Rumney Trad climbing

lee hansche wrote:i've climbed many rumney sport routes on gear and many take gear well... for practice, clip bolts and place gear...

IMHO this is a great way to get comfy leading above and possibly falling on gear. Place a piece a foot or two above a bolt where it is safe to take a fall and whip onto your gear knowing the bolt will hold you should your gear pop. Great way to begin the process of figuring out what a good placement actually looks like.

I walked around Rumney for two days with a full trad rack. Total waste of time. Though, Flyin' Hawaiian would go nicely with Ball-Nutz!

Go to Conway.

jackkelly00 wrote:I would suggest going to the gunks for your first trad leads. If you are living in VT, it teally isn't too much further to get to the Gunks, and it is the perfect place to learn trad (many of the easier routes have excellent and solid gear placement). Have fun and be safe! (ygd)

+1. The Gunks offer fantastic climbing, and a GREAT place to learn leading on trad gear.

Do it!

rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;search_string=rumney%20Trad;#1988170

yes you were right mark, i had my peewees crossed.... im talking about the one at crow's nest...

Jay Knower wrote: I have given those looks before.

jay gives me those looks even when i sport climb haha

I'm with jackkelly00 and Puzman, the Gunks are super comfortable for learning trad. Betty, Easy O, Easy V, Tipsy Trees, all great 5.3/5.4 routes that eat gear and provide gorgeous views to keep you going.

You can climb a few routes on trad at Rumney. There are some routes that are marked as trad in the guidebook, so why not start with those? Kate's Arete seems like a good choice too, though there are some chossy spots, so be careful and be sure to clip the bolts.

The group is right, though: Echo is probably a better place to start out. Not only are there more trad routes, but every there is climbing trad, so you can find people to talk to about what you're doing.