Recommendations for Gunks 5.5's?

Maria (5.6) up to the GT ledge would be good. if you arn't feeling up to pulling the cool roof you can rap from there. There is abundent pro on the second pitch. I can't speak for the first as i've only done Maria Direct.

first pitch of maria isn't bad. it takes plenty of gear going across.. will have a bit more drag if you protect the shared bit with frogs head before the traverse starts. but a new 5.5 leader probably wouldn't want to do the normal solo up to that point.

The traverse sucks (and I love traverses!) and P2 is not very memorable, the only thing you'd do Maria for is the P3 roof, IMHO. One of few roofs in the Gunks that doesn't rely on jugs but on a solid hand jam.

dolgio wrote:The traverse sucks (and I love traverses!) and P2 is not very memorable, the only thing you'd do Maria for is the P3 roof, IMHO. One of few roofs in the Gunks that doesn't rely on jugs but on a solid hand jam.

i disagree.. why does the traverse suck? it's moderate climbing with gear at your face basically whenever you want it. Pitch 2 is fun vert,steepish jughauling.

PUZMAN: Did you get out there yet and tick off some more classics?

we might be working on those classics if the temps aren't warm enough for the harder stuff ;)

YES!

AntinJ wrote:PUZMAN: Did you get out there yet and tick off some more classics?

Yeah, did Shockley's Without (a 5.5 PG in Williams). I may play hookey next week if a friend of mine can get out of work. Next up might be Jackie or Dennis...

Puzman wrote: Yeah, did Shockley's Without (a 5.5 PG in Williams). I may play hookey next week if a friend of mine can get out of work. Next up might be Jackie or Dennis...

I led Asphodel recently and thought it was a nice 5.5 with plenty of gear and great stances to place it from. I did not think it was hard for a 5, and I am just starting to lead 5's. There's one move that is a bit exposed, but has solid hands and feet. Best with doubles, though, for the rap. I was told the intermediate rap station is not very nice. My partner's doubles made for easy sailing to the ground in one rap, so I didn't verify that.

I'm so excited to check this place out. I've been reading all the threads on gear suggestions (I haven't used my pink and red tricams for years). Any suggestions for the best moderates that may be less crowded for first time Arizona visitor coming to Gunks in late August. I hate to wait in line. Feels like I'm climbing in an outdoor gym waiting for popular moderates at Red Rocks and Tahquitz sometimes on the weekends. I'll obviously try to hit the easier Gray Dick 3 stars like Gelsa, Horseman, etc on at 7 am on first few days and then High E and Shockley's, Madamm G, and maybe even Limelight on last few days if I'm up to it after I really understand the Gunks sandbag rating factor. No need to repeat all the great suggestions in the thread already listed. Any under rated or less popular quality routes or suggestions to avoid the crowds of people like me that want to tick off the three star classics. I'm comfortable leading up to most 5.7 trad at other areas as long as there are no R or X runouts. If you're familiar with other areas I'm looking for Gunks routes similar in difficulty to Cat in the hat, Physical Graffiti, Birdland (Red Rocks), Left Ski Track (the original YDS 5.6), Fote Hog (Joshua Tree) or Holdless Horror (Tuoulumne). I've mostly climbed on granite slabs, friction, and vertical cracks/spitters which I know is not Gunks type climbing with horizontals, roofs, traverses, and vertical exposure with jugs. I'm also climbing with my girlfriend who has followed the routes listed above but doesn't like scary traverses (I'm not bringing half/double ropes on the plane). If anyone is willing to show us around the first day (route finding, raps, walk offs, etc). Speaking of raps and linking pitches is there any advantage to a 70 m over a 60 m rope? I'll buy the first few rounds afterwards at Bacchus or other local place of your choosing (any beta on cheap locals Gunks food and hotel suggestions appreciated). I'm planning on climbing Aug 27-29/30. Thanks for taking the time to read this exhaustive post. Final question, do I have to lead Shockley's naked? I loved reading about Dick Willaims and the Vulgarians v the Appies in Gray Dick. Reminds me of John Long and the Stonemasters while they were taking over Tahquitz and the Yosemite.

Another plug for Rhododendron. Good climb and on the easy end of 5.6, in my opinion.

Asphodel is a good 5.5 with some good moves on a cool feature.

Don't miss out on Andrew; despite it's 5.4 rating, it is a cool route!!!!

Do I need 2 ropes for rapping Asphodel?

Walk over to Madam G's and rap with two ropes. Might involve a little downscramble onto the top of the buttress. See the description for the area - mountainproject.com/v/f-the…

William Nelson wrote:Any under rated or less popular quality routes or suggestions to avoid the crowds of people like me that want to tick off the three star classics.

Moonlight and Miss Bailey are perhaps the most overlooked 3-star climbs in the Gunks.

William Nelson wrote: Speaking of raps and linking pitches is there any advantage to a 70 m over a 60 m rope? I'll buy the first few rounds afterwards at Bacchus or other local place of your choosing (any beta on cheap locals Gunks food and hotel suggestions appreciated).

70M is a must if you want to link up Son of Easy O, done that way is the best moderate pitch in the Gunks, IMHO.

Can I get a raincheck for a drink in Bacchus? Miss that place!

William Nelson wrote:Do I need 2 ropes for rapping Asphodel?

No, but the second rap station is utter crud. If you have a 70m you can rap asphodel without needing the second station (70m reaches).

Larry suggested rapping Madame G's; you can do that with one 60m rope. A 70m cord isn't needed unless you're into bizarre linkups or off-beat raps, neither of which you'll be doing.

As for Shockley's naked...you did say your g/f is with you. ;-)

If you are climbing mid-week you'll be able to get on nearly any classic with minimal waiting.

Another fun link-up is P1 of Andrew to P3 of Hans Puss. That last pitch is fun, with some thoughtful moves for 5.5. Head left at the top and rap down Arrow.

Any of the 5.4s.

Dennis P1 is not a good choice for people much shorter than 5ft6in.

Maria P1+P2 without P3 is nice. Traverse on P1 (if correctly take it low enough) is well-protected with cams and not that difficult anyway. The move up into the traverse is delicate (but can be well-protected for the follower).
One guidebook rates P2 as 6+ so I guess some people find it hard. But to me it felt like 5.
P3 is a great section of rock, but the crux move is way harder than anything on P1 or P2.

Ken

+1 for Miss Bailey's. Love that route.
Hans's Puss, Wrist, V3, Madame G.