Snow conditions on Longs Peak!

Hello.

Thinking about heading up to Longs Peak (Key Hole route), does anyone know how the snow conditions are? Is it still necessary to bring ice axe and crampons? Or can we do it without?

Grateful for quick response..

//Tobias

http://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/road_conditions.htm#CP_JUMP_346550

climbinglife.com/current-rm…

looking at the park from lumpy ridge today things still looked quite coated in snow. i imagine that the keyhole is definitely still in technical condition - the boulderfield still had lots of snow.

Most certainly going to want ice axe and crampons

Maybe a shovel too, there only looks to be a gigantic amount of snow up there this year. These 90 degree days should make for an interesting flood season...

Conditions photo posted by Chris Sheridan on 5/14/09 above Chasm Lake on Longs.

+1 on Aaron's report from Lumpy, I was up there this past weekend. All this snow is making for a fantastic spring ski season, but the Keyhole will definitely still be in full tech conditions due to aspect and exposure. Post up some pics if you head up!

Just climbed "Martha" on Mt. Lady Washington today (5/20/09). There's snow all over the mountain still. Axe & Crampons are necessary.

This is from yesterday, and should give you an idea about the conditions. Have fun!

Thanks for all the good info.
Will post pictures if we decide to go.

Since we didn't bring all of our gear: Were in Boulder or on the way to RMNP can we rent crampons and iceaxes?

//Tobias

Tobias Gustafsson wrote:Thanks for all the good info. Will post pictures if we decide to go. Since we didn't bring all of our gear: Were in Boulder or on the way to RMNP can we rent crampons and iceaxes? //Tobias

Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder has these for rent.

Avery's picture pretty much sums it up. I was up there again Monday and Tuesday. The nighttime temperatures aren't getting very low, so the snow isn't getting a good hard freeze. East facing aspects are turning to deep slush very early in the day, so getting an early start is pretty important.

We needed snowshoes in the afternoon for travel beyond the Chasm Lake area.

I'm having a go (possibly) on the Flying Dutchman on 5/31...I'll let you know what I find!!

Woo hoo!!!

Anyone know which has more favorable conditions, Dutchman or Dreamweaver?

Probably dreamweaver. The Flying Dutchman looked like a pretty boring snow slog.

Legs Magillicutty wrote:Woo hoo!!! Anyone know which has more favorable conditions, Dutchman or Dreamweaver?

Tracy... You spoke just in time (I already had these pics in the recycle bin)! Pics aren't great, but should give you an idea (at full-size) of conditions as of yesterday.

I ran into Eli at Eldo on Saturday and I think he said that Dreamweaver was vastly snow, with some ice forming around the edges. From what I could see -- looked like snow still.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Avery! Did you need snowshoes at all yesterday?

Not on Longs but does anyone know if the cornice on the Bad Finger on Evans is still intact? The road opens Friday.

Nope, nada. After sun-up, things got soft fast -- it was barely or not freezing at night (boot-deep steps before sun-up). What Chris said is probably spot-on. If you're going beyond chasm, or after noon they'd probably be a good option.

Cheers!
Avery

Stuff is crazy soft of there. We had fun today but started really early and even then water was running all over. It needs a really good cold snap to get some more ice probably.

Hi,
we did Kiener's last Sunday. It was really full of snow and warming very fast (we started at 3:30 from longs trailhead). Last weekend night temperatures were lower so I guess now it's not a good idea anymore until temperature drop.

Valier.

proto wrote:Hi, we did Kiener's last Sunday.

Ah, so that was you we watched on Kieners Sunday. We were on the top of MLW watching a pair of climbers cross the Notch couloir off Broadway and onto Kieners around 11:30AM. We watched several avalanches come down the face just a few hundred feet north of you guys...glad to see you survived the climb!

Warm nights, climbinglife.com and the CAIC all say avalanche danger is significant. You must be a skier, Skeeter. Only skiers need to worry about avalanches...

yes, that was us. Thanks for worrying.
Upper Kiener's was actually not so much exposed since we climbed straight bellow the upper vertical rock wall, following a vague rib of mixed rock and snow, then we traversed towards the top of the Diamond as high as possible, i.e. following the base of the vertical rock wall forming the top of the East face. Broadway was of course exposed. Crossing the Notch couloir was less than 60m long with good belay before and after.
The snow was mostly unconsolidated rather re-warmed (sorry if I use weird technical terms, I'm not a native English). I guess these warm days should improve the situation (transforming the snow) if some colder weather comes back afterward. (PS to Stiles: last weekends nights were much colder, easily bellow freezing at all altitudes above 9000')
The snow on the north face was quite well "packed" by the wind but it was obviously not an accumulation zone (on the contrary actually). I guess southern faces could have fragile slabs formed by the wind then.

Stiles wrote:Only skiers need to worry about avalanches...

That has to be one of the silliest quotes I've ever read, if its serious. Joke right? Of course it was! We also watched a pair ski down the NF of Longs...looked like fun.

Here's a shot Brenta took of one of the avy's: