Mountain Project Logo

Sunny multipitch routes?

Original Post
earl mcalister · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 468

I will be in Red Rox late December through early January and am looking for recommendations for sunny multipitch routes. Am climbing 5.7 to 11+ but I rank quality much higher than grade. Don't know if it matters but I have the Supertopo and Swain guide books. Thanks, Earl.

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360

http://mountainproject.com/v/nevada/south_facing_multi_pitch_moderates_for_winter/106340283#a_106341067

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

I have personally climbed 300+/- trad routes at RR. This list comprises my first hand knowledge of those routes.

It is organized in order from east to west, north to south. The asterisks indicate my preference regarding the better lines. From there, if you do not have knowledge of what is south facing already, you will have to click on the route itself and normally I address that in the first paragraph or for sure in the Essential Gear section below in terms of warm or cold route. Windy Peak south face, Eagle Wall, upper Solor Slab wall and north Brownstone Wall are the warmest multi-pitch lines, however at times, good temps that time of year allow us to get on anything at RR. Cheers and good luck with your trip.

Travis Spaulding · · Las Vegas, NV. · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 30

That's a great list Dow, thanks for sharing!

Also as a side note, there have been 2 guides published since Swain's. The latest color version is pretty nice.

Hope you have a great time here on your trip!

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

I've heard this route is sweet and in the sun.

mountainproject.com/v/nevad…

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,313
Travis Spaulding wrote:Also as a side note, there have been 2 guides published since Swain's. The latest color version is pretty nice.

That would be Jerry Handren's guide, one of the most comprehensive guide books around.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,743

Brownstone Wall! Do Armatron and top it out. I agree with the Handren book being the best. Go get it.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
TomCaldwell wrote:Brownstone Wall! Do Armatron and top it out. I agree with the Handren book being the best. Go get it.

Brownstone Walls offer just about the best solid varnish we have at Red Rocks. The north wall , where the winter sun is, does not go far beyond 5.9 climbing though. Although Armatron is the most popular, almost gaining classic status in terms of traffic, Requiem for a Tadpole and Sweet Thin are actually a bit more interesting in my opinion. The beauty is that a moderate team can easily do two to three routes on this wall in the same day during winter hours. The walk off brings you right back to the base of the climbs which criss cross each other a bit. The approach is quite easy by alpine standards, but guarantees you a quiet day by RR standards. The Brownstone Wall South is where the best climbing is, but winter shade makes the routes a bit chilly. Pro Choice is a nice 5.11 I have done in the winter as it is on the right side. High Anxiety is a fun 5.10 that mirrors Nightcrawler therefore is free of shade in the afternoon sun as well.

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806
John Wilder wrote: negatory, ghostrider.

bummer, so is it in the shade all day? I'd heard otherwise from a friend who climbed it. What is a good time of year for that route? Thanks in advance, it looks so good and I can't wait to get on it.

earl mcalister · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 468

Thank you for all the info. Can't wait to climb there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
Post a Reply to "Sunny multipitch routes?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.