The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Rob Griz wrote:Work day at Vail, Desi Logging Effort: Drug along the Husky and Bosch, needless to say it was a fun day on the local crag with powertools. We cut out much of the tree top on the Fang apporach, then Brad and I removed the sketchy-looking spruce that hung out over the Desi and all the willows that got mashed down (they will grow back). Brad scored the FA on the 65' tree that augered into the snow at the base of the Desi, fun shit. Sure someone will post pics. After chain sawin', we went drilling over at the Staircase and put up a new drytool line left of the Staircase, Frisco Kid: M6+ 65'. Was a good day out, enjoy the new line!

Thanks Rob.

Anybody climb these lines? They are on the West side of Hwy 550 just north of Durango. Took this picture from about a mile away, so I'm guessing these are pretty long.

Durango unknown.

ozman wrote:Anybody climb these lines? They are on the West side of Hwy 550 just north of Durango. Took this picture from about a mile away, so I'm guessing these are pretty long.

Many a hardman has salivated over these gorgeous flows in Junction Creek. Unfortunatley, they are off limits due to the "Durango Archeological Area" home to Ester's Cave. Many good rock lines reside in the same general area.

co.laplata.co.us/sites/defa…

Boulder Canyon ice - not in.

Addendum: as of 1/20/11, the upper falls has some thin ice (on 2 lines), but there is no water flowing! So, it won't heal/grow as is.

Any recent beta on the hidden falls area or others in RMNP? Never been up that way but considering it this weekend if any flows are in...
Thanks!
-NICK

jjjust wrote:http://www.climbinglife.com/current-rmnp-conditions/jan-17th-rmnp-snow-and-ice-report.html (Dude, your hand looks effed up in the picture you uploaded to MP.)

Sweet, thanks for the link and beta. Although this thread isn't for general beta etc, if anybody knows of some good places (WI4-5) that are in and fairly close to Boulder, i'd appreciate a PM... I just moved to CO and i'm looking for some places with good ice a little closer than, say, Vail. And I don't mind walking an hour or two if it means less people (was thinking Hidden Falls this weekend, but i'm afraid it'll be a zoo...).
Cheers!

As of Monday, 1/17/11, Hidden Falls was picked into 3+ territory, and leading it could be a harrowing experience since its like swiss cheese now. Also, the left flow isn't in up top, since the down climb gully left of that has been getting all of the moisture.

CCCanyon update:
It's hardly worth the trip.

Brian Tessier wrote:CCCanyon update: It's hardly worth the trip.

I would imagine that it has degraded quickly. Mickey's crapped out so fast. But I'm still grateful for 45 minute ice! Coors lite was super hero ice a week ago.

Does anybody have first hand knowledge of conditions at the Ouray Ice Park?

Went to Ralston Pass yesterday (edit: by Moffat Tunnel), it was barely chopped on the right with virgin, nearly vertical ice on the left side (albeit only 20ft of it...)

Does anyone have any recent beta on the Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon?

Hidden Falls was pretty picked but fun on Saturday. The very left flow looks like it's growing and less traveled but not very tall yet. The main flow is fat all the way to the top with juggy holes all over the place.

Looks like a pair of climbers had a close call with an avalanche while climbing The Shroud on 1-17-11. From the CAIC accident page:

avalanche.state.co.us/acc/accidents_co.php

"While toproping The Shroud ice climb, an avalanche from above the climb flowed through the area. The climber on the ice at the time was generally protected just below the top of the ice flow and the avalanche ran over him. The belayer was not anchored in and was swept from his stance at the belay station. The belayer was unable to hold the break on the belay device and slid approximately 30 feet down the rope where a knot stopped him from being carried away by the avalanche and releasing the climber above. The snow flowed over the climber and pummelled the belayer for approximately 10 seconds and then continued past the climbers. Neither party was injured or buried as the two climbers held each others weight at the end of the rope through the secure toprope anchor. The slide reached the bike/ski/snowshoe path at the base of the slope approximately 400 to 500 feet below."

Sounds like the knot in the end of the rope might have saved these guys.

Also posted on The Shroud page.

CCC ice yesterday very hacked, Mickeys the top section thinned out but some new ice flowed over the steep ish section and some of the bare rock.

Coors Hacked as ever, second pitch curtain is receding and falling apart...

1st pitch, no gear for the 1st 50 ft.

2nd pitch.
Did the Ames Ice hose yesterday. Route is in "full value" shape. Ice is thin on 1st pitch- very thin with minimal gear and thought provoking, delicate climbing. Rest of route is very reasonable.

Bridalveil is in fat,easy condition. The Ribbon is in fat but avi-prone, as we discovered first hand today. Might want to give that one a miss for a few more days while things settle out.

Have fun out there!!

erikwellborn wrote: I have balls of steel

You ice climbers are nuts. Eff that s&$#

Spent 4 days in Ouray and the ice is great ! The stuff up camp bird is in and some is quite spicy still really buisy in the park but never really waited for a route we were only interested in WI 5 or better though all the usual suspects were getting climbed enough to clean up the funky stuff.

The only area not up to snuff is the gazebo but what's new
Eh

The temps were just great proably the best time I've had in Ouray as far as the temps go no cold anything !

Go get some
Cheers

Keith H. North wrote:CCC ice yesterday very hacked, Mickeys the top section thinned out but some new ice flowed over the steep ish section and some of the bare rock. Coors Hacked as ever, second pitch curtain is receding and falling apart...

Mickey's the bottom section is heavily receded. Left side is super thin and separating, as well as the top out.

Bring your mixed pons and picks.

UUUUUGGGGHHHHHHHHH

Went up to Hidden Falls in RMNP yesterday afternoon with some friends to run laps.....

It was so hacked out, there is no virgin ice to make a foot step, or try to make a tool placement.

Pocketed to death with foot steps, and rotting ice, I wouldn't trust a screw in the conditions it's in right now.

It was fun to be out with my friends but I wouldn't go back there.

A testament to how many people have been up there, there was a huge 6' tall snowman at the base near the trail.

Maybe from all the people waiting to get their chance at climbing the staircase......