The Stronghold

So i Just have a few questions. I have been here before, but am just wondering what most of you bring for gear? We will have four people and will most likely split up on most climbs. I also have to ask "the" question, what routes do YOU like. Also I know that they are all a lot different, but what would you say would be your average time on some of the longer climbs 6+ pitches.(yes i know every one climbs different.) and finally I have heard you can camp any where. Is there any good camping in by the sheepshead area?
Thanks for all the info.

The gear you need depends on the routes you are getting on obviously.
Like you said, everyone climbs at different speeds. If you are fast, you can do a couple routes on the Sheepshead in a day. If you are slow, one route could take you all day. Depends how good and comfortable you are with this style of climbing.
Yes, there is plenty of camping near the Sheapshead.

Peacemaker on Sheepshead. One of the best 10a's in the US.

Not relevant to the op, however, to my knowledge, the record for Sheepshead marathoning stands at 8 routes (46 pitches, approx. 6500 feet of technical climbing) in 16 hours. Just some random trivia for ya.. :)

Edit.. All were walk offs.

Hey Justin,

There is some great camping at the trail head to the Sheeps head. You can get great info from toofasttopos.com or from backcountry rockclimbing in southern Arizona. Geir from toofast has great topos on Sheeps Head. If your not from AZ don't pay to much attention to the B.S. on the site. To many egos out there :( If you havn't been out there before I would highly recommend Ewephoria and Absinthe of Mallet.

Good Times

Joe

I agree with pretty much everything the above posters have mentioned. Ewephoria, Absinthe of Mallet, Peacemaker, etc... are all excellent climbs.

I just wanted to add that there are NO TOILETS or water outside of the East Stronghold campground. Please be courteous and bury your poop very deep and pack out or burn your TP. Actually, WAG bags are the ideal, but at a minimum don't leave TP or bury it. I spend my mornings cleaning up the leftover TP and garbage that people leave at the Sheepshead spots. Some spots are literally latrines, so keep that in mind when you pitch your tent. Ask yourself, "is this a good spot to poop" and if it is I'd relocate.

I don't mean to preach, just inform.

I think to get the total cochise experience you need to do a route on the Rockfellows - Days of Future Passed is a nice one. I would also recommend doing What's My Line as it is one of the most beautiful climbs around. Another Cochise not to miss is Warpaint.

As far as Sheepshead goes don't be fooled by the grades. Absinthe of Mallet is far more serious (and interesting IMO) than peacemaker. Peacemaker is definitely worth doing though,it is just a different experience.

Muttonhead also has some good climbs on it (right next to sheepshead).

Timewise I would say 5 to 6 hours is typical on Absinthe, less for peacemaker. I think Muttonhead climbs go pretty quickly and if you are feeling good you could easily do a couple in a day. Same with some of the Sheepshead climbs like Ewephoria and maybe Peacemaker.

Camping wise, there is plenty in the Sheepshead area. It is a 30-45 min hike to Sheepshead from the camping area. Sheepshead is the closest area to the highway. As you continue along the dirt road towards the Warpaint parking there are plenty more places to camp. Just remember to pack your crap out and have fun

I agree with Mike-get up to the Rockfellows, or at least all the way in on the west side if you can. "Days" is great but spicy, and Endgame is a good, better-protected alternative. Afterward, be sure to do the Inner Passage if you have time!

Wasteland is really good if you're on the east side, and Night Stalker is an excellent pitch to end the day.

Agree with all the Sheepshead recommendations, and would add that Mystery of the Desert on Muttonhead is a great route that goes pretty fast.