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List of Bechler first ascents?

Original Post
David Groth · · lacosse · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 383

Just for the record books and for his daughter I am compling a list of FA's done by Rich. Any new routes or the first leads will work.

There are way to many and my Alcohol adled brain can't remember even the ones I may have belayed on!

Please add them here and I will also bring a list on Saturday.

Thanks for the help!

Dave Groth

Leo Hski · · Basalt CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 220

N on the Roof for one. I'll go through the Extremist's Guide tonight. But there were many more.

Leo Hski · · Basalt CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 220

Searching "Bechler" here on MP- some classic Rich-easque names!!

Barbarians at the Gate 5.12a Sport IL : Jackson Falls : Railroad Area
The Drifter 5.11a Sport, 65 feet IL : Jackson Falls : Railroad Area
Fecal Maneuvers In the Dark 5.12a R Trad, TR, 55 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Dead Tree Wall
Rich and Famous 5.11d TR, 40 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress
Hammer Master 5.11d Trad, TR, 50 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Doorway Rocks - Major Mass
Under the Bottle 5.11b X Trad, TR, 40 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Poison Ivy Wall
Wild at Heart 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch IL : Jackson Falls : Railroad Area
Moondust 5.10c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall
Blue Velvet 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch IL : Jackson Falls : Railroad Area
American Dream Roof 5.10d Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Bird-Foot Buttress
Alligator Wall 5.9+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone
Deustchlander Uber Alles 5.12c Trad, TR WI : Governor Dodge State Park : Deutschlander Wall
High Traverse 5.13 Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : New Sandstone Area
Kingsbury Non-Alcoholic Arete 5.12b (2) Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : New Sandstone Area
Laser Beam 5.11b Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : New Sandstone Area
Donkey On My Mind 5.12b/c Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : New Sandstone Area
Crosstown Traffic 5.12- (3) Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Two Pines Buttress
Booze Pigs 5.12b Sport, TR, 40 feet WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes
Welfare Line 5.12b TR WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pedestal Buttress
Cul de Sac Exit 5.11d R Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Moldy Buttress
Pagan Rituals 5.11d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes
Zig-zag crack 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet WI : Hillbilly Hollow : Hillbilly Routes
Ten High 5.10+ Trad, 60 feet WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
Straight No Chaser 5.11c Trad WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y Crack Wall
Laundry Chute 5.11d Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Rainy Wednesday Tower
Wobbly Dihedral 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Old Sandstone
Orgasm Direct 5.11b Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Rainy Wednesday Tower
Cosmic Cringe 5.11b Trad WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Leaning Tower/Tombstone Wal...
Peyote Blues 5.12b TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Gill's Buttress
Coup d'Etat 5.11b Trad, TR WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Prospect Point Rampart
Great White Hope 5.11a TR WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Birthday Rocks
No Stranger to the Fist 5.12d Trad, TR WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
American Beauty Crack

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 4,411

"Detox Mountain" Jackson Falls? Didn't Rich give up of the sweet nectar for a bit in order to climb this route or so the story/tile goes??

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,932

My Devil's Lake Quest: Climb all the Bechler lines in a Day. Ambitious?

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,932

L.S.D 5.11c Trad Bechler 1984

David Groth · · lacosse · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 383

Leo
Thanks! You have added a couple I missed. I will email a list around as well. We did some routes off in the quarry and some smaller areas that we might miss but will do our best.

See you Friday

Dave G

Leo Hski · · Basalt CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 220

From the Extremist's Guide (with original grades):

East Bluffs-
Cheap Swill 5.12
LSD 5.11
Cosmic Cringe/ The Complete Cringe 5.11 (now I'm in trouble with Russell again!)
Great White Hope 5.11
Orgasm Direct 5.11-

American Dream Area-
Under the Bottle 5.11-

Sandstone-
American Beauty Crack 5.8
Tarantula 5.10
Wobbly Dihedral 5.9
Kingsbury Cruise left hand finish 5.11
Laser Beam 5.10

Also he put up plenty of the harder problems at the Glencoe IL water plant- some very hard and very fine buildering.

And I will add the first ascent of the south face of the Brunswick Bowling Lanes in Deerfield IL where Rich, Dale, and I enjoyed many an icy beer after a good buildering session at Glencoe.

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs, co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

Nice list guys, I just returned from a party so my mind is shot. The only one I can think of at the moment is one east of the quarry we did...Forza Faza 5.10 (probably called something else now)
I remember when we did Donkey On My Mind (one move wonder). We worked it as a team and then one day Dale Moir brought up a pair of Fire,s (just out) they were 2 sizes too big but I tried them on and sent it first go. Prunes pulled the rope and sent it right after me ,then dale fired it too! Soon we al had Fires for the sandstone area.
I will try and think of some more first acsents that old Rich did.

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs, co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

thought of a few more ....Steak Sauce 5.12 west bluffs 1982? with myself and dale moir
crosstown traffic 5.11 east bluffs 1981?
blinded by lust 5.10 necedah (this is probably called something else by now)

David Groth · · lacosse · Joined Sep 2004 · Points: 383

We can finalize the list this weekend! Maybe repost it complete for these youngs guns to chase down.....

Alex A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 2,727

Here's a couple more,

AAA 5.12
Between the Cheeks 5.12d

DaleMoirDukeyetnotPrince · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 10

You forot:

The Vulva - DL 5.11 (the area off to the right of the hike up to the East Bluffs

As well as " Degrade my Sister" 5.12 in the same area

Have not been keeping up on the rating systems yet DL was always a sandbag area, the climbs are more like really long boulder problems super technical, no protection.

jhn payne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 46

"Emperor of The North" 5.13a "American Hand Gunner" 5.11d,"Blue Velvet" 5.11c ,"Rain Dog" 5.12b all at Jackson Falls

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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