Suggestions for a mountaineering/alpine pack

Looking for input from the community on what you use for a pack when mountaineering/alpine climbing. I am looking for more of a day use possibly short multi-day pack. Wondering a good size and features that appeal to most.

I would suggest the wild things Alpindista pack. It is large enough for multiday trips, zippes down to a day pack, has a removable foam bivy pad, and can be used as a half bivy sack if need be. Extremely versitile. Also has crampon and ice tool holders. One down side is with the new leashless i.e. black diamond tools the finger protector is pretty much too wide to fit into the ice tool holsters. They will fit but it takes some fighting to get them into. But other tools aztars etc. fit fine. Mine is a few years old so they might have fixed the problem by now though. The pack is pricy as well. It is a no frills pack built specifically for alpine climbing, the best i've used.

I actually just went through this process, so hopefully I can save you some time.
I ended up getting two packs.
One- Deuter 30+L Guide pack. Its amazingly comfortable and great for a day out.

With lots more gear, rope, full pack and gear, I went with the Osprey Variant 52.

They are both great packs and I have had a LOT of good luck with them. Easy to use, hold lots of gear. Great places for axes and crampons, etc.

I have an Alpine Lowe Alpine Attack 40. I use it mainly for a cragging pack but have taken it on yurt trip and used it for a back country snowboarding as well. My favorite features are the burly handle with scoop so when looking up your helmet does not hit the pack. A removable bivi pad, gear loops on the waist belt, rope strap, and fairly simple design. Three years of hard use and only the zipper on the top pocket is broken.

I second the Osprey Variant 52. I've been using mine now for over a year and it serves its intended purpose well. Carries much better that the Andinesta I used to own.

I finally retired my '93 Andinista, not so much that it is old, but that it carries poorly and the harness has always been painful between shoulders and neck. Besides I never found much use for the lengthwise side zippers - only extra weight that cannot be removed.

For multi-day use I just got a Gregory Makalu Pro, which holds 69L in a medium. It weighs 4lb 15oz, but with some creative pruning you can cut about 6 to 8 oz of excess webbing off.

The Osprey Variant series is so dialed. Great suspension, everything you need, no extra heavy features. 37L for day trips or 52L for lots of gear/multi-day.

The osprey variant is definitely the ticket. I have owned an Arcteryx Nozone for many years and it carries weight better than any pack I have ever worn, but they quit making it. I also have a Cold Cold World Chernobyl and it does well, but it is no match for the variant. I have used a friends variant and it is an awesome pack at an amazing price.

The variant has all of the features (plus some, including a lightweight stay) that the Chernobyl has, BUT its lighter and it carries weight SO much better. When my two packs wear out, I will surely buy a variant.

I 2nd Doug's recommendation for a Cilogear pack.

My wife bought one for me for my birthday... I think based on Doug's review. I absolutely love the pack. I've used it for a few alpine climbs with long approaches, and it's very comfortable and versatile.

It's nice to see people recommending the Variant series by Osprey, I own a 52L and love it. It's the perfect size for lugging loads of gear around at Indian Creek or for hefty loads in winter. I have also been suprised how well it strips down for lighter outings.

Cilogear - I am considering the 30L worksack for day-cragging and alpine climbing. Any thoughts? How about for ski mountaineering? I feel like owning a 40L and 52L pack is a bit too much overlap, what's in your quiver?

Second (third?) either the Osprey Variant series or Cilogear.

If you have a very long torso like me, the 30L Cilogear is just way too short (unless you don't want to use the waist belt at all). The 45L Cilogear in Large is just right for me, the 40B in M/L is marginal length-wise but I think it'll work out. I've carried a bunch of gear in to camp with the 45 and compressed it down for a technical climb and was quite pleased with its performance in both areas. It carries weight very well for a pack as light as it is. I own and have been a big fan of the Wild Things Andinista for mountaineering adventures where I need to schlepp camping gear along, but I'm pretty sure the 45L Cilogear will replace my trusty old Andinista. Haven't had a chance to use the 40B yet, but expect it to perform well based on what I've heard from Doug and others.

I also have the Variant 27 and 38 both of which I like very much. I use the 27 for 3-season one-day routes and the 38 for winter single day routes and ice climbing. Both fit my back very well (in size L) and carry an appropriate load comfortably. The Variant series does have a bunch of straps etc. that I'm not super keen on, but they're still quite light, considering.

If you want one pack for almost everything (except probably summer alpine rock or multi-day winter ascents/Denali), I'd say probably the Cilogear 45L.

Other random thoughts/info...

The one thing I wish all pack makers would incorporate is the helmet keeper system that the BD Predator packs have. VERY slick. Securely holds the helmet on the approach then literally disappears when you don't need it. Beats bungies on the pack lid by a light year.

The Andinista is now available with an attachment system that works for leashless tools.

http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/chernobyl.htm

Cold Cold World Chernobyl... There is no other pack!

Gee, I thought I was a pack hoar... OK I have a lot of packs and use most of them. With that said. The variant Series by Osprey is pretty slick. I have a 52 that I have used for a year and like. I also have Cilo Gear packs and am really happy with them. I have a 30L, 40B, 45L and 60L that I use on a regular basis. I know, way to many packs- my favorite is my 60 but only because I carry a lot of stuff for other people. When I am out on my own I tend to lean more toward the 40B. I actually have an extra 40B Large if someone wants it for a good price. I just got back from a week long climbing trip in the Winds where we covered more then 50 miles to get in and out carrying ice and rock gear. The group I was in had a 60L work sack (mine) and 45L work sack (friend) and they carried and preformed really,really well. I think I convinced the other guys 2 guys on the trip to get Cilo Packs as well. We each had only one pack so the Cilo Packs had to do everything from humping big, full loads to being a summit pack, to technical rock and ice climbing packs. They do it all. Graham, the owner of Cilo gear is really easy to work with. So yeah I like the Cilo Packs...

Thank you all for your wonderful input. I am going to try out the Variant as I have seen it locally but I would also like to try on the Cilogear pack. Is there a local store that carries this brand. I have not had success finding it online. Again thank you all for great input.

I second the Cold Cold World Chernobyl, good no frills pack that carries pretty well when loaded and pretty comfortable when climbing with it. If you want a smaller pack, go with the Chaos.

I'll second or third the Osprey Variant 37. Picked it up this summer and used it numerous times in the Tetons and Cascades. Just right for either a day trip or a night out with bivy gear. It has a stiff suspension, which I prefer.I have a long torso (6'2") and it fits perfectly.

Cilo gear packs are sweet, bomber construction. 20L work sack is perfect for alpine rock routes. Fits more stuff in it than you would think. Need more space, move up to the 30L.

Hey folks,

So as my post above mentioned, I have experience with the Cold Cold World Chernobyl, the Arcteryx Nozone, and the Osprey Variant. The Nozone carries weight like no other pack (big or small) that I have ever owned, but it is a bit heavy. The Chernobyl is lightweight, but its frame construction means that you have to pack it very well or it carries like shit (even if you pack it well, it still doesn't carry particularly well). That is where I have found the Variant to be a happy medium. It has one frame stay so that it carries well, but it is still really light.

So, I have a couple of questions for those of you who have experience with the Cilo packs AND a variant or cold cold world pack. What is the structure of the Cilo pack like? Does it have a frame stay, or is it just a plastic sheet like the cold cold world pack? I am really interested in knowing how the Cilo and Variant differ in their ability to carry weight and I am not so concerned with the features (I can figure that out by looking online).

Thanks.

Well, none of them carry weight as well as a Nozone, Bora or the Osprey backpacking packs, but they also only weigh about half of what those other packs do.

Comparing them to each other, I'd say both the Variant and Cilo packs are about equal in terms of carrying weight when comparing similar sizes - the bigger factor is which one fits you better.

The Variant 27 and Cilo 30 just have a foam pad for suspension.

The Variant 38 and Cilo 40 and 45 have a plastic framesheet with a single aluminum stay.

The Variant 52 has a tubular aluminum suspension.

One other difference that might matter is that the Variants have a dedicated sleeve for a water bladder and a hydration port for routing the drinking tube. The Cilo packs intend you to use the same "pocket" that contains the suspension components - which saves weight but is a bit of a compromise in terms of ease of use/function. [edit to remove erroneous information regarding hydration port]

Cilo packs at least the new ones have a hydration port... the 60 has a sleeve. I will have to look at the 45 to see if it does. The 40 does not but still has a port. I think the carry of the variant and cilo packs is pretty similar. The cilo packs have a larger range for what you can carry. The 40 goes from 20L to 60L with a few simple adjustments.

OK, I went and looked at my Cilo packs again and I stand corrected on the ports - sort of. They do have a hydration port... that is *way* too small to get a tube through without taking the bite valve off, especially is you use a bite valve cover. This is a huge PITA and I refuse to do it after spilling water all over other packs with similarly small ports, multiple times. They do NOT have a sleeve other than the compartment that contains the suspension (and these were Cilo packs purchased within the last couple of months).

The Variant set-up is *much* better.