N. Carolinians coming to Denver/Boulder. Where should we go?

Hi All!
We are coming out to your great part of the nation on June 9th through the 14th. Our first inclination is to climb in El Dorado and Boulder Canyon. We climb between 5.8-5.10 sport or toprope (5.6-5.7 trad on a good day). Any suggestions as to areas within these locales that we should climb or any super classic routes? We are all about the local traditions, so any beta about climbers hangout spots would also be greatly appreciated.
Can't wait to meet 'ya!

All the answers that you seek can be found at the Southern Sun in Boulder.

I'm not an Eldo expert, but Calypso (5.6) on Wind Tower, and the Bastille Crack (5.7) immediately come to mind. I would also suggest going up to Rocky Mountain National Park (allow some time to acclimatize) and climbing at Lumpy Ridge...Osiris, on The Book is a fun 5.7. I wouldn't waste my time in BoCan if I were you.

At that level I would also recommend Wind Ridge in Eldo, great route that has 1 move of 5.8 and the rest being 5.6 or so. Maybe Swanson's Arete in Eldo as well. If you head up to the park be sure and check out White Whale on the Book in Lumpy along with Osiris already mentioned. You won't be disappointed.

Cruise the First Flatiron. Each time I climb it I am more impressed. Casual climbing for 1000 feet with a view to boot. An adventurous long climb, it rivals the Mummy or the Daddy down there in the Linville Gorge. Have fun.

Linville Gorge!

The first flatiron is a good addition to the great suggestions so far.

Edit looks like I was too slow!

Also take a look here mountainproject.com/scripts…

June is a great time of year for Devil's Head mountainproject.com/v/color…. There are a bunch of new sport climbs in your range that were put up within the last year but are not listed on this site yet. Many of the new routes will be in the new guide which should be out just in time for your trip.
Definitely check out Lumpy Ridge. I recommend Batman and Robin (5.6) on Batman Pinnacle mountainproject.com/v/color… and White Whale on the Left Book mountainproject.com/v/color…. Hiatus is good to mountainproject.com/v/color…
Have fun!

Batman and Robin would be a good choice but I'm pretty sure they are closed for raptor nesting...unless it hasn't started yet. Make sure you check 1st.

biscuits wrote:Batman and Robin would be a good choice but I'm pretty sure they are closed for raptor nesting...unless it hasn't started yet. Make sure you check 1st.

Good call. Batman Pinnacle is normally closed for raptor nesting every spring. I can't remember if it reopens in June or July, so check first. There are signs at the trail head to tell what is closed.

+1 on Devils Head, although it is not very close to Boulder. We have an entire valley filled with sport routes in your range, a panoramic view of the South Platte and Pikes Peak and several gorgeous aspen groves.

But I need to mention a emerging huge annoyance out here that no one is really talking about (denial maybe?). We seem to be stuck in a changing weather pattern with waves of cold pacific air hitting frequently. It happened last year too, and even into mid-July we got rained on more times than not. Bring some rain gear on your outings, mountain rain is very cold.

Thanks everyone for your input, I really appreciate it. Devils Head definitely looks interesting. What was the new guidebook that one of you mentioned? We've ordered the Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Wolverine Press because I know the quality of their guides. I'm not sure though if it includes Devils Head

Katya wrote:Thanks everyone for your input, I really appreciate it. Devils Head definitely looks interesting. What was the new guidebook that one of you mentioned? We've ordered the Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Wolverine Press because I know the quality of their guides. I'm not sure though if it includes Devils Head

For the most part, I would say skip Boulder Canyon. The Canyon has some OK sport routes if you want to get in some quick climbing, BUT it isn't anything special and I would never come across the country for that. There are good sport areas in CO like Rifle and Shelf, but Boulder is better for trad climbing. My recommendations (I'm including up to 5.8 trad climbs):

Lumpy Ridge:
Melvin's Wheel (5.8)
Pear Buttress (5.8)
Kor's Flake (5.7)
White Whale (5.7)

Eldo:
Long John Wall (5.8)
Gambit (5.8)
Rewritten (5.7)
The Bastille Crack (5.7)

The Flatirons: (the most recognizable thing in Boulder... you have to climb a Flatiron if you come here ;) )
East Face of Seal Rock (5.4, easy classic)
Fandango(1st Flatiron, I prefer this to East Face Direct)(5.5)
North Face of the Maiden (5.6, one of the most spectacular rappels around)

If you do go to Boulder Canyon, skip the bolt clipping, and go to some of the more classic areas. I suggest Cob Rock. Empor (5.7+) is a great route... the rock is right next to the road, so it gets pretty buys on weekends.

If you do want to clip bolts, I would say skip Boulder Canyon and either go to the Monastery in Big Thompson Canyon (about 1.5 hours from Boulder) or Jurassic Park (about an hour away). Both of these locations have amazing scenery, with views of the snow capped peaks as you climb. Jurassic Park has an easier approach and I think the climbing is more enjoyable at the lower grades... there isn't much there, but more than enough for a day. The Monastery is well known for the harder sport climbs put in by TC, but there are a ton of slabby 5.7-5.8's on the outer gates.

And if you do want to clip bolts in Boulder Canyon in the 5.9-5.10 range, I would say Avalon is probably your best destination. Another option with lots of climbs in that range would be the Canal Zone down in Clear Creak Canyon just outside of Golden (30 minutes from Boulder).

Your priorities should be:

Direct East Face of the First Flatiron: As others have mentioned, this is a truly incredible long moderate with excellent views and classic climbing.

Eldo. Get Levin's new guide book (it's one of the nicest guidebooks ever), and do anything with some stars. Eldo is amazing.

(If you come to Boulder, you have to climb at Eldo and the Flatirons)

Lumpy. Amazing as well with tons of moderate classics.

While Boulder Canyon is fun, it's just not in the same league as the above mentioned locations. Devil's Head is really cool, but a little far from Boulder.

If you go sport climbing, go to the Monastery.

Have fun!

kubes wrote: Eldo. Get Levin's new guide book (it's one of the nicest guidebooks ever), and do anything with some stars. Eldo is amazing. (If you come to Boulder, you have to climb at Eldo and the Flatirons)

Swanson's Arete and/or Icarus - the view from the top is excellent!

Doesn't seem fair for Boulder Canyon to get slagged because of the sport climbing scene. Trad routes like Country Club, Athlete's Feat, Cosmosis, etc, etc. Admittedly these are harder than what the poster is asking about, but there are lots of stellar trad moderates.

Katya wrote:Thanks everyone for your input, I really appreciate it. Devils Head definitely looks interesting. What was the new guidebook that one of you mentioned? We've ordered the Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Wolverine Press because I know the quality of their guides. I'm not sure though if it includes Devils Head

I've been told the new guide book should be in stores by the end of this month. It's probably best to pick it up when you get out here.
Also, I want to repeat what everyone else has said about Boulder Canyon; there is better climbing elsewhere. BoCan is not worth traveling across country for. Flatirons and Eldo are worth it though.
For moderate sport routes, Devil's Head, Monastery and Jurassic Park are all good suggestions. Shelf is a little on the hot side in June and Rifle might be a little more difficult than you are looking for. You'd probably enjoy Clear Creek Canyon, but I don't think this is worth driving across the country for either.