Rumney Bouldering Help, Please

I have been doing a lot of bouldering in Rumney this winter, most of which has been discovering/rediscovering new boulder problems. I have been in contact with a few people about routes that have been done in the past and not fully documented.

What I am looking for is if anybody has any route info for routes that are not already on Mountain Proj or info about areas. Basically any information that isn't already currently available I would be interested in hearing about. So I can give proper credit or hear about some cool new lines to go check out :)

Either post it on the forum or PM me, if you have something to share, I hope this brings some results!

Kind of unrelated, but how is it up there right now? i know we're getting more snow wednesday, but rumney is about an hours drive from my house and ive been meaning to get up there this winter.

Eli Buzzell wrote:Kind of unrelated, but how is it up there right now? i know we're getting more snow wednesday, but rumney is about an hours drive from my house and ive been meaning to get up there this winter.

The ice looks pretty good, most lines are in really good, and if your interested in Rock most of the ground water is frozen so it is not leaking so if it doesnt have ice on it, it can probably be climbed.

matthewWallace wrote: The ice looks pretty good, most lines are in really good, and if your interested in Rock most of the ground water is frozen so it is not leaking so if it doesnt have ice on it, it can probably be climbed.

I'm with Eli, just wondering what boulders are clean, and if there are any good sport routes <5.10 that are fairly clean.

Also, I'm assuming you have a copy of Bouldering New England? (Kemple) Theres probably stuff in there that didn't make it onto MP.

Brendan Blanchard wrote: I'm with Eli, just wondering what boulders are clean, and if there are any good sport routes <5.10 that are fairly clean. Also, I'm assuming you have a copy of Bouldering New England? (Kemple) Theres probably stuff in there that didn't make it onto MP.

I took a hike around on Sunday to check out the routes, and Main Cliff looks dry. The 5.10's on the main part look very good.

I added an overlooked by classic problem at Rumney, but I have never heard a name for it. Does anyone know the name of this problem ?

Brendan Blanchard wrote: I'm with Eli, just wondering what boulders are clean, and if there are any good sport routes <5.10 that are fairly clean. Also, I'm assuming you have a copy of Bouldering New England? (Kemple) Theres probably stuff in there that didn't make it onto MP.

Most overhanging stuff in blackjack is good, you will need to dig out some of the bases and clean off the top outs. The pound looks pretty good too, for the overhanging route, except for the top outs, but that should be expected this time of year.

The only stuff that doesn't get cover on MP that is in the Kemple Guide is the Upper blackjack boulders and a few of the really hard lines.

Thanks for the info, I'll bring something big for cleaning off if I get up to Rumney this weekend, looks like this storm combo is going to leave a good amount behind.

Have you googled around for blogs of climbers or other sites that may mention areas in Rumney that aren't commonly used?

Yeah I have looked into RC.com and typed it into google.com without much coming up. I am just curious because I like exploring and am looking to gather any info I can so i have a better idea of what is out there and what has been done, so I can fill out the info properly.

So I was searching around on the internet and on *a.nu there is a problem called Todd's Roof which goes at V9.

Anyone have any info on this?

Also the Route called Doggy Mantle? I see it in the Rumney sport guide but It offers no description so i cannot find or even begin to know where to look. Its either a V0 or V1

Todd's Roof is the alternate name for Escape From Reality at the Meadows.

BDalhaus wrote:Todd's Roof is the alternate name for Escape From Reality at the Meadows.

Thank You!

Another variation to Escape from Reality is to climb the hanging arete to the left of the start looking into the cave. Climb this overhanging hanging arete to a mouth like pocket and then connect with the finish of Escape from Reality. It was called the Angry Worm, FA Dave Sharratt, V11? The problem was climbed in the dead of winter after several days of attempts.

Shylo wrote:Another variation to Escape from Reality is to climb the hanging arete to the left of the start looking into the cave. Climb this overhanging hanging arete to a mouth like pocket and then connect with the finish of Escape from Reality. It was called the Angry Worm, FA Dave Sharratt, V11? The problem was climbed in the dead of winter after several days of attempts.

Oh, I was looking at that it looks so hard. So you start on the hanging arete then into the crack? Looks brutally hard. I eish I could climb that hard.

Do you know anything about the ledge line to the left of that it looks a little crumbly but like it has good moves.