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What Rope?

Original Post
SaraB · · whitefish mt · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 295

I know, from searching, that ropes have been the topic of many conversations here on MP.com but I'm just hoping for a quick recommendation (I got my REI dividend and am feeling like a new rope is the ticket).
I do some sport climbing, some top roping, and a fair amount of long trad routes. I would like a good solid all around rope that is going to last longer than my Petzl Nomad (truly a disappointment). I do enjoy having a thinner 70m but most importantly, I'd just like to have a solid rope. any recommendations?
Even just links to the previous discussions that I'm having trouble locating would be appreciated.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

They are pricey but I really like Mammut ropes and have for a long time. The 10mm Galaxy is durable and easy handling. The 10.5mm Flash is way beefy but might be overkill for you.

Chris Cavallaro · · Lone Tree, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 151

I'm going with the Matterhorn. Looks like a great rope and price effective.

mountainproject.com/v/climb…

John Maguire · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 195

New England equinox is pretty solid 60m. I have two of them and it has held up to abuse well. Its also wayyy cheap at $139.

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

When i went shopping for a rope with a similar list of qualities and usages, i was lead to a Mammut 9.8 dry rope. I've been very happy with it. It seems to be holding up extrememly well, no fuzzing or signs of wear so far - started using it last summer - maybe 20 or 25 pitches of climbing so far on it.

Nathan Stokes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 440

I have a Mammut Flash (10.5 super dry) and a Sterling Marathon Pro (10.2 dry) and I definitely prefer the Sterling. I have no doubt the Flash will hold up for ever but it handles like a cable, It works well for Top rope, I haven't led on it yet. The Marathon has a much better hand if you want that extra piece of mind of having a 10.x sized rope.

Adam Berger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 20

I just picked up the 9.9 70m Glider, glad to see all the positive reviews.

Kat A · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 520

I liked my Bluewater Lightening 9.7 mm rope - reasonably durable and still handled nicely after a couple years of use. It wasn't too heavy either, so I used it for alpine in addition to sport and trad. Not a bicolor nor did it come with a middle mark. I recently purchased the Mammut Infinity 9.4 mm, 70 m, duodess but I haven't used it enough to comment on it yet.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,859

I recently purchased a BlueWater Enduro 11mm (exclusively for big wall use.)

-I almost took it to Shelf road last weekend as a joke. I think it would increase the difficulty by at least half a grade.

It's one tough rope, though: tests out at 15 factor 2's!

Chase Gee · · Wyoming/ Logan Utah · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 105

PMI spire!

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
Chase Gee wrote:PMI spire!

BAM Shackalaka!

Chase, women dig men that PMI!! (if for no other reason)

J C Wilks · · Loveland, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 310

Sterling Marathon Sport 10.4 60M. Great all around rope and holding up well after a couple of years of good use. Not the lightest rope but light for the size and durable.

Has anyone had any problems with Beal ropes? I heard of an incidence that the sheath separated from the core and bunched up. The manufacturer replaced it but the new one 'squeaks' when lowering climbers. Yeah I know it sounds funny but it's from a good source.

Lee Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 1,545

Hey Sara,

When you get your new rope will you take me climbing?

no1nprtclr · · Front range Colorado · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 55

Used Beal, PMI, Petzl, and assorted others that I cannot remember: I, doubt I would buy anything other than Mammut. I use their doubles, static, dynamic up to 11mm and feel they have the best handle from the first uncoil to retirement. Ready to buy another one actually, perhaps the 9.2 or so. Loved the 9.8 I had until I stuck my pick through it, fortunately close enough to the end I can still use it on short pitched routes. Mi dos centavos.

Juan

Side Note: My friends Petzl rope isn't too bad!

Robert 560 · · The Land of the Lost · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 570
Chase Gee wrote:PMI spire!

I'm glad you're happy with the rope.

SaraB · · whitefish mt · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 295

Anytime, Lee, anytime!
Thanks for all of the (conflicting) advice. Seems like, at the end of the day, I'll still have to make this decision on my own. Tomorrow's the big day... any last minute tips!?

Robert 560 · · The Land of the Lost · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 570
SaraB wrote:Anytime, Lee, anytime! Thanks for all of the (conflicting) advice. Seems like, at the end of the day, I'll still have to make this decision on my own. Tomorrow's the big day... any last minute tips!?

Think Bi-Color..

Chase Gee · · Wyoming/ Logan Utah · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 105
Robert 560 wrote: Think Bi-Color..

For sure.

I love that PMI Robert, handles oh-so-nicely.

philistein · · seattle · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 10

just another vote for the Edelweiss Laser:) love the weight, handling, bi-color, and it's not even fazed by a few months of J-tree abuse- including, to my chagrin, lots of grinding toprope sessions.

Greg Speer · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 55

I, too, plan to use my REI dividend and 20% off coupon to buy a new rope. I've researched this quite a bit (my first rope) and have spoken to several guides about ropes. It sounds like one can't go wrong with Mammut or Sterling. Being limited to what REI sells I have chosen the 10mm Mammut Galaxy Duodess Superdry 60 meter rope. It sounds like this is a good all around rope which I will use mainly for trad and some sport. It is a bi-pattern which I feel is an indispensable feature after climbing on friends' bi-patterns. Being able to always know where the middle of the rope is at a glance enhances safety without a doubt in my mind.

J C Wilks · · Loveland, CO · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 310
Greg Speer wrote:Being able to always know where the middle of the rope is at a glance enhances safety without a doubt in my mind.

As long as everyone involved knows if a bit of an end has been cut off! : )

I'd take the dry treatment over the duo color.

The Climbing Mag Gear Guide issue just came out.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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