ICE CLIMBING IN AZ???????

Okay, so this one is a stretch, but I thought maybe with the vast knowledge of all the users, some might have some input to whether or not anyone has ever seen an Ice flow in AZ, or if anyone has a good idea of where one might form if conditions present itself. I figure its a large state, and we have some cold areas. There has to be some ice somewhere.

It's just a pipe dream, but if anyone has any ideas that I would appreciate it.

Just looking for some winter adventures, without having to drive to CO, or Utah.

Thanks

Yeah, Ouray is great I've been doing a week trip to the Ice Fest for the last several years. It's a lot fun. There was some ice in the gully up Browns Peak last year but not quite enough, which lead me to believe that maybe there could be some other areas.

Maybe Paradise Forks?

I have also heard rumors of Ice on Mount Lemon, in the right conditions.

Thanks Rick,

That's good stuff. Great info, glad to hear it's possible. Ice in AZ, it's hard to beat! I hope to find it someday.

The flow by the Gold Wall at the Forks formed in 91 or 2. Climbed it and did some rock climbs on the Gold Wall. Fun day.

I saw Seneca Falls form a 200' frozen waterfall in late 90s; I was rockclimbing and was very impressed. It had been cold a few days and the water is constantly dripping. Unfortunately, it's now closed to climbing.

There's rumor of a very thin beginning of an ice flow south of the Prescott/Groom Creek area, but I doubt it's going to firm up enough to climb. If I get the chance to fly over it today, I'll post up a picture.

Sweet, it looks like the weather this week could lend itself to flows at the highr elevations, if there was substantial enough sow pack left from the last storms. Fun stuff!

Jeff Brosius wrote:There's rumor of a very thin beginning of an ice flow south of the Prescott/Groom Creek area, but I doubt it's going to firm up enough to climb. If I get the chance to fly over it today, I'll post up a picture.

Flew past this today. Flowing free, very little ice formed up at all.

Just not cold enough long enough, I suspect.

Jeff (Reno)?? It's supposed to get down to around 12F tonite. I'm going tomorrow morning to check out the flow or lack thereof. Bringing the tools and crampons!

Rob

I don't know anything about ice climbing, but to add to what Rick said: Yesterday, "The Stain" on Friction Rock, Mt Lemmon was present. Not sure what the normal procedure is i.e. if the ice is thick/good enough to get screws in or whether you can use the bolts on adjoining routes or just rock climb the routes adjoining and set a toprope.

I'm sure it's still there today cause it's even colder than yesterday.

We were also wondering on the way down whether the Seven Cataracts area might create some ice climbing?

Has anyone climbed carr canyon falls in Sierra Vista? It froze up over the holidays. They had a picture of it on the local news in tucson and said if was about 300 ft tall. I drove down to look at it and it was still frozen but the bottom had broken off. It was pretty tall. It has been too long since I climbed ice to try to lead it myself.

FUNGUY wrote:Yep. I bet there is stuff on the south rim of the Grand Canyon.

When the conditions happened to be just right in the winter of 04-05 I climbed a route in the grand canyon off the bright angel trail just after the second tunnel( muchas gracious el nino). There was about 3 or 4 lines coming trough the red wall above mile and a half rest area that were huge. The lines were only in for about 4 days, then they started tumbling.

Check out the photos under Mt. Lemmon. We spent a day climbing ice last winter.

Seven Cataracts down to Willow Canyon on Mt Lemmon. This place freeze up in winter and this year there was fat ice. There is a photo in Arizona: Technical Canyoneering.

I've climbed a 600 foot ice climb on the west side of Buffalo Springs Pass which is on the N 33 west of Shiprock toward Red Valley, AZ and up and over Roof Butte/ Buffalo Springs Pass toward Lukachukai, AZ. The ice forms on the lower canyon's eastern side near the bottom of the canyon and the ice is visible from the road up about half way up the cliff band with about six hundred feet of moderate ice (WI 3/4 and a middle vertical step about fifty feet (WI 5) in a shaded gully. I've seen it form as early as October when the temps are cold and last into April, but the sun starts cresting the canyon and exposing the ice in the afternoon. One year it was in shape for about one month and then a warm snap dissolved it until next year. I've not been on it this year, but I bet it would be great as they had a lot of cold temps and some snow. I'd call the Navajo police in Chinle, AZ or Shiprock, NM to see of the past gates are open to make access easier as you could drive right to the base a park rather than doing the walk from the locked gate. Great for beginners and those learning to climb ice, place screws and so on. It raps in four 200 meter double ropes off tree threads/ runners on the left side of the formation. The pass on the Red Valley, AZ side and the Lukachukai, AZ can be closed during the winter months with locked gates as it's an unplowed road. Approach from the Lukachukai side park and walk up the paved road for about 3/4 mi, walk through the sagebrush and ravine, and up into the large red sandstone colouir/ gully. I've also heard from my mom who taught at the BIA school in Teec Nos Pos, AZ off the Hwy. 160 south of the 4 corners/ Shiprock, NM turn off that an ice hose/ frozen free standing pillar forms in a waterfall canyon above the school which she as seen/ hiked to with her kids.
Also I did a free standing pillar about 30 feet tall off the N 33 west of Shiprock, NM below Beautiful Mountain on a standstone cliff band. Go toward Sanostee, NM on the dirt road off the N 33 and drive about 4 mi up a dirt road toward a volcanic plug below the sandstone cliff band, park and hike up to the gully with an old PVC water pipe system and the ice climb will appear in the back of a small gully about 30 minutes from the car/ truck.

Last December I hiked Wrightson and saw a fairly long (150+') thin ribbon on the north side. Looked like it was climbable, though probably mixed pro. Quite a walk in before you get a look at it, well past Josaphine saddle (5mi?). With the precip the past couple of days it may have enough food if the temps are cold enough up there.

Christian wrote:I don't know anything about ice climbing, but to add to what Rick said: Yesterday, "The Stain" on Friction Rock, Mt Lemmon was present. Not sure what the normal procedure is i.e. if the ice is thick/good enough to get screws in or whether you can use the bolts on adjoining routes or just rock climb the routes adjoining and set a toprope. I'm sure it's still there today cause it's even colder than yesterday. We were also wondering on the way down whether the Seven Cataracts area might create some ice climbing?

I've seen a photo of that canyon being rapped in winter with some fat ice on it. Canyoneers were doing it.

mattso wrote: When the conditions happened to be just right in the winter of 04-05 I climbed a route in the grand canyon off the bright angel trail just after the second tunnel( muchas gracious el nino). There was about 3 or 4 lines coming trough the red wall above mile and a half rest area that were huge. The lines were only in for about 4 days, then they started tumbling.

There are 2 large flows that consitently occur on the North BA trail.
Many folks who have done the North Rim ski tour (Jacobs Lake to S Rim) have had to deal with them. I personally have seen them formed but have no idea how tall they are but would imagine them to be hundreds of feet.
When we crossed them, it was probably early March and the one was about 25ft wide (no problem, just walk across) and the other was ~ 10 ft wide and was rather wild to cross as all we had was an ice axe and about 20ft of parachute cord. Chop steps, thank goodness we had Karl Karlstrom along who just went after it. Later he tells me he's never really done any ice climbing.

I've climbed ice at Elden on rare years.

John E. Duran wrote:

I've climbed a 600 foot ice climb on the west side of Buffalo Springs Pass which is on the N 33 west of Shiprock toward Red Valley, AZ and up and over Roof Butte/ Buffalo Springs Pass toward Lukachukai, AZ.

Is this on the Navajo Nation? Is climbing permitted there?

Are you a Navajo? Just kidding. It's not a problem. It's basically common sense and reason. I've climbed on the Navajo reservation since 1976 and I've never been called down or told to leave or that it is against Tribal law. Generally people who climb or cycle ask anyone who lives near a potential climb or ride for permission or they are just polite and introduce themselves to the people in the area and let them know what they want to do. If no one is there it is not necessary to ask or get permission. Every cop that I've ever met on the reservation respects the visiting climbers or cyclist who ventures into the unknown and they support outside adventures. Once in a while an intolerant individual who is usually upset with life or other issues such as drinking will ask for you to leave. No one lives near the 600 ft. ice climb and the people of Lukachuckai are too busy living there lives to bother climbers or cyclists as it wouldn't make much sense as many non-natives work as teachers or in other health, forestry or other needed industries that help out their people. If a legal situation occurs it is usually warranted otherwise they don't bother anyone without good reason. I've never had any problems for last 30 years plus on the Navajo reservation. There are certain areas that have some access issues like Monument Valley (the Totem Pole) or Canyon de Chelly (Spider Rock). But people to this day do get permission from a local guide or other local who live near the structure. Traditionally speaking Navajo believe these areas are sacred and are off limits as it upsets the harmony or balance of life for them and they don't want people climbing or disturbing ceremonial sites where special ceremonies are performed usually by Medicine people.

Paul Davidson wrote: There are 2 large flows that consitently occur on the North BA trail. Many folks who have done the North Rim ski tour (Jacobs Lake to S Rim) have had to deal with them. I personally have seen them formed but have no idea how tall they are but would imagine them to be hundreds of feet. When we crossed them, it was probably early March and the one was about 25ft wide (no problem, just walk across) and the other was ~ 10 ft wide and was rather wild to cross as all we had was an ice axe and about 20ft of parachute cord. Chop steps, thank goodness we had Karl Karlstrom along who just went after it. Later he tells me he's never really done any ice climbing. I've climbed ice at Elden on rare years.

Paul, are you talking about the N. Kaibab or the old Bright Angel trail that branches off the N. Kaibab at Roaring springs. I know of the flows you talk about if they are on the N. Kaibab. Every time even in the winter when I have hiked through even in Feb. they where flowing trail wide. If we get a cold snap before the end of winter I will have to cruise over and check them out, Thanks Matt