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Longs via Kiener's or Notch, 7/3

Original Post
Keven · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 15

Anyone interested in doing Kiener's or Notch on July 3rd?

Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205

Keven,
I can't make the trip, however, I can give you my advice. Do the Notch Coulior and save Kiener's for another day. The Notch is much more direct, offers a variety of climbing, is steeper, requires ice screws and tools, requires different types of climbing skills, requires a light/fast approach, and is better than Kiener's Route in all levels. However, try not to spend the night up there such as what I've done multiple times.

Plus, if you're going to get up at midnight anyway and arrive at the parking lot at 300AM and start climbing Lamb's Slide no later the 600AM, and have properly hydrated yourself, then by all means, climb the Notch Coulior.

I don't know your climbing history regarding Long's Peak, however, both routes should not be taken lightly and without concern. My long time climbing/mountaineering buddy who has climbed in Alaska, China, and the Himalaya(his last venture was the summit of Manaslu)told me very 'matter of factly' that his coldest moments in the mountains were on Long's Peak while we bivied the night away in May 2000 and October 2000(no, we didn't learn the first time!). Both routes are difficult to retreat from and are committing.

That's my advice and honest opinion. I hope your adventure is safe and enjoyable .

-Shane

Patrick ODonnell · · Denver, co · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 330

Kevin,
I agree with Shane's comments.
A little beta. I soloed the Notch a week ago and the snow crossing on Broadway was unconsoldated in the early hours and slushy sliding crap the sun. So get across braodway early. Stay high. The Notch is snowed up pretty good with ice in the slot up high.
Kieners is still pretty soggy. Later in the season I have tied Kor's door or Stettners ledges up with a finish on Kieners....that's pretty cool.
If my partner bails for any reason for our Friday climb I'll check in and see if your still looking.
Cheers,
Patrick

Keven · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 15

Thank you both for the beta. Still looking for a partner.

Chris White · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 15

I will climb lamb slide with you. I am going up there with my skis for the decent. So, i would not be interested in the Notch couloir.

I also soloed Notch Couloir. Get a very early start for good snow conditions.

Chris.

sshepher Shepherd · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Keven, I would love the climb Kiener's or Notch this Friday but I'm a little hesitant to tackle such a climb with someone I haven't met or climbed with before. If you don't find a partner for Friday, would you like to get together for some cragging or something with less commitment to meet and work out some details and try to climb the Notch another time? I'm not sure I'd be able to find time to get together after work this week before Friday.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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