up.

Ryan, thank you.... I appreciate your words and respect your efforts. FYI I have only been there for about 3 weeks each year for the last few years, thus not doing my usual job. However, I have seen it through 3 layers of rebolting and funded the lions share of that. I'd just like to see the book I wrote to fund it, though its only 8k in a $20,000+ (random guess) hole that keeps getting bigger, get some love.

As per Toto, he is one of the few "guides" there that i still have respect for. Its mutual. He really cares. And as per King, much respect... he taught himself to read English to write the book.

I get upset because I usually read threads on here that depict the Thai's as doing everything, when the reality is about 3 of them are responsible for rebolting about 15 routes. Also, they rebolt them with equipments that is not tried and tested and is probably going to just ad another layer to the problem. They know the difference, but they chose to not go with the proper equipment because it costs more. Well, thats Thailand, in so many ways, and I've been living with it in many ways for over 20 years. Also, I might add, that the amount King Climbers has given over the years does not, in my mind, compare well with the amount they have made off the bolts that have been put in the walls by foreigners. However, they do actually commit some funds from time to time, and that sets them apart from the other organizations.

Josh Lyons has taken the new lead in putting in really good stuff and he (we) now have the tools to remove things. I recommend everyone give a little something to the Thaitanium Project.

BTW, the right side of the Thaiwand is also redone in Ti as of this year, which I dont think is on the site.

Ryan, we are good.... I just get frustrated. I just got back after spending half of my three weeks there rebotling (with my fiance Liz). Lots of support from farangs on this. The only word from a Thai, other than Toto, was one of the guides asking me to rebolt his thread route. No "thanks", just "what can you do for me". Well, thats Thailand, and I'm used to it, but I get upset when I think a foreigner is promoting it.

But thanks... you are not promoting that.

And now this thread has thoroughly been hijacked. Sorry.