Need a sturdy all day trad edging shoe

I need a sturdy all day trad edging shoe.
I'm trying to get about as far away from a slipper as I can get.
Looking for a stiffer sole and foot platformn with plenty of good rubber. Sort of an old school shoe with todays technology.
I need to keep the cost as low as possible.

Is there such a shoe out there?

TC Pro by sportiva..

Tom Hanson wrote:I need to keep the cost as low as possible.

Kevin Fox wrote:TC Pro by sportiva..

Isn't that the most expensive climbing shoe on the market?

Also not cheap but . . . check out the Acopa JBs or Legends too.

I climb in the JBs and they're great! Super stiff high tops with very sticky rubber.

Scarpa Techno. Nice and stiff, just get an all day size.

Check it out Here

What's your foot shaped like? Are you a wide-foot 5.10 wearer, or a narrow Sportiva wearer?

Because all-day means comfort, and if it's the wrong shape for you, it doesn't matter one bit that I can wear it all day.

GO

I'm looking for a stiff trad shoe, too. I have a wider foot and Morton's Toe and Evolv shoes seem to fit me well. Does anyone climb on the Pontas Lace?

I'll sell you an old pair of Mariachers!! Just kidding, but I still have a pair..poor for thin cracks, but they edge so well and can be worn all day.

Mark mentioned, the Pontas lace, I'm currently breaking in a pair of these. My pair is sized closer to performance than all day comfort. So far I am very happy with their performance, particularly with edging. Probably not as stiff a shoe as original poster, Tom, was looking for.

5.10 galileo gets my vote.

5.10 anasazi hands down in my opinion... if they happen to fit your foot that is. I started out using them just as my trad shoe, but have recently begun climbing just about everything in them.

I haven't tried the galileo, but if i recall, they are a bit stiffer than the anasazis.

Unfortunately, both shoes are >100 bucks.. keep an eye out for sales I'd say.

i liked the 5.10 vmile for all day edging. much more support for the foot but comfy and easy on/off velcro.

downside is the 5.10 rubber wears faster. ive been through 4 pairs of 5.10s this year

+1 for Scarpa Technos

If you like a wider shoe, I'd say go for the five-ten Galileos. They're similar to the Anasazi velcros, but a bit stiffer, and a bit cheaper.

Both are good performance shoes, and because they're velcro, you can take them off and put them on again at belays if your feet start getting really tired.

The best edging shoe I ever owned was the pink five-ten Anasazi laceup. May it rest in peace.

GO

Evolv has(had?) a superb approach type shoe with excellent climbing rubber, yet very comfy. It was discontinued as a new remodeling of it is out soon. It's called the Maximus, and is on their site yet in the 'closeout' section. Plenty of sizes, and only 49 bucks. I've got a pair and am stunned at how good I can climb in them, besides the comfort. Great for cracks too, due to the extensive rubber and high ankle protection.

Woodchuck ATC wrote:Evolv has(had?) a superb approach type shoe with excellent climbing rubber, yet very comfy. It was discontinued as a new remodeling of it is out soon. It's called the Maximus, and is on their site yet in the 'closeout' section. Plenty of sizes, and only 49 bucks. I've got a pair and am stunned at how good I can climb in them, besides the comfort. Great for cracks too, due to the extensive rubber and high ankle protection.

You should also try the Strykers. Really sweet.

As for a climbing shoe, I'm going to throw my vote out there for the La Sportiva Tradmaster.

I'd also go with the Technos

The Evolv Quest.

Comfy, stiff, edges well, affordable.

evolvesports.com/quest-af.htm

The sad truth Tom is that the shoe you want is not currently made. There are no board lasted shoes that I am aware of currently on the market. There are those who try to be edging shoes ( i.e. TC's, Legends, Technos) but really all those shoes need to be sized aggressively to be able to edge, which negates all day comfort.

I am sure some here will disagree, but unless you have worn Aces, Kaulkulators, Synchros, Focus, or Ballets you really don't know what a stiff all day high performance trad shoe is. Were talking planks here man!

There is no way you can compare any Anasazi(even the now extinct Mesa), Tradmaster(yea RIGHT!), or Pontas Lace (Great shoe BTW) with Synchros, Focus, or Aces when it comes to standing on small edges for a long time. If you think otherwise, send me an email and I will give you a route to test your edging abilities on. It is not a question of standing on a dime, more a question of standing on $2.00 worth.

R.I.P. to the age of Slaberius Maximus. Just suck it up and take an extra Alieve in the morning before stuffing your toes into the "shoes of the future", or haunt E-bay like the rest of us slab junkies.

I'm a pretty big fan of Red Chili's Sausalito. I'm pretty sure it's board lasted, and it's a pretty stiff shoe. It's definitely done the job for me on all day trad routes, and it's nice in the cracks. Not a real cheap shoe, but worth it enough for me to be a repeat customer.

One downside is the red feet after a hot day.

+1 on the Scarpa Techno

The fit on this shoe is amazing. Great crack shoe that can edge great!