McDowell Mountains

Hey guys, Im doing some of my first trad leads out on Toms Thumb, I have a pretty good rack of Cams from .5 to 4, stoppers and slings and all that jazz. Anybody have any suggestions on what I need to bring or some crucial beta for Treiber's Deception or Garbanzo Bean?

Garbonzo Bean is tough for a first trad lead, but that rack should be fine (fun to lead on hexes too!)

Save your #4 for the finishing moves of Treiber's Deception. Or you will regret it.

Bring/borrow micro cams for the start (small nuts might work too...can't remember).

Tom's Thumb is not exactly replete with good first trad leads. May I suggest Gardener's Wall.

If I recall, a new #4 is too small for the upper part of Treiber's

Pretty sure it's not, although I do believe a 4.5 fits too--the width varies a bit up that section. I'm fairly sure I used a new 4 there when I last climbed it in late 07. Used my 5 on the wide section preceding it (cause I hate that mank bolt).

Although, I have never had a piece large enough to Protect the upper offwidth, I do recall comming close to getting a #3 to work back and low in the crack, so a #4 would most likely work and a #5 would be even better. My only protection was a set of stoppers in the horizontal ledge/crack to the left of the finish offwidth. Curious to know if they are still there, as it was impossible to get them out once placed last spring. If they are still there and intact they should be bomber. Just runout the last section. Lasts for about 10 seconds til you get the thank god holds and top out.

Great route!

If you are going to do Trieber's, make sure you runner the first two or three pieces really well, or you will suffer terrible rope drag.

I think that One for the Road on (near) Sven Slab is a great first gear lead. Hanging Gardens too.

Thanks a lot guys, i appreciate the help. Ill let you know how it all turns out.