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A small fall on Dyneema might do more than just hurt your kidneys...

Original Post
Richard Radcliffe · · Erie, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 225

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 301

Interesting.

Has anyone done experiments with a human as the weight rather than a steel weight (with a rope backup). I suspect all my fat mushing around underneath the harness act to slow the energy transfer onto the sling keeping the peak impact force much lower.

.......... · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

This Can O' Worms has been opened before... Interesting stuff for sure.

mountainproject.com/v/gener…

J.B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150
Jiles Perry wrote:This Can O' Worms has been opened before... Interesting stuff for sure. mountainproject.com/v/gener…

I was just going to say! I thought I remembered someone commenting about the receptionist in the background!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Pat Gioannini wrote:Interesting. Has anyone done experiments with a human as the weight rather than a steel weight (with a rope backup). I suspect all my fat mushing around underneath the harness act to slow the energy transfer onto the sling keeping the peak impact force much lower.

http://www.climber.co.uk/categories/articleitem.asp?item=583

camp did the test with a harness in the system ... results were somewhat different from DMM ...

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Pat, yes; you can review the drops on 2009 ITRS paper to see how a human composition compares to a rescue randy and differs to steel. It should offer you a more realistic picture of what happens.

Holden, May, & Farnham. 2009. On the Utility of Rescue Randy Mannequins in Rescue Systems Drop Testing itrsonline.org/archives/#2009

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 301
Mark Nelson wrote:Pat, yes; you can review the drops on 2009 ITRS paper to see how a human composition compares to a rescue randy and differs to steel. It should offer you a more realistic picture of what happens. Holden, May, & Farnham. 2009. On the Utility of Rescue Randy Mannequins in Rescue Systems Drop Testing itrsonline.org/archives/#2009

Thanks, this is what I was thinking would be more realistic.

CJ Coccia · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 35

i would be interested to see some test results on a system mimicking a setup similar to a roped fall onto a piece of gear connected using some sort of quick draw (or "trad" draw). how much would the rope reduce the peak forces onto the primary system/piece of gear?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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