Beginning alpine climbs

Hey all. I have a bunch of alpine climbs on my ticklist (Petit Grepon, Pigeon Spire, Exum Ridge, etc.) and would like to get some practice for alpine style routes. Basically, what I want is to get dialed at leading and would like to work my way up in terms of seriousness and gear placements. Ideally, I would like to be able to start getting some practice before the typical RMNP season, but open to suggestions for anywhere. So, what routes would you suggest that have these qualities as good introductory alpine climbs:

1) Multipitch, 5.7 or less
2) "Alpine" style (routefinding, etc.)
3) Not too committing (e.g., Grade I or II)
4) "Good" gear (relative to alpine routes of course)
5) Closer to Boulder, CO preferred

I've looked at different routes, but a lot of times it's hard to get a feeling if a climb would be a good beginning climb or not. For example, some thoughts were:

Spiral Route, Notchtop
North Ridge, Spearhead
N Ridge, Pagoda
NE Ridge, Sharkstooth
The Aprons, Mt. Evans
N Face, Lone Eagle
The Nose, Monitor Rock

Any other suggestions or thoughts on those? Thanks!

Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak is an awesome introduction to alpine. Super-easy but often thoughtful climbing, solo potential for speed, exposure in spots, all kinds of different gear options and a semi-remote location in the Grenadier Range in the San Juans. I don't know how early in the season you'd want to hit it, and it'd be a burly winter climb, but its really fun.

Exum (upper at least) is pretty straight forward and very easy climbing. you still have to route find and what not but if you do get into trouble, there are many parties up there along with many guides if you do happen to get into trouble. it's a big commitment, but it's more of an pleasant experience if you bivy than doing the typical super alpine start. while i would suggest doing it all in one day, if you end up doing it as your 1st alpine route, i'd do it in 2. enjoy

Having done a lot of your tick list as my own introductory routes to alpine, I can highly recommend Shark's Tooth as perhaps your first foray into alpine rock. It's a wonderful summit, the hike in is not that extreme, and the route finding is simple. In addition, the rappels are easy to manage and it has at least one or two alternative routes to the summit if the one you want is occupied.

Lone Eagle is also quite nice, although the hike in is a lot longer and the descent is a bit tricky. You tend to want to go down into the gullies too soon. But definitely do this route as well.

Good luck getting in the line for the Petit! That's what has kept me from climbing it so far. Too many desire it's precipitous summit.

Never done the Spearhead route, but hear good things about it and it's a great area. Pagoda is so-so compared to the others. Only a few pitches of climbing for the long hike in.

I always recommend the North Ridge of Spearhead as a great beginning alpine climb. Great rock, good protection, good position, walk off the top, and a great setting.

I felt that the NE Ridge on Sharkestooth was short for the hike in, but there are some great pitches in the middle part of the route.

Another possibility is Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon.

E Ridge of Bancroft
More of a mixed route. The approach is relatively short (even if the road is closed) and it's not far from Boulder:

mountainproject.com/v/color…

NE Ridge on Sharkstooth is great!

Another really good early season RMNP route is "Tourist Tragedy" on Cathedral Wall. The first pitch is 5.9, the second 5.8, but after that it goes go steppy 5.6/5.7 and is a very enjoyable tour of that wall.

Hear great things about Pagoda, both it's ridge runs and that N. Buttress route. Keyhole Ridge on Longs sounds like a lot of fun as well.

Kevin -
Great tic list! They're all good routes. The best advice I can offer in terms of "training" for more committing RMNP routes, is multi pitch practice, practice, practice. Rope management, lead changes, gear hand-offs, efficient anchor set-ups, partner communication (when you can't see or here him/her). These are skills that are best practiced right there in your back yard - Eldo! Go climb Rewritten, Swanson Arete, Ruper (moderates 5.6-5.8's, 6 pitches?). Hone in your travel skills on longer routes - then, when it's go time - bring a tested/trusted partner to the park and start on your list...you should look at Zowie to - just like the Petit but much less traffic.

Good luck - climb safe!

I'd have to 2nd Walton's suggestion. Eldo is a great place to get in a lot of funky trad climbing during the winter.

Thanks for the suggestions so far! Even more to add to the todo list ... Vestal Peak definitely looks like fun. I had forgotten about Zowie, that's definitely going on the list as well. I was definitely planning on doing some climbing at Eldo, good to know that it should be good practice too.

Any other suggestions?

The Great Dihedral on Hallet Peak is perfect.

1. Easy hike in.

2. Plenty of pictures on mp.com of the start for easy routefinding.

3. Ability to bail and scramble down after pitch 4, or finish with 2-3 more pitches of easy climbing, then rap east off the ridge and scramble down.

Hallet's Chimney is a good beginning alpine route too.
Do it early enough in the season and it'll be 'full' conditions.
Take ice gear if you do it then!

I've done most of the routes on your list, and I'm not sure your "training" routes are actually easier than your targets.

I would recommend Petit Grepon as an easier/less committing alpine climb over the North Face of Lone Eagle. Yes, Lone Eagle is only 5.7 and really there are only 2 technical pitches close to that difficulty and Petit is 5.8, but Lone Eagle is far more committing.

You can easily do Petit in a day, door to door from Boulder. The trail to get there is obvious, and once you are on the route, it is very obvious where to go (especially since it is usually crowded). When you get to the crux pitch, you are practically sport climbing there is so much fixed gear. If the weather moves in, or you get in trouble, you can traverse right ever other pitch to get to the rap anchors and bail. Worst case scenario, you would need to leave one anchor to rap over to the standard rappel route.
Also, if you get in trouble, there tends to be many people around, and once you get to the ground, you are very close to a well traveled park trail.

Lone Eagle, on the other hand, although technically easier, is far more committing. Route finding isn't super difficult, but it is not nearly as obvious as Petit, with a couple of traverses that you need to know to take. Also, it really cannot be done in a day, car to car, unless you are very hardcore. That necessitates hiking in with full backpacking gear, camping, and then climbing, which is much more tiring. If you do need to bail before the summit, you need to establish all of your own anchors as there are no bail anchors on that side. Even after making your anchors, you need to be careful since much of the north face isn't very steep, and the rope could easily get caught while trying to rappel. Once at the summit, the descent isn't obvious, and it is long and tiring after a long day of climbing. If you go early in the season, the descent can be scarier than the climb, since it has much more ice and snow.

So, I guess my point is I wouldn't worry too much about the grading of a pitch or two if it is within your ability, and be more concerned about the overall scope of the climb for alpine. People have suggested most of what I would suggest. I would say go to Eldo/Lumpy/South Platte and practice efficient trad climbing there. Doing the more obscure flatirons is also good.. with less chalk, route finding is more interesting. Of course, on the east faces of most of the flatirons, it doesn't really mean much to be "on route."

The Aprons on Evans are a bit run out if 5.7 isn't cruiser for you. Good routes, but something to be aware of.