Why NOT clip a Silent Partner to just the belay loop?

I just got a Silent Partner and it works beautifully BUT according to the manual you must clip it to two biners through both the waist and leg loops. This presents a problem because it feeds very well when in the "down" position but when you fall it is supposed to go to the "up" position by traveling along the spine of the biners (gates are facing inward toward your body) and when it tries to go up it gets caught in the middle of the spine cross-loading the biners (bad).
Thus, my solution is to clip the two biners directly to my belay loop and therefore it can go from down to up very easily. I back it up by girth-hitching a small runner to the device and clipping it to a biner that is through both the waist and leg loops.
Another solution I was thinking of was getting some Petzl OMNI biners that have a straight gate and a and a half circle spine and using those the way the manual says to.
Am I missing something? Belay Loops can take ~24Kn, correct?

On my harness I use with my silent partner I have two belay loops. I just clip it into the two belay loops with two opposing locking biners. Yates will sew a additional belay loop for you.

It's probably not as safe as clipping it into the main waistband but that's a risk I'm willing to take. It operates considerably better when connected into the belay loops than the waist band since it has a far greater range of motion and hences doens't get hung up on things.

There are also ways to prevent or minimize the chance that the biners would be cross loaded in this configuration. You can use the DMM Belay Master (?) biners or even attach the locking biners to your harness and then "tape" them in place by putting some tape on the biners to keep them from moving around as much while climbing. The tape can be used to just keep them in the correct orientation, much like the Belay Master biner does.

WeBeJammon, I forgot to say that I still use two biners to clip to my belay loop.

John, the two belay loops sounds like a good idea! Yes, it definitely works better with that range of motion, it fed like a person was actually belaying me with only a slight tug. BTW, I used a Petzl Fuse 9.4mm

Mike, I'll look into that "Belay Master" biner.

Thanks for the input!

Use large D lockers ( Petzl Am'd) and face the gates in. This way the device rides up the spines of the biners when switching orientation. Those Belay Master biners will be a complete CF if you try to attach them both to your tie in points.

If you use your belay loop and take a whipper don't be supprised if you come home with a few less teeth, this is actually the reason I believe Blanchard recommends using your tie ins. You should log on to Supertopo and ask him what he thinks.

BTW two crossloaded biners still have 14-20 kN of strength combined....anything generating that kind of force is going to take you out anyways.

Also you should test out that 9.4 in a controlled fall to get an idea of what yo expect....I am assuming that small of a rope will give you an extra 5-10 feet of fall distance. Remember that it is not only the stretch of the rope to consider but the slipping of the rope over the drum before it cinches tight. Smaller ropes generate less friction and slide more before cinching....9.7 is the smallest rope I will use with my SP because of this.

I've had a lot of success with ropes around the 10 to 10.2mm diameter. Anything thicker has too much friction and anything less too scary!

By the way kevin is right in that it does expose you to the likelihood that it might whack you in your face. With the harness I'm using I've done some "field testing" and I'm pretty sure that isn't going to happen.

There is probably no prefect system.

Yep, I tested a bunch of falls with the 9.4, worked perfectly. It didn't seem like it would hit me in the face when clipping the belay loop but I'll check it out again.