Question about DMM offset stoppers

I noticed that several of the more experienced climbers I've climbed with are using the DMM offset stoppers.

The literature for these says they can be used in a flaring crack.

What is it about their geometry that allows such a placement? Or perhaps I'm not clear on their use compared to say a BD stopper like the ones I currently have on my rack. Are the offsets a vast improvement, or are they more of a specialty piece?

Any insight on these would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Glenn

The DMM offset stoppers can be great for flaring cracks, though I don't use them as frequently as the regular BD stoppers. I'd consider them more of a specialty piece, but in places like Lumpy they'd be good to have. One thing I find annoying with the DMMs is the wire tends to slide quite easily, so you frequently have to reposition the stopper before placing it. Here are a couple photos that illustrate how their shape would better fit flaring cracks.

I am assuming you are talking about the new dmm offset stoppers that are very similar to the old hb offsets. I have a set of the hbs and absolutely love them. The geometry allows for bomber placement in flaring cracks where standard gear will not fit. They are great because you dont have to carry a bunch of offset cams but still have a piece available for a flare. I have been stoked to have them in yosemite, jtree, lumpy ridge and just about everywhere in montana. well worth it!

I've been climbing with offsets for 5+ years now and definitely prefer them to standard stoppers/rocks. They open so many placement possibilities where a standard nut would simply shear out - and they easily slot into any nook a standard nut would fit as well. My first time climbing with aluminum offsets was aiding in Zion and it was a "NO WAYYYY" experience in terms of where they were able to hold despite vigorous bounce testing. Thereafter, I racked them as a supplemental set of nuts for all of my trad days and found that in most spots where I wanted to place a nut, I was reaching for the offsets. Soon I dumped the standard stoppers entirely, and I've been happy with the decision ever since - especially when I climb with a partner's rack who doesn't have them.

I haven't experienced the sliding problem Kateri mentioned, but I have the older HB version of the offsets, maybe DMM changed something about the wire thickness when they took over the design. You could always tape the cable underneath the offset to keep it in place, or superglue/epoxy it.

Buy 'em.

"One thing I find annoying with the DMMs is the wire tends to slide quite easily, so you frequently have to reposition the stopper before placing it."

Kateri, Apply a few drops of glue to the nut to seat it on to the wire for good. Saves a lot of effort and stress later on. Otherwise they're just too annoying...

Sounds like a set is in my future. :) I knew my 20% REI off coupon would find good use.

Thanks for the info. Now I'll have to learn to properly place them.

-Glenn

I recently have been climbing with a partner's set. They're awesome beause the shape allows then to get full contact on a flared seam where a standard stopper would just pull out.

The geometry differs from a standard stopper in that they taper along the transerse, meaning one side is wider that the other. Think of it as being a taper not only top to bttom but side to side.

I always thought they were a specialty piece, but now thing I would carry them on a standard free rack. Probably a set of standard stoppers and a half set(small to midsized) of the offsets.

My buddies stoppers do slide down the wire a lot, but it hasn't been a huge problem. Setting them is the same as any stopper except that they can be set in flaring cracks where it would be foolish to set a standard stopper.

Cheers
evan

I own two sets of the HB offsets. I reach for them before I reach for BD Stoppers. They are perfect in Red Rock. Not only does the unique shape on each face come in handy but the grooves cut into two sides helps a lot too.

Remember when we thought we would never be able to buy them again? They are worth every penny. Because they were so hard to find for so long, I feel the need to horde them...I love them very much. I didn't realize any of this before I started aid climbing. But it really is amazing at how superior they are compared to 'regular' nuts. Thank you DMM.

My rack, without exception is my HB offsets(now DMM's) and a set of standard nuts. With that combo you can get placements pretty much anywhere. Get a set you won't be sorry. I have heard that DMM is coming out with the Brass sizes as well.

Another thumbs up for off-sets. These things are mandatory on El Cap. Nothing else sits in a pin scar so well. I'm having a hard time finding the smaller brass set. Yosemite Mtn shop sells them but is temp out of stock. Mtn tools also.....

This is a timely thread for me as I am purchasing some offsets/nuts for aiding.

I'm a little confused by DMMs latest offerings, and I've been exclusively a BD nut user for a decade.... so, perhaps those more knowledgeable on DMM nuts can help!!

Currently, DMM seems to be offering...

• Peanuts
• Micro wallnuts
• Wallnuts
• Alloy Offset (only larger sizes?)
• Brass offsets, not available yet.

See this page at Backcountry.com and this page at DMM

So, which are the good ones everyone is talking about??? I would have thought peanuts were just smaller wallnuts, but the availability of "Micro Wallnuts" seems to mean peanuts are more specialized piece.

Andy

ps. And what about the pecans and cashews???? I wouldn't even know where to begin placing those.

• Alloy Offset (only larger sizes?)

* Brass offsets, not available yet.

You want those, brass ones are the smaller sizes and the aluminum ones are larger. HB used to make both. They quite and DMM took up the alloy ones while some individual continued making the the brass ones(sold them exclusively through the yosemite shop)... Now DMM is making the brass too and they are coming to the market in the spring.

I'd say this was the best decision DMM has ever made, and probably soon to be their hottest product! Although I am looking forward to their hexes with extendable slings.

The peenuts are like the smaller sizes of the alloy offsets. I have a couple (3-4) of them and they worked well on ZE and Artist tears (both tricky desert aid routes involving some thin nutting). I will get a set of the brass offsets when they come out as I thought they worked better for shallow placments(luckily my partner had a set) as the peenuts have a broad profile like a regular nut even though it's tapered and has the rounded corner at the bottom.

I have a set of Alloy Offsets, a set of Wallnuts, and a set of Peenuts. I like them all, but I like the Offsets best. They definitely diversify your rack more than the Wallnuts if you already have a set of BD stoppers. It is true that the nuts of the (first generation) DMM Alloy Offsets are wont to ride along the cable, and they are not the lightest protection out there, but they are worth having. As Jason said, the Peenuts are tapered, but otherwise rather conventional. I just checked DMM's site. Besides the Brass Offsets, they announce another series of bronze microwires named I.M.P.'S due out in spring or summer.

Nice find on the "IMP's". Looks like, in addition to purchasing the rights to manufacture HB's old offsets, DMM has gotten the rights to produce RP's as well. I had no idea any of these products were coming back, so good for them (and for us). I might have to pick up some of the new brass offsets when they hit the shelves to replace the mangled old ones I still tow around.

Offsets are great-got a bunch of the old HBs, and one of the Rearick (1st ascent of the Diamond) offset wood chocks-don't laugh, it tests to 3000#, & is ultra light-great for alpine. Just wanted to post regarding chock slipping on the wire: if you use glue to hold it in place, do not use quick cure epoxies, as some old studies found that they accelerate the corrosion of the wire-liquid nails or similar better.