Petzl Reverso3

mschlocker wrote: I hate how much friction is in my ATC guide in autoblock mode.

How thick was the rope?

mschlocker wrote: Also, you can (try to) lower with a 'biner with the guide, just like the Reverso3. I tried this using my Guide and I couldn't get enough leverage to lower so the method is suspect for me.

The eyelet of the Reverso 3 is significantly wider than the Guide's. I found that you need the right biner for proper operation. Specifically, a large keylock HMS is what works best with the Reverso 3 for me.

FYI, a couple of weeks after my last post I tried the Reverso3 and the ATC guide again SIDE BY SIDE ON THE SAME ROPE - another Sterling rope, a 10.1mm - it's just this rope is a little newer than the one I had first belayed with which was comparable.
Huge difference! The Reverso3 belayed the second with ease and I rapped on it fine and felt very little difference between it and the ATC Guide. I've also belayed with it using my Sterling doubles and of course it is effortless with those. So I am happy again and will continue to use the Reverso3 but carry other devices if I think I will be using someone else's rope that is thicker or older.

To get the leverage to lower a second with either I run a sling (girthed through the R3, permanent cord in the ATC) from the device, up to a biner in the master point and back down to my harness. To lower just sit back and the redirect will lever the device into lower (KEEP A HAND ON THE BRAKE!!) to lock 'em back up just sit forward again (and remember to unhitch this setup once the 2nd is good).

R3 is pretty cool - I like the spun 90 degeree hanger hole. Waaaaaaay lighter than ATC. Still sucks with a fat rope... super duper with 9.4 - 10.

Kong makes the "Ghost". Autoblocking but w/ no release hole. Anyone used one?

brenta wrote: How thick was the rope? The eyelet of the Reverso 3 is significantly wider than the Guide's. I found that you need the right biner for proper operation. Specifically, a large keylock HMS is what works best with the Reverso 3 for me.

I have found rope thickness not to matter. The worst was a 10.0 mm rope that was worn and floppy. I have a new and slick 10.2 that works better and a 9.9 that is somewhere in between.

Proper operation for me had nothting to do with the right biner since it fit the ATC Guide release hole very well. The concept overall just didn't work out for me. Maybe I am weak but I need to use the girth hitched sling method.

mschlocker wrote: I have found rope thickness not to matter. The worst was a 10.0 mm rope that was worn and floppy. I have a new and slick 10.2 that works better and a 9.9 that is somewhere in between.

In that range of diameters, I agree that other factors may count more. I've been quite happy with ropes in the 8-9.4 mm range, and unhappy with anything above 10.2. I've had the same experience with the GiGi plate in the past.

I've been climbing with the Reverso3 for a few months now and I gotta say that I still think I like #2 better.

--Marc

Pete Elliott wrote:To get the leverage to lower a second with either I run a sling (girthed through the R3, permanent cord in the ATC) from the device, up to a biner in the master point and back down to my harness.

The petzl safety booklet specifically says not to use a sling and to lever with a keylock biner.

Personally, trying to lower with the biner is akward and I am concerned about stressing the biner with the leverage. Is there any reason not to use the sling method described by Pete?

I guess if blowing the biner being used to lever open the device is your problem, you've something else wrong.

The main concern with opening the belay-lock/auto-block device, which could be said about any of these devices, when you overpower the lock with your harness, you immediately put the load control on your grip, which may be inconsequential if the load isn't that large or at a lower terrain angle.

Recommending to have the brake hand on is fine/as required; just be aware that people aren't getting dropped because the belayer isn't holding the rope, it's because the belayer can't control the load and also can't re-apply the brake because they are sitting on it. It's just something to be aware of before you jack the system fully open.