What’s your favorite ice climbing tools, crampons, gloves? (Preferably Black Diamond)

I have been scanning through the Ice Climbing MP posts, so feel free to just throw-out some quick-hitter responses...

What is your favorite/recommended brand/model for the following ice climbing gear? I’m a beginner, female ice climber in Colorado, and can purchase used gear on any brand, but I have a last-second Black Diamond deal for new gear this weekend that I’d like to use, so I'm leaning towards BD.

#1 Ice climbing tools
My friend likes the BD Vipers and loves the BD Cobra (but at $660 for the pair, that is not going to happen for me!)

#2 Ice climbing crampons for alpine and water ice
My friend loves the Petzl Dartwin (light, aggressive, alpine and water ice, front wire bail). I know I should get crampons to fit my boots, but I have an old pair of hand-me-down leathers for this season.

#3 Ice climbing gloves
My friends like the BD Guide or BD Sensi or BD Prodigy. And I have read the MP postings on the various “systems” for leading and belaying.

#4 Glacier travel/couloir crampons
I have an old pair of Charlet Moser's (instead of a toe bail it has a strap toe that then goes around my ankle, which I dislike)

Nomic Ice tools. BD Sabretooths. Yeah,I know people keep saying theyre are not a "ice climbing" crampon. Seems to work just fine on everything for me! BD Punisher glove- a good all around performer.

love my new fusions for ice tools.
i have also been climbing on the dartwins and really like them. for pure ice, i still think the sabertooths are the best crampon. i really like the horizontal teeth (tons of surface area). i have climbed wi6 in sabers. because i was doing a lot of mixed alpine, i thought the dartwins were a good compromise (they seem to have the most surface area on the front points of the vertically oriented crampons). sabers are great for glaciers too.
gloves: i have some super thin (don't know the model name) RAB leather gloves that rule for leading. relatively cheap and durable (for a lead glove). when done climbing i throw them inside the jacket to keep them warm & put on some cheap uber-warm Kinco brand gloves.

only favorite I have so far are the Trango Scorpion tools. They just swing better for me. Sorry that doesn't help you on the BD stuff though. Good luck.

IMHO you can rarely go wrong with any BD products.

This email just rolled-in from a friend (pasted below). If I go w/ the Cyborg crampons then I have to select pro (for boots w/ a toe welt) or clip. Since I don’t have decent boots yet, I’ll have to get the "clip" (as that more versatile of boots can be used w/ it).

“First is alpine rig: BD cobras (new version) and new BD Cyborg crampons. I love the tools because they are light, vibration dampening carbon fiber. Its design makes it the ultimate alpine tool. Crampons are stainless steel. Can't rust. Strong and light. Awesome performance.

Other rig is for mixed climbing. I have BD Fusion tools (old version) and la sportiva/ grivel mega ice fruit boots. Tools are awesome for mixed and they perform ok on pure ice and even alpine if needed. Boots are best performing I've ever had for mixed. Super sensitive. Feels like a rock climbing shoe.

I use a mix of all of my gear for cragging when it's not a full on alpine climb.”

Vipers are all you need for tools,

Sabretooths are are great crampon you can use for snow/ice/Mountaineering as well as steep waterfall ice and mixed climbing.

Gloves......what ever fit best I do have a pair of the Guides but use them to belay as they are super thick in the palm for leading....

go with what erik wellborn said. nomics rock(love mine) if you can't afford the cobra's. the vipers and cobra's swing completely different than one another. own a couple pairs of sabretooths. old school and new school. definitely light. if your boot has the welts drop the plastic strap over the toe. metal versus plastic. which will hold up? the fusion's are hydro formed. haven't had a chance to climb with them. own the punisher gloves in medium and large and they are good to go. the bd screws are great! couple turns get them started.been climbing on the new grivel rambo's for the last few years and like them.
here is the thing, you may want to swing some tools before you buy. I've purchased tools on a whim and when I went to climb with them they weren't worth it.I should have hit myself in the head with a tack hammer.
sorry if there is spelling errors. just came home from climbing ice in vail. my partner brought a handle of famous grouse. I took a few tugs off of it. feeling no pain right now.
cheers

In my opinion, BD sucks for ice!!! I've tried several pairs of tools and didn't like them! Bought a pair of Bionic tampons and sold them. When you try either Petzl or Grivel, you will understand! Good luck with purchases based on others' opinions instead of trying different companies products before making decisions based on what works for you. If you've climbed on others' products, sorry, I'll retract my statement, slightly. But, it's all personal preference, but I feel Grivel and Petzl has items for ice that are in a league beyond what BD produces!!! And that's from personal experience and money out of pocket to find out. But let's face it, the Europeans have been at this game WAY longer, so they know what works. Christmas is close, merry christmas for your purchases!

Juan

I own an old pair of Vipers and an old pair of Cobras. I think that both are great. A friend rigged the Cobras so that they are leashless. The Vipers come rigged for leashed or leashless climbing.

However, the Nomics are the best tool I have swung. The Quarks are nice too.

I climbed for years in BD Sabertooth Crampons. They were great. I changed a few years ago to BD Cyborgs. They climb great too.

If you can, head to the ice fest and demo as many tools as possible prior to making a buy.

Have fun and climb safe.

+ 1 for what Juan said

Get Nomics and a good pair of Grivel crampons

Black Garbage isn't worth the money even w/ a pro deal

I would recommend the Vipers. I have both a pair of the old ones and the new ones and I think they are an all-around good tool. The Cobra is surely a step up, but I'm not sure if its worth the money. I have climbed a bunch on Nomics as well, and I admit they are quite nice. However, I don't think they are as versatile as the vipers are. If you want to do some alpine climbing I would get the Vipers. If you are solely climbing steep ice and mixed then I would say the Nomics. That being said, the Quarks are a more versatile tool from Petzl. As for crampons, I have only used BD and Grivel. I have both the Sabertooths and Cyborgs and would say that either one will perform well. Sabertooths will climb snow and lower angle mixed better, Cyborgs steep ice and steep (monopoint) mixed better.

As for gloves, I love my BD punishers.

Tools: BD Reactors
Crampons: BD Cyborg
Gloves: Kinco Work Gloves

no1nprtclr wrote:In my opinion, BD sucks for ice!!! I've tried several pairs of tools and didn't like them! Bought a pair of Bionic tampons and sold them. When you try either Petzl or Grivel, you will understand! Good luck with purchases based on others' opinions instead of trying different companies products before making decisions based on what works for you. If you've climbed on others' products, sorry, I'll retract my statement, slightly. But, it's all personal preference, but I feel Grivel and Petzl has items for ice that are in a league beyond what BD produces!!! And that's from personal experience and money out of pocket to find out. But let's face it, the Europeans have been at this game WAY longer, so they know what works. Christmas is close, merry christmas for your purchases! Juan

Saying that BD is inherently inferior because the Euro tools were developed first is like saying the Japanese cannot build a good automobile. BD tools are great IMO. Top climbers like Will Gadd, Josh Wharton, and Ines Papert regularly win comps with these tools. Major alpine routes are regularly established with these tools. I think Grivel and Petzl make fine tools as well, but I have to give some credit to BD which is my preference. BD was the only choice for me for me because of the modular head. Petzl has finally caught on to that idea, and I'd look at them seriously before I buy my next set. I do agree with Juan in saying try all the tools out yourself.
I need some arm candy for the ice fest, so what do you say Summer? Wanna be my date?

Personal preferences...

BD Cobras (Vipers are good too and I have and use Nomics for mixed)
Grivel Rambo 4 crampons (but many friends like the newer Cyborgs and the Sabertooths are good for most pure ice)
BD Torque gloves for leading (unless it's real cold when I'll use Mammut Touch Ices or BD Punishiers) and BD Guide-like gloves for belaying.

Unfortunately, BD doesn't make the Sensei or Samurai gloves any longer (problems with the welded seams).

bd cyborgs
petzl quarks

Summer Time wrote:I have been scanning through the Ice Climbing MP posts, so feel free to just throw-out some quick-hitter responses... What is your favorite/recommended brand/model for the following ice climbing gear? I’m a beginner, female ice climber in Colorado, and can purchase used gear on any brand, but I have a last-second Black Diamond deal for new gear this weekend that I’d like to use, so I'm leaning towards BD. #1 Ice climbing tools My friend likes the BD Vipers and loves the BD Cobra (but at $660 for the pair, that is not going to happen for me!) #2 Ice climbing crampons for alpine and water ice My friend loves the Petzl Dartwin (light, aggressive, alpine and water ice, front wire bail). I know I should get crampons to fit my boots, but I have an old pair of hand-me-down leathers for this season. #3 Ice climbing gloves My friends like the BD Guide or BD Sensi or BD Prodigy. And I have read the MP postings on the various “systems” for leading and belaying. #4 Glacier travel/couloir crampons I have an old pair of Charlet Moser's (instead of a toe bail it has a strap toe that then goes around my ankle, which I dislike)

#1, I use Petzl Nomics older model.
#2, Grevil G14 crampon
#3 ice gloves, 1 pair of hardwear store leather gloves lathered in Snow seal beeswax, (my belay gloves are big poofy grando double layer gloves)
#4 grevil G12 for more moderate terrain

I really like Grivel's anti-balling plates.

Don't know if you already made your mind - this comes a bit late, but here's my opinion.

1) Grivel Quantum Tech Ice tools with triggers - like my current Taa-k-oons, like their swing and hold, but they're a lot lighter due the carbon composite shaft.

2) Grivel Rambo 4 - by far the best ice climbing crampon, I consider that the margin to the "next best" is rather large.

3) BD Enforcer Gloves - Work well in cold conditions while still being dexterious enough for placing screws, for warmer weather I would consider something lighter though.

4) I would again go with some Grivel crampons, though I don't think that the difference here is that large.

- Juho Risku / www.climbingextreme.com