synthetic puffy belay jacket

I'm looking for a synthetic down jacket for cold belays and other periods of low activity during alpine routes. Sleeping too.

It needs to have a hood that fits over a helmet. Light is right, and it's gotta protect against the wind (obviously).

Obvious choices:
Patagucci DAS parka: $300
Mammut Stratus: $220

One of the dudes at Neptune recommended the Mammut.

There's the mountain hardwear compressor PL($190???), but I have not tried one on and have no idea how warm/thick it is, or if it fits over a helmet.

MontBell has those really nice, really thin puffies like the UL thermawrap parka. I'm looking for something warmer than that. Their warmer jackets all seem to be down, not synthetic.

Any advice is appreciated!

http://mountainproject.com/v/climbing_gear_discussion/need_a_new_insulated_jacket__reccomendations/106671828#a_106672471

Here you go...shouldn't really need anymore info.

Colin Simon wrote:I'm looking for a synthetic down jacket

Are you looking for a synthetic insulated jacket or a down jacket? Gotta go with down, it will save/change your life.
Any big name mountaineering company will have an awesome down jacket, there are several things I would recommend tho, get one that is waterproof and has an insulated hood... You will be thankful you have it on those really cold and wet days! Also be sure you have at least like 600+ fill.

+1 on the thermawrap. its much warmer than you might think. i live in mine. fits well for slim builds too. i am a size large, and the jacket is japanese XXL. get the hooded one. besides, you can climb in it. layer accordingly.

had a DAS for a while and loved it, but too bulky to bring up on a wall and went through 3 zippers. still have it kickin around though.

when its really cold at the belay i use my Millet Down. its a freakin sleeping bag of a jacket and love it... but if its that cold, its too cold to climb. period.

now actually reading your OP, you desire somethin for alpine stuff, and when you arent movin much. so now i am switchin gears to recommend the DAS again.

I was able to find the MH Hooded Compressor on sale for $160 and I cant say enough good about it. But, if you want something warmer than the thermowrap then I wouldn't go with the compressor. The thermowrap is basically a striped down version of the compressor (read, two pockets and a hood). But don't underestimate how warm they may be. I did a significant amount of climbing this winter in the front range with my compressor and I think it faired well. Good luck searching.

I really wouldn't go with down. The only way to dry out wet gloves, socks, etc on an alpine route is in your parka or your sleeping bag. The more wet gear you jam inside your down 'anything' the wetter it gets and the deader you get. Go synthetic. "Primaloft One" (and not just generic Primaloft) is the best synth insulation on the market, period. Highest insulative value and most compressible. It is nearly as good as down, about 85% as good, if I remember correctly. I try to dry out everything as much as possible in my jacket before getting into my down bag at the end of the day.

The Mammut Stratus is what I own - got it off Sierra Trading Post for about $120 with a coupon. I looked a week or two ago and they still had it in stock. I've had it on 4 trips so far and it looks brand new, but I've never climbed in it, only used it at the belay, so take that for what it's worth. It kept me nice and comfortable on a day of ice cragging in when it was about 7 degrees with windchill at about -10 and 6" of fresh snow falling over the course of the day.

The cut is SUPER Euro so I sized up to an XL. I'm 6'2" and 180 lbs, but only have a 33" waist - I prefer a slimmer fit and usually wear a M in t-shirts. The XL allows me to throw it over my shell jacket and base layers (as it was designed to do). Of note, I actually can fit it under my shell (Stoic Bombshell Jacket, Size L) but it is a tight fit and feels a bit stiff.

Oh, and skip the DAS entirely. The cut is terrible. Really terrible. And you can get the Stratus for at least $150 less if you shop around. My one gripe with the Stratus is that the hood, while it is helmet compatible, isn't cavernous and can't wrap all the way around so you can completely bury your face inside. When it's a shitstorm outside, having a monster hood is a nice. I have a windstopper balaclava that I usually climb in when it's real cold though - so that pretty much takes care of the hood issue for me.

Down is awesome if you have a heated room to go to every night. Otherwise, synthetic is the way to go.

I use a DAS Parka. I found the cut to be quite good and it has a big hood. The older ones did have a small hood and were cut different but the newer ones are good to go. Worth the money! IMO

+1 for the DAS

I know they probably don't have the best name around here, but Eddie Bauers down jacket is inexpensive, can be had in a medium tall which fits tall slim builds and is 800 fill. It's plenty warm and has held up really well over the past two years for me. I love mine and wear it all the time. When I want something like and packable I still grab my Mont Bell but the EB does a great job. I have no complaints.

It's on sale for $60 right now.

Bottom of the page: eddiebauer.com/EB/Mens-Oute…{type%3A%22hide%22}

Edit:

Sorry, just saw the hood requirement.

Check out the Peak XV Down Jacket

Look for it on sale.

Sam Stephens wrote:I know they probably don't have the best name around here, but Eddie Bauers down jacket is inexpensive, can be had in a medium tall which fits tall slim builds and is 800 fill. It's plenty warm and has held up really well over the past two years for me. I love mine and wear it all the time. When I want something like and packable I still grab my Mont Bell but the EB does a great job. I have no complaints. It's on sale for $60 right now. Bottom of the page: eddiebauer.com/EB/Mens-Oute…{type%3A%22hide%22} Edit: Sorry, just saw the hood requirement.

Sam Stephens wrote:I know they probably don't have the best name around here, but Eddie Bauers down jacket is inexpensive, can be had in a medium tall which fits tall slim builds and is 800 fill. It's plenty warm and has held up really well over the past two years for me. I love mine and wear it all the time. When I want something like and packable I still grab my Mont Bell but the EB does a great job. I have no complaints. It's on sale for $60 right now. Bottom of the page: eddiebauer.com/EB/Mens-Oute…{type%3A%22hide%22} Edit: Sorry, just saw the hood requirement.

I have heard that EB was trying to get back to the climbing market. Do you guys use the stuff alot back east? How good is the quality on the whole?

Aaron M wrote: I have heard that EB was trying to get back to the climbing market. Do you guys use the stuff alot back east? How good is the quality on the whole?

I don't do much of anything except for day cragging and the occasional day of multi pitch. I honestly couldn't tell you how popular it is with some of the climbers on bigger missions. I kind of feel like they've gained a bad reputation as sort of a sell out but still make good stuff. That's just my opinion, YMMV.

First Ascent sale this Saturday, February 27th

Go with the DAS, Best value hands down and patagonia is a much better company then the rest that have been mentioned

as mentioned, make sure to get primaloft one with a new synthetic

I already have a down jacket... I'm looking for something synthetic so I don't die while on some alpine route.

Tried on the Mammut Stratus. Seems really warm, fits me well, with a helmet...etc.

It doesn't use primaloft. The Stratus is 31oz/877g. The DAS is 11.6oz/329g.

From mtntools: "insulation: MTI Performance (by Ajungilak) - a micro fiberous, multi-hole and conjugated hollow fiber insulator which is minimum weight, durable and highly compressible."

The thing is so warm it's pretty much a sleeping bag. But so heavy.

Yes the price up front might be a little step compared to other jackets, but the quality of Patagonia is ussally the best and if you are not statisfied ever, or if it needs to be reparied then you can replace it or have it fixed for life. Also you know that your money is going to a company that is IMO better then the others out there, That is if you care about that kinda stuff. Also if you can wait then usually you can find a better deal on the jacket,

I like a lot of Patagonia products, but man, you're really sounding like a commercial.

I'm a fan of Chouinard, but his company isn't a non-profit.

I think the 2008 DAS was 26oz, and the 2009 DAS was 11.6oz.

There doesn't seem to be a 2010 DAS :(

Can anyone confirm this?

http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Patagonia-Men-s-DAS-Parka_10088700____?cm_mmc=CSE-_-GoogleBase-_-na-_-Patagonia-Men-s-DAS-Parka&ad_id=GoogleBase

e-omc.com/catalog/products/…

I have no idea if the numbers are real.

Also, I'm finding different weights for the mammut stratus:

Sierra trading post:
sierratradingpost.com/p/205…

Neptune's:
neptunemountaineering.com/n…;prod_name=Mammut+Men's+Stratus+Hooded+Jacket&pf_id=PAAAAAJCJBLKDBEA&dept_id=3177

2lb 9 oz vs 1lb 9oz.

the das for 2010 won't come out till next winter.

Called patagucci, turns out the 2009 model using Primaloft One is in fact ~11.6 oz.

$150 + $8 for shipping:

activeendeavorsonline.com/d…

Sold.