The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Any recent beta on the hidden falls area or others in RMNP? Never been up that way but considering it this weekend if any flows are in...
Thanks!
-NICK

jjjust wrote:http://www.climbinglife.com/current-rmnp-conditions/jan-17th-rmnp-snow-and-ice-report.html (Dude, your hand looks effed up in the picture you uploaded to MP.)

Sweet, thanks for the link and beta. Although this thread isn't for general beta etc, if anybody knows of some good places (WI4-5) that are in and fairly close to Boulder, i'd appreciate a PM... I just moved to CO and i'm looking for some places with good ice a little closer than, say, Vail. And I don't mind walking an hour or two if it means less people (was thinking Hidden Falls this weekend, but i'm afraid it'll be a zoo...).
Cheers!

As of Monday, 1/17/11, Hidden Falls was picked into 3+ territory, and leading it could be a harrowing experience since its like swiss cheese now. Also, the left flow isn't in up top, since the down climb gully left of that has been getting all of the moisture.

CCCanyon update:
It's hardly worth the trip.

Brian Tessier wrote:CCCanyon update: It's hardly worth the trip.

I would imagine that it has degraded quickly. Mickey's crapped out so fast. But I'm still grateful for 45 minute ice! Coors lite was super hero ice a week ago.

Does anybody have first hand knowledge of conditions at the Ouray Ice Park?

Went to Ralston Pass yesterday (edit: by Moffat Tunnel), it was barely chopped on the right with virgin, nearly vertical ice on the left side (albeit only 20ft of it...)

Does anyone have any recent beta on the Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon?

Hidden Falls was pretty picked but fun on Saturday. The very left flow looks like it's growing and less traveled but not very tall yet. The main flow is fat all the way to the top with juggy holes all over the place.

Looks like a pair of climbers had a close call with an avalanche while climbing The Shroud on 1-17-11. From the CAIC accident page:

avalanche.state.co.us/acc/accidents_co.php

"While toproping The Shroud ice climb, an avalanche from above the climb flowed through the area. The climber on the ice at the time was generally protected just below the top of the ice flow and the avalanche ran over him. The belayer was not anchored in and was swept from his stance at the belay station. The belayer was unable to hold the break on the belay device and slid approximately 30 feet down the rope where a knot stopped him from being carried away by the avalanche and releasing the climber above. The snow flowed over the climber and pummelled the belayer for approximately 10 seconds and then continued past the climbers. Neither party was injured or buried as the two climbers held each others weight at the end of the rope through the secure toprope anchor. The slide reached the bike/ski/snowshoe path at the base of the slope approximately 400 to 500 feet below."

Sounds like the knot in the end of the rope might have saved these guys.

Also posted on The Shroud page.

CCC ice yesterday very hacked, Mickeys the top section thinned out but some new ice flowed over the steep ish section and some of the bare rock.

Coors Hacked as ever, second pitch curtain is receding and falling apart...

Did the Ames Ice hose yesterday. Route is in "full value" shape. Ice is thin on 1st pitch- very thin with minimal gear and thought provoking, delicate climbing. Rest of route is very reasonable.

Bridalveil is in fat,easy condition. The Ribbon is in fat but avi-prone, as we discovered first hand today. Might want to give that one a miss for a few more days while things settle out.

Have fun out there!!

erikwellborn wrote: I have balls of steel

You ice climbers are nuts. Eff that s&$#

Spent 4 days in Ouray and the ice is great ! The stuff up camp bird is in and some is quite spicy still really buisy in the park but never really waited for a route we were only interested in WI 5 or better though all the usual suspects were getting climbed enough to clean up the funky stuff.

The only area not up to snuff is the gazebo but what's new
Eh

The temps were just great proably the best time I've had in Ouray as far as the temps go no cold anything !

Go get some
Cheers

Keith H. North wrote:CCC ice yesterday very hacked, Mickeys the top section thinned out but some new ice flowed over the steep ish section and some of the bare rock. Coors Hacked as ever, second pitch curtain is receding and falling apart...

Mickey's the bottom section is heavily receded. Left side is super thin and separating, as well as the top out.

Bring your mixed pons and picks.

UUUUUGGGGHHHHHHHHH

Went up to Hidden Falls in RMNP yesterday afternoon with some friends to run laps.....

It was so hacked out, there is no virgin ice to make a foot step, or try to make a tool placement.

Pocketed to death with foot steps, and rotting ice, I wouldn't trust a screw in the conditions it's in right now.

It was fun to be out with my friends but I wouldn't go back there.

A testament to how many people have been up there, there was a huge 6' tall snowman at the base near the trail.

Maybe from all the people waiting to get their chance at climbing the staircase......

Sorry no pics... but Bridalveil is as fat and easy as it ever gets right now. Following path of least resistance from right to left of center and then straight up the center. Easily done in 2 pitches with a 70m. Probably WI4+ or very easy WI5.

10-Mile/Vail

10-Mile is seeing it's fair share of heavy avalanches, but the Shroud pooped-out, so the route is fairly safe for now. Parking is tight as CDOT has not plowed the road/lot up to the bike path gate. Skis recommended as the approach varies from 12-36". The debris pile is perfect for cruising up to the base.

Vail is in rockin' shape and although the Fang has been connected for sometime I have to admit it may be an accident waiting to happen (wish it would drop and reform at the roof lip). The pillar formed 4-5m below the roof lip and the mass of ice in that curtain from the pillar neck to the roof lip is scary heavy and fractured. It is totally leadable at WI5 but after the collapse last year, I've learned alot about how that ice forms and what is/is not reasonably safe. The Desi is a peg-board and Secret Prob is in the easiest condition ever. Check out the new mixed lines from M6-10, there has been alot of development in the last year with some stellar lines offering a challenge and helping spread out climbers.

All the ice is in excellent shape from the Firehouse to the 9th Hole, check out something new!

The Jaws Falls' teeth have been pulled

Sunday 30th

Blast the warm weather... compare to a week earlier

Sunday 23rd

Lots of water running though, bring back the cold!

Went to Vail yesterday with Paul. Did Frisco Kid. Seemed harder than M6+ (M7?) but maybe I just need to get into shape............Good quality for Vail.

There are red crayon TIC marks all along the route. I hope this does not become a common practice on dry-tooling routes.