Helmets

I've been climbing with a Petzl helmet for a number of years, and I'm going to replace it. I'd like to purchase a new lid before an upcoming pre holiday ice climbing trip, so that does not leave me much time for try and buy. That, and not many outdoor shops in my area. So, I'd like to hear opinions from others on thier preferences like fit, feel, function and quality. Thanks.

Petal Elios. Light, comfortable, sit right on my head, compatible with visor for ice. Would buy another in a heartbeat.

I'm currently in new helmet search mode as well. My requirements for this new helmet are as follows:

• Hard shell outer - for falling rock/ice protecting
• EPS/foam inner protection - for me falling and slamming my head against the wall
• Maximum coverage - so I can benefit from the above two
• EPS/foam on back and sides - " "

Those last two narrow the field down A LOT - to just two helmets, in fact: the Grivel Salamander, and the Metolius Safe Tech. So I've ordered them and will see which fits me best. I also want to see if the ABS shell on the Metolius is thick enough to handle the Petzl visor attachement for ice climbing.

Currently I'm using a Petzl Elios, which is a nice low profile helmet, but the coverage on the back and sides is minimal on me, and there is no EPS/foam on the sides or back either.

There have been TONS of threads on this before, so I'm not going to rehash the whole thing.

I think that my perfect next helmet would have all the qualities that Erik W is looking for. So, it sounds like those two who be a good place to start.

Personally, from what I've seen in recreational and institutional settings, the petzl ecrin rock is the most flexibly sized and most durable helmet out there. I've climbed in mine for years, but it's getting old. Also, I'm wanting some foam and lizard brain protection, so I'm still looking for something else.

Evan

I have a BD Tracer and older Half-Dome.

Foam helmets are light and offer great protection on leader falls. The Tracer is certainy light, and the fit is secure, but comfort is lacking. The dial adjustment for head size and the straps are both awkward. I don't use it much anymore.

The Half-Dome is heavier, but only by an ounce or two. The fabric and velcro adjustment is much harder to use than the newer dial type, but far more comfy. I think the new Half-Dome has the dial, so I can't reccommend it.

The Elios looks very nice. I've tried them on and comfort is excellent. Weight is good too, although the Meteor is certainly lighter and fits just as well.

However, for some additional weight, the Altios is very versatile. My partner has one and it's excellent. It's highly adjustable and configurable, withouth being clunky or awkward. It's geared towards ice and alpine use, which sounds like your bag. I'd check it out for sure.

There's one other helmet I like but don't have field experience with - the Mammut Skywalker. Looks very nice.

It is all about trade off. If you want a thick hardshell to add durability, it will up the weight. If you want light, you don't get a lot of durability.

A lot of helmets are getting more bicycle like. Keep in mind that most of them are tested by the standard of drop something on top of it ala a rock to qualify for their rock climbing standards.

I like the Petzl meteor 3. It is closer to a bicycle helmet than a lot of others, light and adjusts easily. It won't last ten years, but you should replace your helmet more frequently than that (like after a hard shot as with a bike helmet - don't be a cheap ass with your brain). Some of the BD ones aren't bad, but they look a bit goofier (splitting hairs I know).

PT

I had the halfdome, and somehow on my last trip the foam split. Not quite sure how that happened, but I could see how tossing my pack around could do it. Have the Petzl Elios now and dig it. Very similar to the halfdome but a little more comfy.

The most robust and also heaviest helmets made by Petzl are the Ecrin Roc and the Vertex Vent (with openings) and the Vertex Best (without openings). All three have a polycarbonate shell while most other helmets are made of other materials, mostly ABS. Also the mentioned helmets don't have a polystyrene foam inserts which can cause problems with time. The drawback is the weight as the Ecrin Roc (used a lot for Search & Rescue, Intervention, Caving and Rope Acces Work) weights 445 grams which is about 1 lb; the Vertex are a few grams heavier and of a much more industrial-like style, something many won't like. The adjustement possibilities are nice and those are IMO the best helmets available for those who want an extremely robust product. The weight can be an issue though some don't notice it much.

Ultralight helmets like the Petzl Meteor III at 235 grams (about 1/2 lb) tend to be somewhat fragile.

The mid-way compromise could be a Petzl Altios or Elios.

I only mentioned Petzl helmets because I know other helmets less. I'd highly recommend to check in a store if a specific helmet suits you or not. I would focus more on comfort than weight alone. Don't rely on head circumference indications, they're not a very reliable indication.
Take the time to adjust the helmet correctly when trying it, check the notice as in some cases there are non obvious or even hidden adjustments.
Also some helmets are easier to clean than others and some even have replacable interior garnitures (not sure about the English word, sorry).

Basically I'd say that you've 3 choices:
1) An ultrarobust relatively heavy well-proven helmet with great adjustment possibilities, no-thrills functionality.
2) A classic all-round helmet.
3) An ultralight relatively fragile helmet if weight is absolutely critical.

I'd suggest to avoid dark colors, especially black. Well visible colors can be an advantage, I once dropped a red Vertex (not while climbing) and was glad it was red as I wouldn't have found it if in some other colors.

The brand is not really critical though some seem to have more quality issues than others. Check the UIAA / CE approvals (the latter is mandatory in Europe).
There are a couple of products between the Ecrin Roc or Vertex built like a tank and the typically lighter helmets but with those I haven't enough hands-on experience myself.

Overall most important to try a helmet before deciding. Descriptions don't tell you if a helmet fits your head or not and if you like its ergonomy or not.