Southern NH sport climbing

Besides P-way and Rimmon does anybody have any information about sport climbing in southern NH or even good bouldering.

Goffstown (short sport), Joe English (all kinds) and Marlowe (mostly sport). If my mind starts working, I'll remember these areas better and let you know.

john

I think Joe English has some access issues, entering through private land, from what I can remember. I would be careful with heading there if you do. Does anyone know if there is any issues there?

Do you know any route info for Goffstown?

Joe English is better than it used to be. I think MP member Lee Hansche lives in Goffstown. If you are in the Manchester area, look up Paul Boissenault(base). He is a long time freind and knows all about southern NH.

john

clemay wrote:I think Joe English has some access issues, entering through private land, from what I can remember. I would be careful with heading there if you do. Does anyone know if there is any issues there?

Does anyone know if Joe English is accessible? Legally?

Where is Marlowe?

matthewWallace wrote:Where is Marlowe?

Actually, it's Marlow (no 'e'). There's a couple/few routes at a spot called the Profile, which is about a mile West of the intersection of Rt 123 and Rt 10 in Marlow:

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=NH+Route+10+%26+Rte+123+marlow,+New+Hampshire&sll=43.470176,-72.148376&sspn=0.021615,0.03974&ie=UTF8&ll=43.11552,-72.195282&spn=0.043482,0.079479&t=h&z=14&iwloc=addr

If memory serves, there's a thin slaby .9 on the lower crag (along with a couple more routes top-rope-able from an old bolt up top), and a thin .11 on the upper crag (along with more top-roping options). It's worth bringing gear if you want to set top-ropes.

Upper crag is reached by parking in the pullout and following the trail up a steep hillside to the obvious cliff. Lower crag is reached via a right-branching trail just a couple hundred feet or so down the trail from the parking.

Julian thanks for the info I will have to check it out...

Where is the cliff in Goffstown?

Brian wrote: Does anyone know if Joe English is accessible? Legally?

The short answer is no, unless you are accompanied by someone stationed there. Joe English is on a military installation that tracks satellites and over the years I've been chased off a few times.

Lizz

According to an old Guide I received to Joe English Hill. The latest ruling is that one must call the NH Satellite Tracking Station by the previous Thursday noon at the latest and give the name of the group one belongs to, the number of people in the group and so on...

No clue if this ruling still stands true today with the nature of world events and such... But as of 1977/1980's??? this was the ruling for Joe English Hill.

brianmiller wrote:Where is the cliff in Goffstown?

Dunno exactly where it is, but the name is Rattlesnake Hill.

Edit: Found it:

maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=43%C2%B0+1%2730.49%22N++71%C2%B013%270.55%22W&sll=43.025137,-71.209087&sspn=0.007843,0.019312&g=43%C2%B0+1%2730.49%22N++71%C2%B013%271.55%22W&ie=UTF8&ll=43.026753,-71.216061&spn=0.007843,0.019312&t=h&z=16&iwloc=addr

I went looking for Rattlesnake the other day. Halfway there I realized the place I linked above is not the climbing area (it's not even in Goffstown!). I figured I'd check it out anyway though since I was in the area. The access road was blocked, but it didn't look like there was any rock on that hill.

I guess we're still looking for directions to Rattlesnake in Goffstown

You can try Devil's Den and Mt Molly over in New Durham, both are posted on PM

If your ever out by rt.31 near windsor I can take you bouldering at an area I started cleaning this year. Close to 150 problems of all grades and sizes. I was out there today and the ice is building up quick.

Whiteface, off Durrell Mountain Road in Belmont, NH has some sport climbing, from a few short, silly routes to some high quality, Rumney style ones. There are handful of crags on the hillside, just like Rumney. One of the crags lower down is the steep Spine Cave, where Brady Libby put up a bunch of routes. The Main Cliff aka The Turkey Buzzard Cliff has a half dozen really good routes like Macho Nacho 5,11 and Fat and Happy 12c. Unfortunately, last time I was there, the poison ivy had grown back all over the base. Somebody needs to go with some roundup and hit it hard a few times.

Todd Swain was collecting route information for his upcoming guide to Southern NH. In the mean time, if you know Brady Libby, he is probably the best source of information about the area. He lives near by and put up a bunch of the routes. I can't remember the names of my own except Fat and Happy.

Thanks Mark, I am anxiously awaiting that guide I cannot wait for it!

I would be careful about going to rattlesnake. I grew up in Weare and I was brought there by the person who found/bolted it. The way it was explained to me was that it was entirely on PRIVATE land and that if you would like to go climbing there always carpool; so we can limit the amount of cars parked on the road. There is a YMCA nearby that you can park at for free all day. We need to be careful with this place as our treatment of it will decide weather we can continue to climb there for many years to come, or to get a nice friendly No Trespassing sign and get all the bolts chopped.

I would happily give you directions and the route information for the cliff if you PM me. I just urge people to be courteous and to leave the place cleaner than you found it. There is also a resident porcupine, please don't disturb him/her.

Otherwise the place is great (short approach, amazing scenery, and climbable for most of the year) and has routes that would challenge climbers of all levels; there my be some good bouldering below the cliff as well, that has, to my knowledge, not been explored to date.

joe english was my home crag back before 9/11, but since then it's pretty much become completely off limits. can't tell you how many times I've been chased. those guys don't f*ck around, i wouldn't risk it. i was sitting in the parking area one day a few years back waiting for a buddy to hike to the top, and within 5 minutes a cop showed up and told me to leave. i think the locals on that road keep their eyes open.

There is also quite a few bolted routes at Stonehouse Pond, with a short walk aswell.

Heres the most recent discussion with beta and such.

mountainproject.com/v/easte…