Longs peak trip.

by the time mid-late July or August rolls around the only snow to deal with on upper kiener's is the stuff at the base of the Notch Couloir, which you have to cross to reach the dihedrals. If it's midday or later when you get there, you should be able to cross the snow reasonably comfortably in hiking boots or approach shoes, but I do know that people's comfort level on snow varies... I had one climbing partner who was absolutely terrified of snow, even the gentler parts of Mills glacier freaked him out, and, likewise, I had another partner that ran laps around me in hiking boots (I was in crampons) in the north chimney.

Anyway, my point is that crossing the base of the notch can be stressful since if there was some sort of snow event or significant instability you could go careening over the lower East face, or the snow could be wet enough to post hole (edited. thanks Bailey... damn dictation software...) through, or not there at all.

Hopes I don't have to go postal on some snows.

Sorry, I couldn't resist. I think you mean "post hole".

Note, Crack of Delight seems to get drainage off Broadway. 2 friends tried to do Stettner's to Kiener's with a 3rd from sea level...and bivied unexpectedly...despite leading 9s. Know your descent options. Note, crossing Broadway unroped can be deadly...remember Cameron. Double, twin ropes, or a thin 2nd rope are wise. Finally, the Diamond goes into the shade ~1230p. The temps seem to drop 20-30 F.

Some good advice here... A few more points:

- Might be worth doing a recon day on Longs before your proposed plan. Going up the north face would be a great way to get to know the mountain, and your descent route.

- Crack of delight can be a challenge to find in the dark, knowing where you are headed ahead of time will save time and stress.

- As Aaron points out, traversing Broadway poses no technical challenges, but is exposed and instable snow can create excitement....

UR GONNA DIE

Matt,
I need to amend my above comment. I recommended Crack of Delight, but I meant Kor's Door. Linking Crack of Delight to Keiner's will suck. You top out under the Diamond and have to traverse the loosest, scariest part of Broadway....better to make it a more plumb line. Bivy at the Ship's Prow site and climb Flying Buttress on Meeker while you're up there. It's killer.

Jim Amidon wrote:UR GONNA DIE

You should go check out RC.com. They enjoy that type of stuff over there.

I personally enjoy Jim's pithy commentary.

+10 points for Jim.

I thought this might be relevant here.
August 17th 2008
www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-hL199CEKQ

I would not recommend going car to car on your first time on Long's if you are going to do a technical route. It's a big mountain, and you want to give yourself some time to acclimate and also figure out the approach and location of your route. Plan to hike in to bivy in the Mills glacier/Chasm Lake area and get started before dawn the next morning. There are many choice bivys up there, don't just pick the first one you stumble upon.

Have fun!

+1 on doing it with a bivy. For someone with little experience on long routes, and who lives at low altitude, doing anything technical on Long's car to car is a VERY long shot... Besides, spending the night up there is part of the fun.

I know these aren't all Longs, but here are some other great climbs in the Park that

Notchtop Spiral Route - 5.4
East Face Arrowhead - 5.4
Blitzen Ridge - 5.4
SharksTooth Northeast Ridge - 5.6
East Gully - 5.4
Spearhead North Ridge - 5.6
Long's Peak Cables - 5.4
Tip Toe - 5.7
Hallet Peak Standard Route (1st Buttress) – 5.5
Center Route – 5.6
Petit Grepon - Any Route

This just touches the tip of the list of alpine moderates in the park if you aren't too hung up on "The Diamond".