Lifespan of an unused rope?

Does anyone know what the recommended lifespan is for a climbing rope that has never been used?

I ask because I am now the owner of two lovely Bluewater half-ropes that were manufactured in 2005 but have not yet been used (I know...shameful). So for how long can I expect these cords to be safe? Anyone know?

Oh, and they have been kept out of sunlight, away from car batteries, in their rope bag since they left the store.

Thanks,
Doug

DFrench wrote:...Bluewater half-ropes that were manufactured in 2005 but have not yet been used...

5 year old unused ropes...

I'd say probably ok for a few more years.

But, as they say, is "probably" good enough?

I'd probably personally draw the line at 10 years or so.

Airtight bag woulda been nice, too.

I seem to recall from an old Chouinard Equipment catalog that five year old unused, properly stored ropes, when subjected to the standard UIAA test (a factor two fall) broke on the first attempt. I wouldn't trust my life to them.

Indeed a valid point, David. But I assume that rope manufacturing and materials have changed significantly since the 1980s. I'm not sure if that is a fair assumption or not. Perhaps I ought to contact Bluewater directly on this one.

I'm the Adventure department at a suburban high school and have a vested interest in the lifespan of ropes. The National Cordage institute gives remarkably conservative ratings for ropes in-use: 5 years for dynamic, 10 for static, unless excessive abrasion dictates earlier retirement. So maybe those are reference points for you.

I also worked for Bill Forrest a long time ago when we did a lot of in-house testing. One day, a fellow brought in a 10-year-old rope in the same situation as yours: kept out of sunlight, in its bag, etc. He was wondering if it was safe. Bill recommended we test a 10' section of it on the dynamometer. It broke under a slow pull at 1500 lbs. The guy decided it would make a fine leash for his St. Bernard and/or tow rope.

Sounds like your looking for people to encourage you that the ropes are safe. The fact that you have any doubt at all in the rope your trusting your life to, the most important part of your safety system should probably indicate that you should retire them.

Actually my interest in this issues goes beyond whether or not I can use these particular ropes. I was hoping to just generate some discussion and maybe hear from some people that work in the business or have some first hand experience, like flynn. I just sent out an email to Bluewater so I'll be sure to post up if/when they respond.

I'll trade you for a 2 year old 70m x 10mm that is still in its bag

10 years.

David Brown wrote:I seem to recall from an old Chouinard Equipment catalog that five year old unused, properly stored ropes, when subjected to the standard UIAA test (a factor two fall) broke on the first attempt. I wouldn't trust my life to them.

I dimly recall such, but, a reference to the catalog in question would be helpful. Can't be five years, though. And, my bet is there wasn't a "standard UIAA" test back then. Dunno. I don't have a huge pile of catalogs but will look through what I have.

As far as a test run by Forest back in the day, what year? If it was in the mid-70s, then that rope tested would have been made in the mid 60's? Very different than a currently modern rope made by Bluewater, IMHO.

Ropes don't have "born on" dates or expiration dates on them. You got to know, that any rope even brand new that you buy isn't "hot off the presses". By the time its spooled, packaged, stocked, delivered, displayed, put on sale, etc, it could be anywhere from months to years old and "brand new" in the bag.

Interesting article by the UIAA on rope age:

theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil….

If folks are recommending rope be retired after five years of USE, then, an unused rope has to have more life in it.

In a bag? If it were sealed then that might limit any ozone type degradation.

My bet is the ropes are fine and you'd be good to go with them for a season or two at least, depending on how much hard use.

flynn wrote:I'm the Adventure department at a suburban high school and have a vested interest in the lifespan of ropes. The National Cordage institute gives remarkably conservative ratings for ropes in-use: 5 years for dynamic, 10 for static, unless excessive abrasion dictates earlier retirement. So maybe those are reference points for you. I also worked for Bill Forrest a long time ago when we did a lot of in-house testing. One day, a fellow brought in a 10-year-old rope in the same situation as yours: kept out of sunlight, in its bag, etc. He was wondering if it was safe. Bill recommended we test a 10' section of it on the dynamometer. It broke under a slow pull at 1500 lbs. The guy decided it would make a fine leash for his St. Bernard and/or tow rope.

That stinks cuz I keep mine unless they have coreshorts (which they don't). I'll post up if I die...

10 years.

It should say that somewhere in the product info that came with your cords.

flynn wrote:...... One day, a fellow brought in a 10-year-old rope in the same situation as yours: kept out of sunlight, in its bag, etc. He was wondering if it was safe. Bill recommended we test a 10' section of it on the dynamometer. It broke under a slow pull at 1500 lbs. The guy decided it would make a fine leash for his St. Bernard and/or tow rope.

10 feet does not take into account the overall stretch of a rope. But I don't want to die either. So thanks for testing. Anyone else have the cash to trash a new rope and get to the bottom of this? Very interesting to think about.

Steve

My ropes have "Born on Dates". On the tag-ends, every rope I've bought.

Check out the UIAA site. The ageing of ropes.

This should help you decide.

theuiaa.org/advice_techniqu…

Scott McMahon wrote: That stinks cuz I keep mine unless they have coreshorts (which they don't). I'll post up if I die...

whoa glad I saw this -haha..!

thanks DFrench for starting this thread. I found myself recently sentimental about my 1st rope... but after reading these responses I've decided a rug would be the best resting-place for 'ol smokey

Good article Sal, kinda dispells the conventional wisdom - puts me in a better mind about my older rope and makes me think the OP's ropes are probably fine.

Mike Pharris wrote:Good article Sal, kinda dispells the conventional wisdom - puts me in a better mind about my older rope and makes me think the OP's ropes are probably fine.

..any last minute offers out there for a 10yr old Roca 10.5 ~ no lead falls, no acid, no cactus, no pee - blk/yellow looks like a bumble-bee

it was "edge rated" if that'll help ~(:

kirra wrote: ..any last minute offers out there for a 10yr old Roca 10.5 ~ no lead falls, no acid, no cactus, no pee - blk/yellow looks like a bumble-bee it was "edge rated" if that'll help ~(:

Black and yellow? Go ahead and make a rug - maybe it'll really pull the room together. ;)

DFrench wrote:So for how long can I expect these cords to be safe? Anyone know? Oh, and they have been kept out of sunlight, away from car batteries, in their rope bag since they left the store. Thanks, Doug

I'd say another few years at least. They're "new" half ropes and you'll be using them together, I presume. The chances of both of them failing simultaneously have to be right near zero.
I have five year old used ropes I still feel completely comfortable using for TRing at least.

Two years ago I was the director of an local climbing club's annual climbing school. For one of the sessions we have a setup that allows students to catch an 8 foot leader fall. The "leader" is actually three 50-pound coil springs (150lbs total) that we hoist up and drop. We dropped this leader 23 consecutive times (23 students) in the roughly the same spot on the climbing rope. The rope we used was at least three years old and was a used 10.5mm rope donated by a club member.
After about 16 falls the sheath had melted through and the leader falls were now taking place on the core strands. The rope still never broke.
After seeing that (and I've seen the same thing every year during this course) I have a serious respect for the integrity of climbing ropes.

Jason Halladay wrote:I have a serious respect for the integrity of climbing ropes.

need a rope..? - this one is FULL of integrity, it didn't get *used* very much :D