Accident at Rumney 4-19-09

Today at Rumney (Armed+Dangerous Area) a seasoned climber was lowered off the end of his rope by another seasoned climber. Both climber had joked regarding the length of the rope/climb prior to starting the route.

The climber fell onto his head and upper back from 12 feet, and sustained only a small head injury and some apparent nerve damage to his arms/pelvis. The climber was extricated by 15+ climbers and 10+ rescuers, never lost consciousness and it appears that he will be just fine after some rest and relaxation. This climber was lucky not only to fall from where he did , but how he did and with so many people around.

Let this be a lesson to tie a knot in the end of your rope, or at least look at the end when lowering off a climb (especially one you haven't been on many times). Also, remember no matter how long you have been climbing it is always important to practice safety to the best of your ability.

ladd do you know what route this was on? Is it possible he did both pitches of one of the two pitch routes without knowing?

Chad Laflamme wrote:Best I make some kind of obvious mark so I don't make the same mistake.

Best just heed Ladd's advice. Never just rely on a mark on your rope.

Wow glad everone will be ok. knots in the end of ropes are important always tie them on longer routes

I hope the climber makes a fast and full recovery...

I second the knot idea, especially if you've ever shortened your rope...I think I'm going to start doing that from now on...

matthewWallace wrote:s tie them on longer routes

Which ones are longer routes?

mag wrote: Which ones are longer routes?

I know sesame street is a sixty meter rap... any multi pitch route...

The new anchors for Armed and dangerous might be close with a less than 60m rope too. Metamorphosis might be longer too.

Does anyone know how long a rope they were using? The armed and dangerous/off my medication linkup is doable with 60m rope. I hope for a speedy recovery!!

Chris

Is that area a sport wall?

lucaskrajnik wrote:Is that area a sport wall?

yes

It is a good idea to ALWAYS tie a knot in the end of your rope. Even if you are doing a four bolt, 20ft route with a 70m rope. "PRACTICE MAKES PERMANENT!"

Most sport climbers I know use a rope bag. It's useful because it keeps your rope cleaner, AND there's always one end of the rope tied to the bag itself. The bag WILL jam in the ATC. It's a win-win situation. as an added bonus, the rope-bag let's you manage better the amount of climbing each end of your rope handles so you can rotate and abuse both ends at the same pace and avoid having to shorten the rope prematurely. win-win-win.

That's what i do.. and even less about the bag jamming.. but you'll notice if it's either lifting up or sliding across the ground. it's also an overhand knot that should stop.

best way, especially at rumney is to realize what cliff you are at and which ones you can get down with 60m and be really careful if you have less than that.

Ladd Raine wrote:.....The climber was extricated by 15+ climbers and 10+ rescuers, ....

im in the process of finishing up my EMT cert and we talked about how its crazy that if one person needs to be rescued the amount of time and man power it takes... a ratio of 1:25+ is not a good one and A&D wall isnt even that bad of terrain... think of a rescue of someone of cannon down that scree field... crazy....

Mike Thompson wrote: think of a rescue of someone of cannon down that scree field... crazy....

short-haul and you're done

Or from something on washington/presidentials that would be a gnar rescue

Luke Wakefield wrote: short-haul and you're done

um im not quite sure you could consider walking someone down while they have a neck brace and are strapped to a longboard ... probably in a basket and trying to keep their c-spine strait while you clammer over car sized boulders for about half a mile a "short-haul"....

Edit: see below.. i had my terms mixed up

They got someone down from the Hinterlands last year without that many people. And that is far more difficult than Main cliff trail

short haul or long line is a helicopter operation. very useful in difficult terrain, when a litter carry would be impractical. the pt is suspended by ropes underneath the helicopter assisted by one rescuer.