Mountain Project Logo

info on sprinville canyon

Original Post
Tanner Wise · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 30

I pass springville canyon almost everyday and wonder if there are any sweet multi-pitch sport routes or any sport routes for that matter. I was told there were by someone at mountain works but I need more info ie. grades, area, access. if you have any info please share.
thanks

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Maybe talk to Darren at Mountainworks. Are you looking at the Three Sisters Peaks? I too have looked at those big north facing walls.

Christian "crisco" Burrell · · PG, Utah · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,815

There is at least one confirmed line on the far right side. A single pitch line established by Darren K a few years back. I think he said it was 5.11? Tristan and I have done several close up reconnaissance hikes only to reveal that much of the wall is REALLY nasty rock!The far left side seems to hold some potential. I heard a rumor that one line was bolted here about a year ago. I have not been able to confirm this. Tristan and I are planning on some development next year. Currently Tristan is too blown out from Squaw Peak.

Darren Knezek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,744

I only put up one climb, it's on the far right side. You need a 70 meter rope to get up it. It's about 220 feet long and has about 22 bolts. It's a 5.12+. You also need another 70 meter to get back down, or you can walk off to your right.

There are a lot of other climbs in that canyon. They were all put up by Jason Desmond and Bret Crapo. I haven't done any of them, most are still not finished and would not be clean and would be quite dangerous.
I'm sure they will post here when they are finished.

Tanner Wise · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 30

cool thanks for the info everyone.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 798
Christian "crisco" Burrell wrote:...much of the wall is REALLY nasty rock!

If he said it, you can bet it's uberchoss.

Tristan Higbee · · Pocatello, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970
zoso wrote: If he said it, you can bet it's uberchoss.

Seriously. It's bad rock.

I started bolting a route on one of the taller spires in the canyon a couple years ago, got 2/3 the way up it, didn't want to keep soloing the thing, couldn't find anyone else to go up there with me, and bailed. I'll go back one of these days...

I talked to Bret last year about his routes up there and he was super excited about them. I remember him talking about a two pitch 5.7 and some really cool .10s and .11s. They had bolted a ton of stuff at the time and had yet to redpoint most of it.

LOTS of rock in that canyon...

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,115

That wall looks so inspiring and there are all those funky features on the little towers in there. But usually those funky features mean that the rock is also funky. Glad to hear someone tried but like Darren says, I'd imagine cleaning that stuff is brutal.
Pedersen says that approach sucks Real Hard.

Christian Knight · · Provo, UT · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 465

Climbing up there is actually quite fun. The rock is really awful for the most part. But there are a few sections with some goods on it. There are about 20 bolted climbs up there ranging from 5.7 to 5.12 and all but one have been redpointed. The hike is steep but not too long. It usually takes about 15 minutes to get to the biggest wall on the north side that has most of the routes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
Post a Reply to "info on sprinville canyon"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.