We need your old carabiners.

As you know Jim and I have been using old biners at the anchors. Many of you have donated generously and we appreciate if. If you have some old ones laying around we could use them. My rack and draws have been scavenged to the point that I don't have enough to lead a route at the gym! Thanks for your help and support. EFR and Jimbo

This is a great way that you can contribute to the local climbing community. Eric and Jim's slick way for using old carabiners for top anchors is not only really convenient, but much safer as it eliminates the need to untie when cleaning a route. Further, it makes multi-pitch rappels go very smoothly. I've got a half-dozen or so that I can throw in to get the ball rolling.

I've got some. Can I leave them at the gym for you next week???? Just let me know and I'll get them to wherever.

Nice job.

Maybe we can take up a collection at Beanfest.

I like your thinking Brigette. Thanks

I dont have any old ones but ill try and nab a few from summit hut and bring them down to bean fest.

Wow - now that's a stand up guy! Very cool Mike!

Mike Dudley wrote:I dont have any old ones but ill try and nab a few from summit hut and bring them down to bean fest.

Kinda what I was starting to think about... All mine are still in good/usable condition.

Thanks guys.

Eric, just curious: what do you do with them? Geir's post suggests there is more to it than just clipping them into some chain.

Bobby, we use them on chains but more typically with a quick link through a bolt hanger then the biner. Most of them are used at the top of single pitch routes. But they do make multipitch climbs a breeze as you don't spend the time threading. I try to flip them over when lowering off of them so the end opposite the gate wears as well. If clipping the anchors is hard I leave one with the gate out and down so a tired, pumped leader doesn't fall off at the end trying to clip the anchors.

I'm a little surprised people don't swipe them, but plesantly so. People tend to 'collect' even worthless stuff on the principle of it if they can.

Tony B wrote:I'm a little surprised people don't swipe them, but plesantly so. People tend to 'collect' even worthless stuff on the principle of it if they can.

Most AZ climbers don't role like that. Hung draws or anchor biners are not booty. A hung biner(one) is fair game.

so climbers are lowering time and time again on someone elses "old" biner? and it is just one non-locker they are lowering off?

don't worry, they pull-test the old biners with an F350 before they hang'em.

Like Tony, I'm pleasantly surprised they remain unswiped.

If I remember to bring some down with me next time I visit my folks, I'll donate.

I probably have at least a dozen old 'biners--most are found biners, a few are ones that I dropped--that I don't use anymore if you guys want 'em (I want to keep a few to use as leaver biners). I probably won't be at Beanfest, but I could leave them at the gym or figure something else out.

stredna wrote:so climbers are lowering time and time again on someone elses "old" biner? and it is just one non-locker they are lowering off?

no, there are 2 of them, one for each anchor bolt.

Leave them at the gym if you would Charles. I will make sure I get there next week and will ask at the desk. We really appreciate the help as it keeps the cost way down and makes the whole system safer. Thanks. EFR & Jimbo

Hey Eric, I'll post here to let you know when I've dropped them off at the gym--I should get there sometime during Mon.-Wed.

Hey Eric - We nabbed a leaver biner off of P1 of Jabberwocky a few weekends ago. I can donate that to the cause. Har, har, har!

Is it against the rules to talk trash if we didn't top out the route either?