Front Range rope stretchers...
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There is something rewarding about piecing together a long lead. (180ft+) You need to conserve your gear and watch your rope drag. Pulling the crux move at the end of a long pitch is always exciting! |
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Doing Rewritten, in Eldo, in three pitches is fun. |
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My fave is Lenes Dream in Eldo. You do the business of the 4th pitch of Jules Verne, continue through more awesomeness(Lenes Dream) and finish at the top of the 2nd pitch of the Naked Edge doing the 10a/b crux of that pitch. Super good, take 2 ropes to get down. |
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Rosy Crucifiction goes in one pitch (just) with a 60m rope - recommended! |
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(if you've got good endurance the last 2 too 175ft)
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How about the first pitch of Rincon linked into On The Crest for 200 feet of sweet climbing? One of my other favorites is Unbroken Chain linked into False Prophet (Unbroken Prophet?) on West Ridge. Though it is only 110 feet long it is full value and exciting the whole way. |
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I like to do the 3 pitches of Chockstone in Eldo in 1 pitch. Watch the rope drag. I think the best though is Country Club Crack in one pitch. Doing Wrinkles in Time in one pitch is always satisfying too. |
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Linking pitches on Bihedral Arete is cool too. Also, linking That's Weak into The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked makes for a really beautiful 12a with nice clean whips at the top. |
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Hmmm... for the moderate climb lovers out there, with proper sling work, you can do Gambit (on Shirt Tail Peak, in Eldo) in 2 pitches, a 70M rope is best, but I've done it with 60M ropes. |
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I've only climbed one day on the Front Range. We combined pitches 4 and 5 (traverse R, then both roof things), and then 6 and 7 (5.10 bolts to the summit arete) on Yellowspur. |
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I forget what her name was, but she was cute. |
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I'm with Andy. Rosy, in one pitch, is the best 5.10 in Eldo. |
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I linked up the first 3 pitches of Ruper once by doing the easier right hand start. Epic. |
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Hank Caylor wrote:My fave is Lenes Dream in Eldo. You do the business of the 4th pitch of Jules Verne, continue through more awesomeness(Lenes Dream) and finish at the top of the 2nd pitch of the Naked Edge doing the 10a/b crux of that pitch. Super good, take 2 ropes to get down. I doubt you have to worry about rope drag or running out of gear on that one! |
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not that I've done it, but would it be possible to link the crux hand crack and the fist crack pitches on pervertical sanctuary on the diamond with a 70m? That'd be a mondo pitch! |
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Monty! Hey sorry we never got together while we were in town, we'll just have to do it when we get back. As for the rope stretcher, those two pitches on Pervertical don't really go together, even with a 70. The second has to start climbing, I think we were off by about 10 feet or so. It makes a fantastic pitch, even though I followed it. Talk soon! |
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Balance, 5.8, North Cheyenne Canyon. When your toes touch the ground you have about 6 inches tail left with a 60 meter. |
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Waiting For Columbus
was a favorite of mine in the Flatirons, admittedly I didn't climb in the Flatirons as much as I wanted to but this climb was very, very cool. It goes a full ropelength from the ground to the eyebolt on top, plus you can approach it by solo or simuling the standard route on the Third. |
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Monty wrote:not that I've done it, but would it be possible to link the crux hand crack and the fist crack pitches on pervertical sanctuary on the diamond with a 70m? That'd be a mondo pitch! Also t2 to the base of the edge in one pitch with a 70m That sounds do-able. The first 3 pitches of Casual go with a wee bit of simuling. . . |
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Monty wrote:not that I've done it, but would it be possible to link the crux hand crack and the fist crack pitches on pervertical sanctuary on the diamond with a 70m? That'd be a mondo pitch! I do know someone who has done this. Apparently it takes every last bit of the rope. That would have to be a candidate for best 5.10 (or 11a) crack pitch in the universe! |
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I want an 80m rope! |




