All Day "Trad" Shoes...

i use 5.10 Mocs for everything from hard sport to long multi pitch...i just size them differently

Five-Ten Spire.

Jeff F. wrote:Five-Ten Spire.

Yep, +1 on the spires..Probably aren't the most technical shoe, but I can climb all day, never have had to resole and can almost walk off any climb in them. Maybe the mythos would be a step up, but that's just a guess. Great, great shoe.

Semi related, but why start my own thread.
While I haven't used the 5.10 Moccasym myself, is pretty specialized from what I've seen here. For example, it does great in parallels like Indian Creek. I've even seen a few people add rubber to the uppers for traction on both sides of a toe-down crack - mountainproject.com/v/c_mil…
Today I came across Montrail Methods, which come from the factory with rubber on the upper. I know this brand isn't as popular as others... So, has anyone tried these?
sierratradingpost.com/produ…

I'm comfy in my Mythos all day :)

-Glenn

I've had some amazing days in my TC Pro's... this week I did roadwarrior on mount evans and the pros were the shit! now there was a serious beat down that the route put on me but my feet were actually great...this shoe is a great all day shoe. can't wait to go to the desert and try them out this fall. Sportiva did a fabulous job on these.no gobies on the ankles.

I'm very disappointed in my Tradmasters. I sized them for comfort and can say they perform worse than the Enduros I have worn in the past in a similar size. The rubber is not very sticky and the midsole does not offer enough support. I have also worn a small hole in the side of the shoe above the rubber in less than a dozen days on the rock. They are warm though, which is nice for alpine excursions, and the heel is great for wide cracks.

Why do shoe companies always think they have to re-invent the wheel? If something works, and it sells maybe change the color but don't kill the shoe.

I don't think I would buy a pair of TC pros sized for comfort, as they are way too expensive for that(for me at least). I would like to try a pair sized for performance.

I have three pairs of Kaulkulators. There has never been a better all around shoe. Why La Sportiva stopped making them has always puzzled me.

I've got Bandits, and unlike the user who suggested them, I feel they are horrible for jamming, and thus not a great crack shoe. To me they are a soft sport shoe design through and through.

I just picked up a pair of TC pro's, and admittedly now have buyers remorse. Unless these things really change during their break in, I'm not feeling all that comfy in them. They felt fine when trying them on at the shop and walking around in them, but after a couple pitches in them I found the high top to be limiting motion significantly and very uncomfortable above the ankle at the edge seams and at the top of my achilles. I also have a fairly high arch and am feeling a bit of slop there as well. I'll keep my fingers crossed for big change to come as they break in.

Hey Punter,
what size are they...I think that they are the shit. I would buy another pair, I think they are that good.

kevin fox wrote:Hey Punter, what size are they...I think that they are the shit. I would buy another pair, I think they are that good.

40.5's...real snug.

I'm sitting here with them on now after doing a bunch of lacing adjustments and opening up the toe box more and it feels a bit better. I'll give them some more laps just to see if it feels any better.

what size is your street shoe? I'm usually a 43.5 and I bought a 42 in the tc's. I spent about 8 hours in them when I climbed road warrior and that really helped seal the deal. I did some cragging in them yesterday and that helped as well. talking with one of the associates at bentgate we came to the conclusion that 10 ten days of climbing should be where you truly find out if it is a go.

Allen Hill wrote:I have three pairs of Kaulkulators. There has never been a better all around shoe. Why La Sportiva stopped making them has always puzzled me.

I heard the Trad Masters were the replacement for these?

Shoes I've found to be good for all day (in order from softest to stiffest) - MocASyms (fully stretched out), Katanas (stretched), Mythos (sized comfortably), Kermits, Aces.

Favorites among these? Aces, hands down.

Gunkiemike wrote:Shoes I've found to be good for all day (in order from softest to stiffest) - MocASyms (fully stretched out), Katanas (stretched), Mythos (sized comfortably), Kermits, Aces. Favorites among these? Aces, hands down.

Yeah, no doubt. Wish I could find a pair that fit me on ebay. My buddy scored a brand spankin' new pair to replace his old ones of the exact same size.

So, I did some major adjustments in the laces and took the TC Pro's to the gym last night. MUCH better. They edge like crazy, and I even kept them on for bouldering 4x4's on the 45 wall. They handled technical footwork in the steeps like no other shoe of this nature ever has. I'm taking them out to Seneca this week to put them to the real test.

Okay, I think it's time for an update on my experience with the TC's....

After extensive lace work I was able to get a better fit going on. I took the over priced clod hoppers down to the gym for round 2. Started off hopping on some steep boulder problems. Certainly not what the shoes were designed for, but they handled incredibly well sticking smears and dime edges on a 45 degree wall. Aside from the lack of sensitivty, they almost seemed (oddly) geared toward this use. Through the rest of the night I ran laps on slabs, vert, overhangs and roofs, all with ease. Yeah yeah, who gives a flying rats ass about the gym? At the very least I was able to sweat in them a bit and get the break in process started.

Round 3: Two days at Seneca. Okay, now the real test. I wasn't pushing any major numbers, but cruising some classics instead. The shoes were notably friendly on cracks and edges, even smear fairly decent for a shoe that shouldn't. I again have sized the shoe tight for performance, but found them to be fairly comfortable now. I took them off at a couple of belays, but otherwise they stayed on most of the day.

They are definitely growing on me.

I've been using My 5.10 Moccasyms for all day trad for a long time, but they finally busted through the rand (I knew I should have sent them in for resoling earlier...but I kept putting it off).

Lately it's been my trusty 5.10 Spires.

I was given some murias recently that seemed to be a bit big and loose fitting. Resoled em and laced them down tight and they actually work really well for all day comfort and techy performance. As an added bonus I can wear em with socks on those cold days and they do about as well as anything could with socks.

Bob Packwood wrote:-1 for the Tradmasters. +1 for Mythos

Since my sport shoe is the Five Ten Anasazi, I ended up buying the Five Ten VMile, which I like since they are similar to the Anasazi. I did get them in a comfortable size. Of course, first time out on multi-pitch, I nailed my ankle bone and one of them is nicely bio-marked.

I had a pair of Boreal Ace's and yeah in 1997 they were great for trad climbing. I use them now only for offwidth as they are nice and stiff. I can't imagine anyone using shoes like that for hard trad now, however people have sent wayyyyy harder in Ace's then I ever will in any shoe.

The Evolv Bandits rock. Maybe you are sizing them too tight or are expecting a stiff shoe. I like a semi-soft shoe with a relatively open toe box. The 5.10 Mocasyms are the best for pure cracks...no laces, great feel, and if you size them correctly amazing at the Creek. However, the Bandits have a slightly similar feel, but also can edge and work better in mixed face/crack climbing. They are awesome in places like Eldo where you are constantly back and forth between face and crack. I bet Mocasyms also would be good in this regard, but I sized mine loose for the Creek.

Also you have to get a shoe that fits the shape of your foot.