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Cheyne Lempe
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Jan 30, 2009
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Santa Fe, NM
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 150
I'm planning on taking a climbing trip this spring, early april. I've never been to Utah, and I'm trying to figure out where to go.I have single set of C4 camalots up to size 3 and nuts, along with draws. Trad no harder than 5.10d. I want to spend 1 week, and camp near the crag. Sorry if this question has already been asked. Thanks!
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Monty
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Jan 30, 2009
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Golden, CO
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 3,540
potash road if you want to belay from your car, and castle valley are both sandstone destinations where you can get a way with singles... may want to add a couple doubles route depending. little cotton wood looks great, but couldnt give you the low down since i havn't been there. if you dont mind an 8hr drive the city of rocks in southern idaho is really nice too. short approaches and great granite. weather should be good too. could easily get away with a limited rack. you do have to pay for camping though
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Adam Sanders
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Jan 30, 2009
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Nov 2008
· Points: 150
I agree that city of rocks would be a really good destination, in light of you only having singles (regardless, its worth going there at some point, cause its awesome). You can camp for free just outside on BLM land. I think the visitor center told me about it. If you go there pm me and i'll try to give you specific directions.
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tytonic
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Jan 30, 2009
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Oct 2007
· Points: 75
The Moab area has great climbing and good weather in April, but as was mentioned you are pretty much limited to Potash road with only a single rack. Little Cottonwood is a great place to climb, but can be hit or miss in April depending on the weather. It's often perfect spring climbing, but it can also be wet amd cold. A double set of cams is nice but your rack should get you up a lot of things. If you want something to double your cams I've usually found some good medium and large hex placements on most Little Cottonwood routes.
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SAL
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Jan 31, 2009
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broomdigiddy
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 790
With the rack size you have maybe utah crack is not your best shot as you may want one or more of the same size. If you dont have partners bringing gear i'd maybe look into some of the sport climbing around st george or make a trek all the way to red rocks if you are really siked on trad. you can get away with the rack you listed there and there are great long routes in the 5.6 to 5.10 range.
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Bad Sock Puppet
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Feb 2, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 510
Utah + Crack = Indian Creek
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Christian Knight
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Feb 3, 2009
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Provo, UT
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 465
There is plenty to do in the Moab area with the rack you have, plus the camping will be stellar. Try doing a bunch of towers in Arches, cragging on Potash Road, and maybe visiting the Fisher Towers. I doubt you will have a better time anywhere else that time of year.
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Jacob Dolence
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Feb 3, 2009
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Farmville, VA
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 806
If you only have a single set of cams I'd highly recommend going to Red Rocks in Nevada.
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Adam Catalano
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Feb 3, 2009
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Albany, New York
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 355
I second the Red Rocks vote. Long moderates with a variety of gear. Probably my favorite trad destination. Spring is perfect.
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Zac Robinson
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Feb 4, 2009
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 415
Assuming you are a normal individual with at least average social skills, go to the creek. It is fun. You will meet people. Bring out of state beer and You will more than triple your rack size simply by making new climbing partners. If you want to go there, then do it, if you want somewhere else, I would check out the city of rocks. On the other hand, if you are a total sociopath then just go to the creek and bother everyone down there and just try to get free TR's on everything you see set up.
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Umph!
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Feb 4, 2009
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2004
· Points: 180
I'll recommend Moab (area): Moab has everything, and if you've never been to Utah, you oughta start there - amazing sights esp. for first-timers. There are a ton of small towers and hoodoos, sport routes and short cracks. Lots of free and pay camping, river access, and again, amazing sights. Be sure to bring your MTB if you ride. Also, it's only 5 1/2 to 6 hours drive from Denver.
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